Dual Battery Mod

I'd say so. More capacity but slightly heavier. We still haven't seen any real world numbers on the 2x2s configuration yet but it looks promising.

Clone battery
375g (approx)
4500mAh

G6
167g x2 = 334g
2 = 3600mAh

I'm not sure if anyone is charging any battery mods through the DJI connector with them connected to the main battery. It would take longer and I don't think the DJI "intelligence" can balance the cells across all the packs properly. Better to have a good LiHV capable charger so you can charge 2 at a time and monitor the batteries better than the DJI dumb charger.
Thx for the info.
I have a turnigy accucel and a hitec X1+ charger. The turnigy claims to charge LiHv. If these won't work then I need a SkyRC charger?


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they look a little lighter than the OEM batteries !!
Are you planning on tapping into the balance connector inside the OEM battery cap so you can charge the piggyback cells in parallel with the OEM cells through the OEM cell cap ? Hope that makes sense
ie. As you charge battery 1 cell 1 the shared balance lead charges bat 2 cell 1


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they look a little lighter than the OEM batteries !!
Are you planning on tapping into the balance connector inside the OEM battery cap so you can charge the piggyback cells in parallel with the OEM cells through the OEM cell cap ? Hope that makes sense
ie. As you charge battery 1 cell 1 the shared balance lead charges bat 2 cell 1


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I went into my bird and taped into the power leads. I don't know how I will charge the packs . I will figure it out.
 
I went into my bird and taped into the power leads. I don't know how I will charge the packs . I will figure it out.

Oh you just tapped into the pain power supply into the main board ? Soldered onto the main centre board ?

In my opinion the best way to do this would be to have the balance leads from each cell setup so you could plug them back into the "smart cap" to charge.

To further elaborate on that, an even potentially "better" way would be to run the 2 piggyback cells through the smart cap on the battery plugged into the phantom. The reason for doing this is, the smart cap could do its usual job of feeding it's info into the aircraft and back to your transmitter so you would have an actual readout of what was happening in the bird.

If you tie live cells right into the main ESC centre board, you are effectively removing all "smart" features from half of your battery. And that's including all the safety features designed to keep from destroying your bird if there is a faulty cell or a short in the pack etc.

I would rather fry a battery than the bird is all I'm saying.

Does this make sense ?


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A very crude drawing but essentially you have.
Step 1
You split the clone battery and make 2x 2S batteries, one for each side of your bird.
Step 2
A modified battery with balance / power leads tapped into cell 1&2 on the host battery coming out to plug into the 2S battery you make that attaches to the left side of the phantom. And another balance / power lead coming out tapped into cell 3&4 on the host battery that plug into the other 2S battery you made for the left side of the phantom.

With this setup all power is run through the host battery "smart cap" which thinks it has 4 cells (which happen to be double the stock capacity each) and it goes about its usual business as a smart battery.

When charging you plug it all together (off the bird) and plug the host battery into the charger which charges the whole setup.

Essentially it is a 4S battery and each of those 4 cells is made up of 2 x 1120mah cells in parallel.

Everything has to stay in parallel so you are doubling capacity not voltage !!!

Making any sense ?.


a8497ca6a77887264a67d6646bfac26e.jpg



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dc8f367be647f06b3992fc292a7a6b99.jpg





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I may have to rethink this.:confused:

I'm not saying your way won't work, and I haven't tested my way either!! I have been planning to do this for a while and this is how far I have got with what I know so far !!

Don't take it negatively by any means !!


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Isn't this still the same idea as with the current battery mod (fpvcustoms)? Only you have 2 4s lipos connected to the battery through xt60 connectors. Because they are parallel, you add the capacity of all 3 batteries together.

Personally, I like having xt60s hanging off the smart battery and charging/balancing the aftermarket batteries with it's own charger.

Also, with the fpvcustoms battery mod, the battery is still getting "intelligence" I believe. I cant see the voltages from any of the other cells besides the main DJI battery but % remaining is accurately measured across all 3 batteries.
 
Isn't this still the same idea as with the current battery mod (fpvcustoms)? Only you have 2 4s lipos connected to the battery through xt60 connectors. Because they are parallel, you add the capacity of all 3 batteries together.

Personally, I like having xt60s hanging off the smart battery and charging/balancing the aftermarket batteries with it's own charger.

Also, with the fpvcustoms battery mod, the battery is still getting "intelligence" I believe. I cant see the voltages from any of the other cells besides the main DJI battery but % remaining is accurately measured across all 3 batteries.

Yes if you run the cells through the smart cap you still get the intelligence. That's my whole point! If you connect the power straight to the main board and bypass the smart cap you lose all that and your smart battery will just show half the draw that it's looking for (causing potential problems I think).
I didn't see what I'm talking about on FPV Customs (but I may have just missed it)

This is essentially what I'm talking about here !! It's in the USA only so I have to do it myself in Canada but I'm ok with that !!

Phantom 3 Power Mod V3 save 25 % during February.


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Also what you have been talking about has pretty much been the topic of discussion here in this thread lol. Mostly everyone is talking about the BATTERY mod not the power mod to the P3 itself. The battery mod is the least invasive and offers options, to fly with or without the mod, choice of batteries and battery configurations. I have read this thread a few times because of the wealth of info in here.
 
What RC do you have the GL 300 a b c I have gone 32,000 feet one way with boosted itelite and the GL300A binded to the new p3A v2..
Did anyone ever test the difference in power or distance betwee A and B?
 
OK I bin up since 3AM and I cracked open the DJI battery, It was easier then I thought. Made a real mess of it ,[ My drill is at work ] But with a little white RTV and it should look better. Also Rocket forgot to mention that when you pop the top off the battery, keep an eye on the button. The on off button on the battery flew across the room. I spent some time looking for it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v14/Falcon2/06260001_zps51dg5kfz.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v14/Falcon2/06270002_zpstdqqcu69.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v14/Falcon2/06270003_zpsodkibisw.jpg
 
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Did anyone ever test the difference in power or distance betwee A and B?
I have the A and C GL300 still testing both seem to do well 7/8/9 km but the difference in loss of signal is not easy to determine.still need more test flights but there maybe not much difference..
 

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