Maxx VS Terminator. Long distance antenna shootout!

[Pcdeveloper2014]

OK just to be clear, these are high-quality cables and these are high-quality antennas, you've done a great job putting this package together. But my intention to start these tests, was to go unboosted first, and then boosted later. That's how I start all my antenna tests. That's OK, like I said it's not the end of the world. Apparently you designed these to be used with amps to overcome any signal loss by the long cables.
Correct Thank you Will for clearing that up, it's helpful that you came on here with information

DB , Thats correct , when you said it would not fit I KNEW what you were trying to do .yes thats what they were designed to do , if you run a long cable ( even in good quality ) there will be loss , so it is best to have the RF amps instead in the signal path .
This overcomes the losses and at the out put side of the RF amps , Silver plated hi quality coax is used ( you can connect direct to the RC with these ) this then gives the system virtually no loss on the signal path. Using the kit in Passive mode requires the silver plated cable connected to the RC unit ( matching connectors ) , as you know the output on the RC is quite low , like 15 mw or so , then in that mode we need every last mW to drive the antenna.

Nice bad boy tripod be the way.

 

[dirtybum]

Yep, when I said this will not fit 99.9% of our controllers, I wasn't aware that this was designed for amps only. That's OK with me. Even though I like to start my tests off without amps, when I'm flying out to the borders and limits of what shouldn't even be possible ,I like to use amps regardless of if I need them or not just to be sure my aircraft makes it back alive

 

[dirtybum]

Thank you for your input Will

 

[Mark The Droner]

It's hard to look at that photo and not get excited.

DB where did you get that tripod?

 

[dirtybum]

It's hard to look at that photo and not get excited.

DB where did you get that tripod?

It's nothing special, it's an old heavy duty stand from some jobsite lights. So it doesn't have a pivoting top mount like most tripods. But that's OK because with these big panels I face them one direction & don't touch them again for the flight.

 

[Mark The Droner]

So all I need is a pole, a posthole digger and some Sakrete

 

[dirtybum]

Check out post # 935
Over here to see my first test flight with the terminator extreme
This is gonna be fun! (Distance tests)
(so I don't have to write the same post twice)

 

[Pcdeveloper2014]

Check out post # 935
Over here to see my first test flight with the terminator extreme
This is gonna be fun! (Distance tests)
(so I don't have to write the same post twice)

Just a warning on that panel array i did for you , because of the size it will blow over if there are wind gusts so beware and really fix it down.

 

[dirtybum]

Just a warning on that panel array i did for you , because of the size it will blow over if there are wind gusts so beware and really fix it down.

That's a very good point, thank you. I have experienced this before and since I've been using a tripod for quite a while now. It can be very damaging. With some of these record runs lately, i've decided the only way to go 10+ miles and back is with perfectly calm weather, so I am rarely out flying in anything over 6-8 mph

 

[Pcdeveloper2014]

That's a very good point, thank you. I have experienced this before and since I've been using a tripod for quite a while now. It can be very damaging. With some of these record runs lately, i've decided the only way to go 10+ miles and back is with perfectly calm weather, so I am rarely out flying in anything over 6-8 mph

Db , since your using three amps at the same time and not a dual and a single 5.8 , it would be best to power all these off one 2000 mAH 3S lip ( RF amp protectors in line with each amp is ideal )
the power convertor module on the CTH is running off the Anker power bank to convert 5v to 12v , so its only good to run 1 dual 2 x 1 watt amp due to the current draw.
So i would advise to by pass the Anker and Power module and feed it all this way with one 2200ah mAH 3S Lipo.

When designed the system the power needed was only 2 x 1 watt , when you put this into 2 x 19 dB panels the EIRP will be huge , there is no need to run higher power . The power supply on the CTH was designed to match this , adding another 5.8 GHz RF amp is just adding in a limo ( around 1000 mAh 3S ) for that 5.8 amp.

 

[dirtybum]

Db , since your using three amps at the same time and not a dual and a single 5.8 , it would be best to power all these off one 2000 mAH 3S lip ( RF amp protectors in line with each amp is ideal )
the power convertor module on the CTH is running off the Anker power bank to convert 5v to 12v , so its only good to run 1 dual 2 x 1 watt amp due to the current draw.
So i would advise to by pass the Anker and Power module and feed it all this way with one 2200ah mAH 3S Lipo.

I don't use Anker/power module, or use the cheap blue 4600mah 12v. with a 3 way split power cable. It last for 2 flights powering (3) amps.

 

[Pcdeveloper2014]

I don't use Anker/power module, or use the cheap blue 4600mah 12v. with a 3 way split power cable. It last for 2 flights powering (3) amps.

