Screw inspection = very bad day

No, its not too late at all. Just put the best, lowest viscosity CA or crazy glue in that location and wipe the excess within about five seconds. Maybe a hair longer depending on your ambient humidity and temperature. Lowest viscosity because the glue must find its way into the seam. You must maintain closing pressure between top and bottom shell on that location until the glue dries. Easy on the crazy glue. Just enough for it to get into the seam but not so much to drip around the arm. When gluing, you can also put some in the screw crack, but that one now isn't as crucial as the seam from screw hole area on out to the end. One side first, phantom laying on its side on your lap so that the glue goes in the seam vertically. The result on my bird is a far stronger arm that resists twisting forces much better than new with zero wobble. While I can no longer open my phantom, I don't plan on going in there anyway and if I did I would just open the shell with a hot knife and put all the internals in a new shell which I would also glue. Glue until DJI builds shelss that are up to the task of not cracking.

If I was to go the glue route, should I glue the shells together all the way around or just glue around the arms from one mounting screw to the other?
 
I have to admit, this topic makes me pretty nervous. Has anybody proven that reducing the torque on the allen screws helps minimize the risk of this happening?
 
I have to admit, this topic makes me pretty nervous. Has anybody proven that reducing the torque on the allen screws helps minimize the risk of this happening?

Nervous now, angry later. As for your question, I'll pose another question I've posted before. Why do the other screw locations, four in total, never show problems allegedly related to over tightening while the eight others do? Are they screwing the inner four like surgeons while hiring orangutans to do the outer eight? No. The plastic around the other locations is too thin for the job at hand.
 
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This topic was started a day before I ordered mine. Seriously considering canceling it now.
 
Nervous now, angry later. As for your question, I'll pose another question I've posted before. Why do the other screw locations, four in total, never show problems allegedly related to over tightening while the eight others do? Are they screwing the inner four like surgeons while hiring orangutans to do the outer eight? No. The plastic around the other locations is too thin for the job at hand.
And there is no stress relief or cross bracing
 
I'm canceling my order. Thanks for saving me a lot of heartache, guys.
 
Just found a crack on one of the screws. Not a hole yet but it sure is a crack. I never crashed it either.. Well i guess crazy glue it is [emoji1]
 
As far as I know there has not been one documented failure of a P3 due to those cracks. Yes, they should not be there, but they are. Dab on some superglue and enjoy your drone. DJI will take notice in due course and modify their design. Too late for us but not much we can do about it now :) Am I wrong? I suspect that the start up sequence of the motors which tighten the props may be applying a sudden surge of extra torque which is not present in the pre P3's which in turn is twisting the arm ends more than normal. After doing this a few hundred times it might be introducing the stress cracks.
 
As far as I know there has not been one documented failure of a P3 due to those cracks. Yes, they should not be there, but they are. Dab on some superglue and enjoy your drone. DJI will take notice in due course and modify their design. Too late for us but not much we can do about it now :) Am I wrong? I suspect that the start up sequence of the motors which tighten the props may be applying a sudden surge of extra torque which is not present in the pre P3's which in turn is twisting the arm ends more than normal. After doing this a few hundred times it might be introducing the stress cracks.

Your entitled to your opinion but if we never mention anything and just settled for what's happening nothing would ever be resolved. I hope this thread blows up and I mean that in a good way. The only way DJI will get the message is if more of us speak on it.
It maybe too late for US it may not be...obviously there is an issue and it's more prevalent in the p3 than probably any other phantom platform. Why? I don't know but something needs to be said...JMO
 
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The wobble people mentioned I realized it a few flights ago. I started to wonder if my props we're unbalanced.

Mind you...I checked them once and that was 30 flights ago. I managed to put them back on the dubro balancer and sure enough all 4 were way off balance. It was a pain in the @$$ to get them right especially, the hubs.

I took my bird up for a test flight a few days ago and I noticed the wobble was gone.

So what I'm I getting at:

Balance your props
Back out and Reset your torq screws
And if need be CG the cracks and seems(if you feel the need...)

We all know the plastic is in question...just some heads up tips
 
I've been checking my Phantom for cracks ever since I saw this thread. Nothing to report until tonight. I checked yesterday and saw no cracks. Checked tonight after two 15 minute flights flying very mellow and sure enough I found cracks on both my rear arms. I baby this thing. Hand catch every time. 49 flights and 7 hours 52 minutes on the air frame.

Any if anyone asks, no, I have never wiped it down with cleaning spray or the like. Hell, I've never wiped it down.

@blade strike What should I do? I bought from US Hobby. Let me know if DJI wants mine to look at. It still looks brand new as I baby this thing. Never any issues up until tonight.

EDIT: Video for the people confused by the pics.

Yep. As said previously, I would say my cracks starting appearing around the 9 hour time of use. There are going to be a lot more reports of this as people start racking up more hours on their P3s.

Blade - What is DJI's response on this? I'm afraid this is going to become a massive problem on their hands in very short time.
 
That's why I'm checking regularly. I believe I read about others who had cracks almost from new. I wonder how many factories these things are made in, or how many different production lines there are in the various factories.

All it takes is for one torque setting to be out on one assembly machine for the issue to be thrown up. Maybe all the rest are ok, but I don't know; I'm just thinking out loud.

Imagine if there are 20 assembly lines - if one torque wrench is out, will the rest of the assembly lines also be out causing cracks? Maybe not. But mine is ok so far. If mine had cracks, I'd be cross too.
 
No, its not too late at all. Just put the best, lowest viscosity CA or crazy glue in that location and wipe the excess within about five seconds. Maybe a hair longer depending on your ambient humidity and temperature. Lowest viscosity because the glue must find its way into the seam. You must maintain closing pressure between top and bottom shell on that location until the glue dries. Easy on the crazy glue. Just enough for it to get into the seam but not so much to drip around the arm. When gluing, you can also put some in the screw crack, but that one now isn't as crucial as the seam from screw hole area on out to the end. One side first, phantom laying on its side on your lap so that the glue goes in the seam vertically. The result on my bird is a far stronger arm that resists twisting forces much better than new with zero wobble. While I can no longer open my phantom, I don't plan on going in there anyway and if I did I would just open the shell with a hot knife and put all the internals in a new shell which I would also glue. Glue until DJI builds shelss that are up to the task of not cracking.
Thanks for posting this. For some reason I had in my mind that you guys were opening the shell to do the gluing. It never occurred to me that you were just letting the glue "soak" into the seams of a closed shell.

I suppose we should all agree on the best glue to use to help others from melting the plastic and making a worse mess.
 
There you go. It seems that this issue appears around the 9 or 10 hour + mark.
It seems to me that the flight time doesn't make too much difference. I mean the cracks could happen at any time. It seems like the consensus from these 218+ posts is that the torque from the new motors and/or unbalanced props is stressing that area of the arm beyond its design limits. Possibly to a much lower degree the screws are too tight, but that to me is not the root cause.

I would think that if you had badly unbalanced props they would stress that area enough to very quickly crack the shell. This could be with a couple of flights, yes?

More balanced props would not add to the stress as much, but repeated starts and stops of the motors would then be the main driver of the cracks, and that would take a little longer to appear. Possibly around the 9-10 hour mark as noted in the thread.

Both scenarios are certainly due to a poor/cheap shell design that can't handle its own components.

Without proactively gluing the shell, I don't think that any of us can avoid these cracks happening to us eventually, no matter how diligent we are with balance.
 
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