Dual Battery Mod

Yes if you run the cells through the smart cap you still get the intelligence. That's my whole point! If you connect the power straight to the main board and bypass the smart cap you lose all that and your smart battery will just show half the draw that it's looking for (causing potential problems I think).
I didn't see what I'm talking about on FPV Customs (but I may have just missed it)

This is essentially what I'm talking about here !! It's in the USA only so I have to do it myself in Canada but I'm ok with that !!

Phantom 3 Power Mod V3 save 25 % during February.


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Doing the battery mod is easy I have already modded 5 of my own.
 
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I tried to split the clone battery pack. I wish I had left it alone. Clone battery's are well made, and I made a mess of it. I dont think you can split them. The way they are made ,due not let you separate them with out ruining them. Maybe someone with better skills ?? I will replace this clone with another, it is well made. As for more battery power I will have to try Hyperion G6 LiHV packs. :( $$
How ever if you want use the clone for the flight battery, it is easy to remove the top to add xt60 connector. Like I sead the clones are well made.
 
I tried to split the clone battery pack. I wish I had left it alone. Clone battery's are well made, and I made a mess of it. I dont think you can split them. The way they are made ,due not let you separate them with out ruining them. Maybe someone with better skills ?? I will replace this clone with another, it is well made. As for more battery power I will have to try Hyperion G6 LiHV packs. :( $$
How ever if you want use the clone for the flight battery, it is easy to remove the top to add xt60 connector. Like I sead the clones are well made.
Would like to know how well that clone perform over time as far as how many charges and flite time.keep us updated thanx
 
I tried to split the clone battery pack. I wish I had left it alone. Clone battery's are well made, and I made a mess of it. I dont think you can split them. The way they are made ,due not let you separate them with out ruining them. Maybe someone with better skills ?? I will replace this clone with another, it is well made. As for more battery power I will have to try Hyperion G6 LiHV packs. :( $$
How ever if you want use the clone for the flight battery, it is easy to remove the top to add xt60 connector. Like I sead the clones are well made.
Personally if I was to do this mod I would first send it in to horizon FPV get them to do one then hehe reverse engineer the mod and do it myself on all my batteries then you have a good idea of how to do heehee...
 
I have the A and C GL300 still testing both seem to do well 7/8/9 km but the difference in loss of signal is not easy to determine.still need more test flights but there maybe not much difference..

UPS delivered my P3A today... It had old motors. So drove to Microcenter and picked up a different one with new motors. It has the GL300B controller. I'll keep the r/c stock since my GL300A has FPVLR.

EDIT: New P3A strictly for distance/battery mod. W323A (new motors) shipped with 1.3.2 fw, downgraded to 1.1.9. GL300B controller which I will keep stock and use my GL300A FPVLR v2 Boosted for distance runs. Hope to break it in this weekend. Supposed to be near 60f finally.

Here's my config:
MKws73I.jpg
 
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I tried to split the clone battery pack. I wish I had left it alone. Clone battery's are well made, and I made a mess of it. I dont think you can split them. The way they are made ,due not let you separate them with out ruining them. Maybe someone with better skills ?? I will replace this clone with another, it is well made. As for more battery power I will have to try Hyperion G6 LiHV packs. :( $$
How ever if you want use the clone for the flight battery, it is easy to remove the top to add xt60 connector. Like I sead the clones are well made.

Photos please !!!

Hard to know what you mean by this !


Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
UPS delivered my P3A today... It had old motors. So drove to Microcenter and picked up a different one with new motors. It has the GL300B controller. I'll keep the r/c stock since my GL300A has FPVLR.

EDIT: New P3A strictly for distance/battery mod. W323A (new motors) shipped with 1.3.2 fw, downgraded to 1.1.9. GL300B controller which I will keep stock and use my GL300A FPVLR v2 Boosted for distance runs. Hope to break it in this weekend. Supposed to be near 60f finally."]

You should have kept the old model if you intend to do long distance.
New Models have less power output for control and video transmission signals than old motor model.

See here: New or old motors phantom 3


FCC ID SS3-WM3221501

FCC ID SS3-WM3221503 by SZ DJI TECHNOLOGY CO., LTD for Phantom 3 Advanced output wattage .729 - April 2015
FCC ID SS3-WM3221507 by SZ DJI TECHNOLOGY CO., LTD for Phantom 3 Advanced output wattage .63 - July 2015
FCC ID SS3-WM3221510 by SZ DJI TECHNOLOGY CO., LTD for Phantom 3 Advanced output wattage .55 - November 2015
 
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You should have kept the old model if you intend to do long distance.
New Models have less power output for control and video transmission signals than old motor model.

