Phantom 4 Pro (available in the DJI store)

Just read that the IR sensors on the side are only active in beginner and tripod mode??? WTF?
 
Lower resolution screens are inherently brighter in sunlight. The integrated screen only needs up to 1080p resolution. Apple Retina displays are great for viewing, but lousy in sunlight because of their high resolution. The Mavic controller's built-in display also has a very low screen resolution to offer a clear view in sunlight.

Oh... didn't know that. Although even my old 7" Nexus is pretty useless in sunlight and it's not a high res screen by any means. I just love the idea of a screen that's easily readable in sunlight, even if it is a little smaller than what I'm used to.

-slinger
 
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Infrared sensing system
The Phantom 4 Pro is the first DJI aircraft to use an infrared sensing system. Placed on the left, and right sides of the aircraft, these measure the distance between the aircraft and any obstacles using infrared 3D scanning. When in Beginner Mode and Tripod Mode, these sensors have a horizontal field of view of 70° and a vertical field of view of 20°, providing a wide view of the scene to the sides of the Phantom, and a maximum range of 23ft (7m). Traditional ultrasonic sensors only have a detection range of 3-5m and may be confused when affected by propeller vibration or when sensing uneven surfaces. The infrared sensing system is able to sense larger areas and measure the distance between the aircraft, identifying the closest objects accurately while avoiding interference, providing more reliable sensing and protection.
 
Since I don't think anyone has seen such a restriction mentioned anywhere else and that it doesn't really make any logical sense I very much doubt the statement is correct, most likely just poorly worded. However since the infrared sensors only have a range of 23' they probably wouldn't protect you from a high-speed sideways collision and it would be interesting to know in detail exactly how they are used.
 
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Infrared sensing system
The Phantom 4 Pro is the first DJI aircraft to use an infrared sensing system. Placed on the left, and right sides of the aircraft, these measure the distance between the aircraft and any obstacles using infrared 3D scanning. When in Beginner Mode and Tripod Mode, these sensors have a horizontal field of view of 70° and a vertical field of view of 20°, providing a wide view of the scene to the sides of the Phantom, and a maximum range of 23ft (7m). Traditional ultrasonic sensors only have a detection range of 3-5m and may be confused when affected by propeller vibration or when sensing uneven surfaces. The infrared sensing system is able to sense larger areas and measure the distance between the aircraft, identifying the closest objects accurately while avoiding interference, providing more reliable sensing and protection.
They are not saying the sensors do not work in any other mode; its implying the range and distance is different.
 
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I'll bite.....But how about adding the specs for those lateral sensors for the bulk of the people flying in regular and sport modes? Otherwise they seem to be more of a "traing wheels" application.
 
I'll bite.....But how about adding the specs for those lateral sensors for the bulk of the people flying in regular and sport modes? Otherwise they seem to be more of a "traing wheels" application.
We won't know for sure until someone intentionally tries to fly sideways into an obstacle during a test. I don't think it will take long ;)
 
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Just read that the IR sensors on the side are only active in beginner and tripod mode??? WTF?
Good! Then we can still strap external batteries to the sides, without causing havoc by blocking the side IR sensors. Just stay out of tripod and beginner mode, although I was looking forward to tripod mode, but I need more battery power than a single internal battery can provide, even if it is 10% higher mAh than the P4! :confused:
 
It obviates the need for ND filters with a 4 stop aperture range.

No it doesn't -- I have the Inspire 1 Pro with M43 camera (X5) and routinely use 3 and 4 stop ND filters. I try to keep the aperture in the f/4-f/6.3 range to avoid diffraction limiting resolution and since the perch from above means there is seldom really close objects you do not need to run with small apertures to get a deep DOF. So, if you run with apertures in the f/4-f/6.3 range in the daylight you are going to need ND filters.


Brian
 
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No it doesn't -- I have the Inspire 1 Pro with M43 camera (X5) and routinely use 3 and 4 stop ND filters. I try to keep the aperture in the f/4-f/6.3 range to avoid diffraction limiting resolution and since the perch from above means there is seldom really close objects you do not need to run with small apertures to get a deep DOF. So, if you run with apertures in the f/4-f/6.3 range in the daylight you are going to need ND filters.


Brian
Sounds like a personal preference, rather than a professional requirement. Diffraction limiting resolution at less than f/11, especially on video frames that are designed to be smeary and motion blurred? Seriously? Most will not need any ND filters now for a cinematic video look. YMMV.
 
No it doesn't -- I have the Inspire 1 Pro with M43 camera (X5) and routinely use 3 and 4 stop ND filters. I try to keep the aperture in the f/4-f/6.3 range to avoid diffraction limiting resolution and since the perch from above means there is seldom really close objects you do not need to run with small apertures to get a deep DOF. So, if you run with apertures in the f/4-f/6.3 range in the daylight you are going to need ND filters.
This may be true for professional use, but having an actual iris should indeed mean that the casual user can be less concerned with things like ND filters.
 
