EBOLA Popsicle said:
This is absolute ******** based upon my experience (and many others' experience) with the H3-3d v2 gimbal and a H3b+ and an H4b (both with and without battery and with/without ND filter).
What has motivated you to post his misinformation?
p.s. please reference examples of "gimbal motor burnout" that have actually occurred (idle speculation does not count as proof)
p.p.s. please post video proof that the wifi button will be turned on when the GoPro is placed int eh H3-3D. I have never experienced this.
With a name like that you're obviously a troll but for the sake of others reading this thread I'll address it.
First off, I'm very clear about speculation and potential vs fact, and my motivation for posting is to help the members of this community so you can cram your insults and attitude up your ebola-hole.
POTENTIAL:
I don't have the time or patience to teach you how a gimbal works at a mechanical level but when you've got a piece of fine-tuned equipment that is precisely balanced for a certain weight, and then you add more weight than what it was designed for the motors now have to work harder. The more out of balance your device is, the harder the motors have to work... therefore you're now putting more than average/expected wear and tear on your motors. Every motor burns out eventually (fact). Will it cause the gimbal motors to burn out in 500 hours instead of 1000 hours? or 900 vs 1000? I don't know the life expectancy of the H3-3D motors but if you don't properly balance everything they're going to burn out earlier than if they were properly balanced. This is why I said there was POTENTIAL to burn your motors out more quickly than with a perfectly, properly balanced gimbal.
The chance of crashing is probably higher than reaching EOL on the motors, sure... that's certainly the track I'm on heh.
for "video proof" of the settings button being pressed, I'd like to direct you to... drumroll please... the video I linked in the post that got you all worked up in the first place. From about 8 to 24 seconds it's clearly visible. This was exactly what was/is happening to mine, a friend's, and a multitude of other people on this forum. Whatever state your wireless is in, it will toggle. So if your wireless is OFF and you mount the gopro in the gimbal, it toggles it on... and vice versa.
I'm always trying to give people, even confrontational assholes, some benefit of doubt so I will say that I've also seen a few folks on this forum claiming that the bracket doesn't affect their settings button. Maybe it's a difference between the v1 and v2 H3-3D, I'm not sure but you can't argue that plenty of people are having the problem, it's ALL OVER THE FREAKING INTERNET.
Additionally, if someone were to, say get the hero4 in the h3-3d and not have the wireless toggle on, and that person were to never remove the gimbal from the housing... you wouldn't ever notice the issue. For those of us (like me) that take the gopro in/out of the gimbal frequently it's a major hassle. Several times I've forgotten to have the hero4 wireless "on" when I put it in the gimbal (so that it toggles off) and when I fly away, lose control at short range. fortunately when it returns to home I'm able to resume control and fix it but it's still a major hassle and lost flight time.
It's a simple fact that the H3-3D was not designed specifically for the Hero4. Period. Fact.
Just because something works, doesn't mean it was designed specifically for it. The point of this thread was to exchange information about a newer gimbal which IS designed for the Hero 4. If you don't have anything constructive to add on that front I humbly suggest you go be a **** somewhere else.