This I know. I intend to use the GL300A controller with boosted FPVLR v2 from my P3P. If the reduction in output from the bird side is significant enough compared to my P3 I'll just do the bird side antenna mod. My primary intent was to get new motors so I'm happy. The bonus I wasn't expecting was being able to get to 1.1.9 fw too.
 
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You should have kept the old model if you intend to do long distance.
New Models have less power output for control and video transmission signals than old motor model.
FCC documents are just that - documents; it's not because it's written there that they actually manufacture it like that. I have tested old and new motors, and both fly just as far. The new motors give some more minutes, so there is no need to keep old motors at all.
 
FYI, the motors on the P3 are rated at 400g of lift/motor. That is 1600g total lift at sea level. The stock weight with battery is 1280g. This gives you 320g to work with. If you load the motors with more weight, then they are rated for you will burn them out. I have the battery mod to the phantom directly with two Turnigy 1000mAh batteries. I get about 6 min of extra flight time. With the batteries and wiring harness I'm at 1585g. Be for warned about batteries that bring the weight higher than 1600g. There is a loss in flight time as the weight increases.
Maybe I'm wrong, but it appears the P3 motors develop 850 grams of thrust not 400? :
Buy 2312A Motor (CW) | DJI Store
 
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Right legg antennas are only rc antennas. Video antennas is in the left leggs. I have measured. Fpvlr gave you the wrong information. He has edited his page now.
Air side booster mod kit - FPVLR
Tony's edit is still confusing:
"N.3 is located on the rear right left leg.":confused:
I think Tony means rear left leg?
Thanks for the clarification. Tony has also said that not all P3P assemblies have the video antennas in the same legs. Some, like yours, are both on the left side, and some are on diagonally opposite sides, which presumably makes for more stable video, as that way, one video antenna is always facing the transmitter without gimbal obstruction.

Once inside the VPS box, how can you tell which 2 of the 4 antenna leads are video transmission and which are transmitter control reception, in case they are different than yours?
It appears that the N3 left rear antenna is always video, which is why Tony uses that lead for the birdside video amplifyer.

Has anyone successfully added the birdside video amplifyer mod with external batteries?

Tony seems to think there isn't room for both, which is the entire point of the video mod, as with the FPVLR V2 transmitter mod, the video feed cant keep up with the new 5+ mile control range.
 
FCC documents are just that - documents; it's not because it's written there that they actually manufacture it like that. I have tested old and new motors, and both fly just as far. The new motors give some more minutes, so there is no need to keep old motors at all.
However, the loss of video transmission power that accompanies the new more efficient motors, according to the FCC documents is significant. 18% lower power on the video output from the bird. On new motors, I get longer flight times, but video reception becomes unstable between 3-4 miles, with the fully amplified FPVLR V2 mod, while RC control easily exceeds 5 miles. With the original motor bird, video was usually stable out to 4-5 miles with clear LOS.
 
However, the loss of video transmission power that accompanies the new more efficient motors, according to the FCC documents is significant. 18% lower power on the video output from the bird. On new motors, I get longer flight times, but video reception becomes unstable between 3-4 miles, with the fully amplified FPVLR V2 mod, while RC control easily exceeds 5 miles. With the original motor bird, video was usually stable out to 4-5 miles with clear LOS.
What your stating is true,sir.
I noticed that also
 
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What your stating is true,sir.
I noticed that also
I've gone to great lengths to purchase an old motor P3P to regain that increased video signal range, which the new, more efficient motors sacrifice. I'll soon know if it works. :cool: I love the extra flight time of the new motors, but not at the expense of the video signal instability in the 3-4 mile range.
 
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This I know. I intend to use the GL300A controller with boosted FPVLR v2 from my P3P. If the reduction in output from the bird side is significant enough compared to my P3 I'll just do the bird side antenna mod. My primary intent was to get new motors so I'm happy. The bonus I wasn't expecting was being able to get to 1.1.9 fw too.
My understanding is that the bird side antenna mod and the battery mod are mutually exclusive. At least that is what Tony at FPVLR told me. Increased video range is of little use without the extended battery range from adding supplemental batteries.
 

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