I found the blue ones Rubbish , just use a Nanotech 2200 mAh 3s .

your EIRP would be around 38 watts running the 1 watt amps, with higher power RF amp it will be much higher like 95 watts , DONT stand in front of the antenna.( Your now dealing with high power microwave ) only power up the RF amps when the UAV has taken off and out like 200 meters or until the signal starts to drop, when flying back do the opposite , shut down the RF amp as the UAV approaches.

 

[dirtybum]

I found the blue ones Rubbish , just use a Nanotech 2200 mAh 3s .

your EIRP would be around 38 watts running the 1 watt amps, with higher power RF amp it will be much higher like 95 watts , DONT stand in front of the antenna.( Your now dealing with high power microwave ) only power up the RF amps when the UAV has taken off and out like 200 meters or until the signal starts to drop, when flying back do the opposite , shut down the RF amp as the UAV approaches.

So you're saying I'm actually not receiving the full benefit my amp can offer because of my battery power. And please explain why to turn on the amp once the a/c is a short distance away. This is an interesting subject

 

[shockwave199]

I found the blue ones Rubbish , just use a Nanotech 2200 mAh 3s .

your EIRP would be around 38 watts running the 1 watt amps, with higher power RF amp it will be much higher like 95 watts , DONT stand in front of the antenna.( Your now dealing with high power microwave ) only power up the RF amps when the UAV has taken off and out like 200 meters or until the signal starts to drop, when flying back do the opposite , shut down the RF amp as the UAV approaches.

Are you talking about the typical SunHans amps we use? I'll have two in line for the dbs itelite 02 when I install it all. I was under the assumption that the amps should be on at power up to avoid damaging anything in the remote. Turning on and off amps during flight would actually be less convenient and even a distraction, at least for me.

 

[Pcdeveloper2014]

So you're saying I'm actually not receiving the full benefit my amp can offer because of my battery power. And please explain why to turn on the amp once the a/c is a short distance away. This is an interesting subject

As long as you use a good lip the AMPs will take what they need , only th transmit amp draws the most current .

BD , think of it this way , with the bird on the ground at 12.6 miles away the receiver on the bird can still pick up the signal and function , the free space path loss has reduced it a lot but it still works. so when your standing next to it you only need to run 1 milliwatt actually to get it to respond, so you don't want to overload the receiver front end on the bird by blasting HI POWER RF at it , this can actually stuff the receiver. Its like standing 1 foot away from a person and shouting in his ears with a megaphone full on , it going to hurt!

so allowing the bird to fly away some stops this overload , and on return. your not going to loose control as there is loads of residual RF flying about around you.

 

[Pcdeveloper2014]

Are you talking about the typical SunHans amps we use? I'll have two in line for the dbs itelite 02 when I install it all. I was under the assumption that the amps should be on at power up to avoid damaging anything in the remote. Turning on and off amps during flight would actually be less convenient and even a distraction, at least for me.

You have to remember the RC is fed to an RF amp ( 50 ohm load ) this acts as a dummy load and since you only putting like 15 milliwatts at it nothing will happen to the RC controller, also when the amps is powered off , the signal path is broken , it does not transmit or receive , its not passive with power off. with small setup its not really an issue , but i have yet to see someone destroy the bird front end. Just a precaution.

 

[dirtybum]

So yes it's overkill to have it turned on from the get-go, but there is no real harm. But since you know that it's overkill you just take the precaution , and turn your amp on when the birds away from you

 

[dirtybum]

So you're saying I'm actually not receiving the full benefit my amp can offer because of my battery power. And please explain why to turn on the amp once the a/c is a short distance away. This is an interesting subject

So even though the Chinese 12 V are rubbish, it's still supplying all the power the amp needs!

 

[Mark The Droner]

Why are the blue batteries rubbish? I've used them for months with zero problems.

So in summary, it's best if we turn on the controllers, launch, and fly with the amps off even though the amps are in line between the transmitters/receivers and antennas.

And when the bird gets some distance away, we should then turn the amps on.

Right?

 

[Pcdeveloper2014]

Why are the blue batteries rubbish? I've used them for months with zero problems.

So in summary, it's best if we turn on the controllers, launch, and fly with the amps off even though the amps are in line between the transmitters/receivers and antennas.

And when the bird gets some distance away, we should then turn the amps on.

Right?

thats the best way for the Lightbridge system, you will see the signal drop off , then turn on the amps. with a test i did some time ago
i had the UAV 4km away and was pointing the antenna at the ground buy me feet with the amps on , it still did not loose signal at the uav end.