MaxxUAV.com now carries ItElite Antennas!

I know I posted this in another thread, but this may be the proper thread to post it in.

Anyway, I noticed in pictures of installs with the "clean install", connecting the RC to the antenna, the cables criss-cross. I did the normal install (drilled the holes), and when looking at the pics on Max's site, the cables don't criss-cross, left goes to left, right goes to right. Is this correct, or does it make a difference?

Thanks!
 
I love Friday morning Mail...

Thank you MAXXUAV!

1B38284E-9EE4-4AFF-94FD-A7E6B48FB4DC_zpscetjyqqh.jpg
 
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I know I posted this in another thread, but this may be the proper thread to post it in.

Anyway, I noticed in pictures of installs with the "clean install", connecting the RC to the antenna, the cables criss-cross. I did the normal install (drilled the holes), and when looking at the pics on Max's site, the cables don't criss-cross, left goes to left, right goes to right. Is this correct, or does it make a difference?

Thanks!


Doesn't matter but I wondered the same thing when I installed my first.
 
I know I posted this in another thread, but this may be the proper thread to post it in.

Anyway, I noticed in pictures of installs with the "clean install", connecting the RC to the antenna, the cables criss-cross. I did the normal install (drilled the holes), and when looking at the pics on Max's site, the cables don't criss-cross, left goes to left, right goes to right. Is this correct, or does it make a difference?

Thanks!

It's my remote in the other thread. Those cables fit better with the clean install if you cross them. Pic on his website shows them crossed. I don't think it matters though.



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Finally got back from vacation and am able to put my setup together.

Quick question, it was discussed in another thread but no definite answer as everyone got side tracked. What must be turned on first? Amps or RC? Does it really matter?
 
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Finally got back from vacation and is able to put my setup together.

Quick question, it was discussed in another thread but no definite answer as everyone got side tracked. What must be turned on first? Amps or RC? Does it really matter?
It doesn't matter.
 
So, does a higher DBI value translate to a stronger signal? Or different signal range or ? Anyone care to explain how this comes into play?

As the range / DBI increases the width decreases. So aiming will become more important. Imagine omni directional antennas like a light bulb, lights up everything equally. And a directional as becoming more focused like a flood light (sending all the light in one direction)
The really high DBI antennas are more like a spot light ... Very narrow beam but shines really far !

Hope that helps.


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When I opened up my case a while back to do the mods for installing the ITE-DBS02, as I was reassembling I noticed that one of the screw posts was broken and in too many pieces to repair. I ground the remnant post flat, fashioned a spacer, and by using a longer screw was able to put the case back together. After a few test flights, I noticed a rattling in the case, opened it up again and found more plastic bits and a screw. At this point I did a search and found out about the plastic problem with the GL300B models (and would have to say that anyone with this model probably shouldn't open it up). As I looked for the location of these broken bits, I noticed a couple more cracked posts (none of which were touched during the first opening). The crumbling house of cards began at this point; every post that I "repaired" seemed to cause another to break - as of this post, I have had to use JB Weld PlasticWeld to build up 3 of the 4 case screw posts, one on the RTH button, and two on the control stick mounts. I have had to open the unit and get much deeper into it more than I would have liked. As of now, it still functions - made a 15000' flight yesterday. However, the two buttons on the upper right corner (video playback & camera shutter) no longer function and at times the video will repeatedly turn itself on & off. Any ideas?
 
When I opened up my case a while back to do the mods for installing the ITE-DBS02, as I was reassembling I noticed that one of the screw posts was broken and in too many pieces to repair. I ground the remnant post flat, fashioned a spacer, and by using a longer screw was able to put the case back together. After a few test flights, I noticed a rattling in the case, opened it up again and found more plastic bits and a screw. At this point I did a search and found out about the plastic problem with the GL300B models (and would have to say that anyone with this model probably shouldn't open it up). As I looked for the location of these broken bits, I noticed a couple more cracked posts (none of which were touched during the first opening). The crumbling house of cards began at this point; every post that I "repaired" seemed to cause another to break - as of this post, I have had to use JB Weld PlasticWeld to build up 3 of the 4 case screw posts, one on the RTH button, and two on the control stick mounts. I have had to open the unit and get much deeper into it more than I would have liked. As of now, it still functions - made a 15000' flight yesterday. However, the two buttons on the upper right corner (video playback & camera shutter) no longer function and at times the video will repeatedly turn itself on & off. Any ideas?
DJI won't admit it, but they had a bad batch of plastic that affects the GL300B models. Check your ribbon cables, they come out very easily when messing around inside the controller.
 
Thanks, Jake. I actually did have a ribbon come loose ( the same one that you mentioned in the video) and I think it's back in properly. Hate to have to open up again - even though I'm now VERY familiar with the innards, spooked about what'll break next time.
 
When I opened up my case a while back to do the mods for installing the ITE-DBS02, as I was reassembling I noticed that one of the screw posts was broken and in too many pieces to repair. I ground the remnant post flat, fashioned a spacer, and by using a longer screw was able to put the case back together. After a few test flights, I noticed a rattling in the case, opened it up again and found more plastic bits and a screw. At this point I did a search and found out about the plastic problem with the GL300B models (and would have to say that anyone with this model probably shouldn't open it up). As I looked for the location of these broken bits, I noticed a couple more cracked posts (none of which were touched during the first opening). The crumbling house of cards began at this point; every post that I "repaired" seemed to cause another to break - as of this post, I have had to use JB Weld PlasticWeld to build up 3 of the 4 case screw posts, one on the RTH button, and two on the control stick mounts. I have had to open the unit and get much deeper into it more than I would have liked. As of now, it still functions - made a 15000' flight yesterday. However, the two buttons on the upper right corner (video playback & camera shutter) no longer function and at times the video will repeatedly turn itself on & off. Any ideas?

Yup just like @Jake said, I was talking to them on the phone and the guy accidentally said all the "b" remotes for the phantoms & inspires were made from a bad batch of plastic that was brittle. They have issues with pieces cracking inside, return to home button sinking into the remote, etc. Then tried to backpedal, switched me to a supervisor who tried to say the other guy was confused.

The best thing I can recommend is if you have a "b" remote and you hear anything rattling, creaking, etc send it back to DJI before you open it!


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"Confused" - funny! Good advice on the B's. Too late for me though - it's half made of JB weld now!

Exactly !!! "Confused" as in, he wasn't supposed to say that lol !!!


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