Phantom 4 Pro (available in the DJI store)

And, for that matter, I'd love to know if the obstacle avoidance can see tower guy wires (which probably fall under the same general size as power lines). That would make tower photography a lot less stressful. Even though I fly with a spotter, it would be nice to know the bird will do its best to avoid flying into a guy wire if I make a bone head mistake!
I would expect it to be similar to the Mavic.
 
And, for that matter, I'd love to know if the obstacle avoidance can see tower guy wires (which probably fall under the same general size as power lines). That would make tower photography a lot less stressful. Even though I fly with a spotter, it would be nice to know the bird will do its best to avoid flying into a guy wire if I make a bone head mistake!
I don't think so, will know more when the manual is published. its probably like me, I am always walking into something stupid !! haha
 
Based on what I know about the Circle of Confusion I'm with @Tron_X.
Not disputing the physics, but the difference will not overcome the hassle of using ND filters. The "factor" is insignificant, unless you can prove otherwise with actual video from the P4P. Theory and practice are two diiferent animals. The bumble bee can't fly. Physics proves it! :rolleyes:
 
It's true that since we have not used this lens & sensor we can't know exactly how it will perform. As I am not talking from experience when it comes to drone photography, I have to be careful about assumptions I am making. That said, after some experimentation, I am fully expecting an N4 or N8 to be useful for me at times, specially if working at 24fps.
 
It's true that since we have not used this lens & sensor we can't know exactly how it will perform. As I am not talking from experience when it comes to drone photography, I have to be careful about assumptions I am making. That said, after some experimentation, I am fully expecting an N4 or N8 to be useful for me at times, specially if working at 24fps.
In all candor, the variable aperture will actually make use of ND filters more practical, because the aperture can be changed to alter the power of any installed fixed ND filter, as needed, on the fly, just as you have indicated.:cool:
 
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"The real lesson to be gleaned from this myth isn't that scientists are so blinded by technicalities that they overlook what is painfully obvious to everyone else (namely, that bumblebees really do fly), but that one needs to understand there can be quite a difference between a real-life concept and a mathematical model of it." :cool:
 
Latest word from DJI_Ken on the DJI forums is that installing 3rd party apps is not possible right now and is unknown if will ever be (officially) possible (or allowed). For DJI a big part of including that tablet is control of the hardware and software running on it. They may decide that 3rd party apps can only bring instability.
This doesn't bother me at all. I've only used and only plan in using dji go. I've never had an issue. Always pretty solid
 
In all candor, the variable aperture will actually make use of ND filters more practical, because the aperture can be changed to alter the power of any installed fixed ND filter, as needed, on the fly, just as you have indicated.:cool:
that is exactly why I ordered the ND 4-8-16 filters for the P4P. very well stated !
 
that is exactly why I ordered the ND 4-8-16 filters for the P4P. very well stated !
You really only need the ND8 at f/5.6, as that is the equivalent of the ND16 at the P4’s fixed f/2.8. Then, open up the aperture to to f/4 or f/2.8 if clouds obscure the sun to get to ND4 or ND2, or stop down to f/8, if your really needed ND32 on f/2.8. One filter should be all you need, with full aperture control. No need for a set anymore. If you will only be shooting at 60fps, instead of 24fps, you might only need ND4 instead.:cool:
 
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You really only need the ND8 at f/5.6, as that is the equivalent of the ND16 at the P4’s fixed f/2.8. Then, open up the aperture to to f/4 or f/2.8 if clouds obscure the sun to get to ND4 or ND2, or stop down to f/8, if your really needed ND32 on f/2.8. One filter should be all you need, with full aperture control. No need for a set anymore. If you will only be shooting at 60fps, instead of 24fps, you might only need ND4 instead.:cool:
yes, I understand, I thought I would go ahead and buy all three because I was unsure of which one I would actually need the most. only 30 bucks each, so no big money involved. I can play with all three and see the differences with different settings of the aperture.
 

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