WIP Phantom 2 PCBs, Schematics and Info

Well the current supply is on the multicolored cable right next to the damaged part.
But anything that can go wrong with the camera would be a potential cause.

Not sure
about the Zenmuse is in play here as it appears that it has it's own source of current but there are shared conductors so it may well be a potential cause as well.
Hopefully others will chime in on this.
 
I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to thank RDCF550 for his work at reverse engineering the Phantom's main board, and posting the schematics and part designations.
I have a question....
Mine has bit the dust and I am getting a replacement, but I wanted to ask:
What is the big deal about having the battery off before installation, and making sure it is off before removal?
This could happen if the SMB connectors were not making good contact and power was on. sure want to wire in a cable and connector for the bus rather than rely on the spring loaded contacts!

What happened to mine is now the assistant indicates I do not have a genuine battery (which I do... have only had the copter for 3 weeks!), and I get a compass error (have tried several times to calibrate).

the ARM processor gets untouchably hot, as well as U5 (the buck switcher), but I don't know if this is normal or not... don't think so.

The assistant still connects ok, but doesn't indicate ANY battery data, other than 0 for all the values, and the firmware for the battery is 00000 and will not update.

Just curious as to what "cooked".
does this mean that I cannot use an external power supply connected to the battery blades without damage? It would be nice to be able to when bench testing, but I don't want to cook the new copter!

Ideas anyone?
 
Without proper comm. with the/a battery the P2 will not start thereofre you will not be able to use a power supply.

Given the other symptoms it would seem there is a CPU issue which is required for battery comm.
 
Without proper comm. with the/a battery the P2 will not start thereofre you will not be able to use a power supply.

Given the other symptoms it would seem there is a CPU issue which is required for battery comm.
Since I am returning the quad, I tried connecting a bench supply and the results were interesting.
First, thanks for the quick reply.

When I connected the supply, the quad did turn on, boot with the little tune, and did communicate with my PC through usb.
BUT... the rear LED's went solid red when I turned on the remote.
The assistant poped up with a "not a dji battery" (expected) and a compass error.
Also, the CPU on the mainboard got hot fast.
The quad was drawing about 1.2 amps which I thought was very high so something has failed.

I am going to look at the cpu/board with my FLIR and see how hot things are getting, just for "fun".

I don't have a problem (much) with the battery "talking" to the CPU, but the reliability of the SMB connectors really has me concerned. It looks like they tried to make a reliable method of connection, but I can see the gold/copper wearing away on the battery and intermittent connection being made.

I just was wondering IF the connection was broken, would that cook things or damage the cpu/power management components, since they have tons of warnings about connecting/disconnecting the battery with it off.
 
Here is a PDF thermal and visible image of the CPU and the "adjustable" regulator after only about 5 seconds of applied power.
It is getting VERY hot.
I didn't get the SP1 (spot) positioned over the hot spot on the cpu, but I opened the image again and the peak temp on the CPU is 133C!!!!!

Also, the LEDs next to the CPU never light up, so I have trouble in paradise... RATS.

I just thought someone might be interested about what is cooking....

note: the visible picture is out of focus because my FLIR's visible camera is not meant for very close
up images, but I can focus the IR lens.
 

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Here is another view of the thermal profile. I compressed and increased the thermal range for better view of the hotspots.
 

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hi guys.
i found your forum here because i dont know how to solve my problem. i have quadcopter and i would like put electronic from it into Walkera QR X350 PRO shell. i have NAZA v2, sunny sky motors, i ordered main board from walkera and i have afroESC. but afro ESC are so big for shell. i ordered ESC from pahntom 2+ vision because they are right size into shell and working with naza. but i did not know i need distribution board connect phantom esc. board is littlebit expensive.
my question is: is possible and how connect phantom ESC straight to NAZA? i read somewhere its pin 2 and 3? will it work without problems? i know i will not have lights. or how can i do it if i want lights?
thank you very much for help
sorry for my english
 
Yes you can connect the ESC direct to the Naza. Just use the PWM pins and the negative for motor M1 to M4.

The light and sound will still be maintained.

 
Yes you can connect the ESC direct to the Naza. Just use the PWM pins and the negative for motor M1 to M4.

The light and sound will still be maintained.


The LEDs will NOT be maintained.
Why do you say such?
They do not use the motor speed PWM signal but rather a separate signal from the P2 imbedded processor.
 
The LEDs will NOT be maintained.
Why do you say such?
They do not use the motor speed PWM signal but rather a separate signal from the P2 imbedded processor.

You maybe right. Let me check. I remember when I connect the tester to the ESC, it make the same bootup sound.
 
Get one of this tester if you are planning to customise your drone. Take a lot guess work.

What do you customize with a servo tester on a Phantom? What guess work are you talking about?

Thanks
 
You maybe right. Let me check. I remember when I connect the tester to the ESC, it make the same bootup sound.

Sounds are different as the ESC uses the motors as the transducer(s).
 
What do you customize with a servo tester on a Phantom? What guess work are you talking about?

Thanks

For me, I use the tester for my dymanic balancer. It was a learning tool for me when trying to figure how the ESC work and which ESC is failing. I guess everyone have their way of doing thing.
 
Sounds are different as the ESC uses the motors as the transducer(s).

yes, you are right. I check my previous setup and found that the ESC is still connected to the motherboard. Only the PWM was disconnected from naza and connected to the tester. Hence the LED light and sound came on. Thank for the correction.
 
Yes you can connect the ESC direct to the Naza. Just use the PWM pins and the negative for motor M1 to M4.

The light and sound will still be maintained.


thanks for quick replay jarance. but i am not expert in electronic:( can you be more specific or say it easy way please?
now u have 2 wires for each output M1-M4 from NAZA to esc. i was thinking leave that connectors into naza and just solder it (because i can not find connectors to phantom esc) to esc. but i don know from which side its counting. is first connector from left side on pic or from right side?
thank you
 

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On each ESC, the one on the outer edge of the ESC is pin 1. The brown wire is pin 2 (Ground or negative). You need to connect to pin 3 or 4 (PWM- Speed Control) for each ESC. Pin 2 is optional if you are using the same power supply. Try not to solder as it will be messy. Better get the replacement cable kit from ebay. They come with all type of cable and connectors in the kit.

 
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you are the best! thank you very much. finally can move with my project

but set of wires cost about 25$ and i need only 4 connectors from it :(
 

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Sorry my earlier posting say connect to pin 1. After checking the schematic, it should be pin 3 or 4.

Also take note that 3 wires to the motor are crossed for the CCW and CW motors.
 

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