This may be true for professional use, but having an actual iris should indeed mean that the casual user can be less concerned with things like ND filters.
The casual user never needed ND filters anyway. It was all marketing hype by filter manufacturers! Most of the casual users buying the ND filters thought they were designed to be used for exposure control, instead of adjusting shutterspeed and ISO, or using Auto exposure! Besides, the exposure changes throughout the flight with a flying camera, which continuously changes direction relative to the sun! The ND filter needed to achieve the correct cinematic shutter speed of 1/50 for 24fps changes continuously, depending upon the direction of flight, meaning that your choice of filter at lauch would be wrong most of the time! It was a waste of time! 90% of ND filters sold were never, ever used! They were an unnecessary, expensive PIA. Now, with an adjustable aperture from f/2.8 to f/11, you have ND4, ND8, and ND16 built into the camera, changeable on the fly, by simply changing the base f/2.8 aperture! No need for ND filters any more, unless you need ND32!
 
The casual user never needed ND filters anyway. It was all marketing hype by filter manufacturers! Most of the casual users buying the ND filters thought they were designed to be used for exposure control, instead of adjusting shutterspeed and ISO, or using Auto exposure! Besides, the exposure changes throughout the flight with a flying camera, which continuously changes direction relative to the sun! The ND filter needed to achieve the correct cinematic shutter speed of 1/50 for 24fps changes continuously, depending upon the direction of flight, meaning that your choice of filter at lauch would be wrong most of the time! It was a waste of time! 90% of ND filters sold were never, ever used! They were an unnecessary, expensive PIA. Now, with an adjustable aperture from f/2.8 to f/11, you have ND4, ND8, and ND16 built into the camera, changeable on the fly, by simply changing the base f/2.8 aperture! No need for ND filters any more, unless you need ND32!

I agree. I never understood the ND filter craze for use on Phantoms.


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Sounds like a personal preference, rather than a professional requirement. Diffraction limiting resolution at less than f/11, especially on video frames that are designed to be smeary and motion blurred? Seriously? Most will not need any ND filters now for a cinematic video look. YMMV.

Nonsense! Motion blurring is a consequence of shutter speed and NOT lens blurring! You absolutely want sharp video when the camera is stationary and the lower shutter speed handles motion blurring when panning/moving. For smaller sensors with smaller pixel pitch the effect of diffraction blurring begins at lower f/# so staying away from higher f/# is desirable. To get motion blurring in full sunlight at, say, f/5.6 and a shutter speed of, say, 1/60 second, will require a ND filter and probably about 4 stop.

If you use lens blurring due to being out of focus or bad diffraction effects the video will be blurred 100% of the time and not just when motion is involved. If blurry video is you preference why bother with 4K at all!


Brian
 
Nonsense! Motion blurring is a consequence of shutter speed and NOT lens blurring! You absolutely want sharp video when the camera is stationary and the lower shutter speed handles motion blurring when panning/moving. For smaller sensors with smaller pixel pitch the effect of diffraction blurring begins at lower f/# so staying away from higher f/# is desirable. To get motion blurring in full sunlight at, say, f/5.6 and a shutter speed of, say, 1/60 second, will require a ND filter and probably about 4 stop.

If you use lens blurring due to being out of focus or bad diffraction effects the video will be blurred 100% of the time and not just when motion is involved. If blurry video is you preference why bother with 4K at all!


Brian
Where did I say anything about lens blurring? Obviously, I was talking about shutter speed blurring, too! That's the ostensible purpose of ND filters in sunlight. The P4P has a 1" sensor. You keep coming back to your personal preference for f/5.6, which gives up 2 stops on the P4P. If you still need 4 stops at f/5.6, then you must need ND64 on the P4 and the P3 fixed f/2.8 lens. The highest filter sold is ND32. You must be stacking filters! You are off on the extreme fringe of users, and are hardly representative of P4P purchasers, who will have no need for any ND filters, unless they need ND32 or higher (that's apparently you, and I already stated that exception earlier). If you are now suggesting that f/8 and f/11 on the 1" sensor of the P4P will be unusable because of diffraction, that's news to me and everyone buying it! :rolleyes:
 
The casual user never needed ND filters anyway. It was all marketing hype by filter manufacturers! Most of the casual users buying the ND filters thought they were designed to be used for exposure control, instead of adjusting shutterspeed and ISO, or using Auto exposure! Besides, the exposure changes throughout the flight with a flying camera, which continuously changes direction relative to the sun! The ND filter needed to achieve the correct cinematic shutter speed of 1/50 for 24fps changes continuously, depending upon the direction of flight, meaning that your choice of filter at lauch would be wrong most of the time! It was a waste of time! 90% of ND filters sold were never, ever used! They were an unnecessary, expensive PIA. Now, with an adjustable aperture from f/2.8 to f/11, you have ND4, ND8, and ND16 built into the camera, changeable on the fly, by simply changing the base f/2.8 aperture! No need for ND filters any more, unless you need ND32!

Your post contains a bit of truth but also I have to disagree with some of it. ND filters are very useful in lowering shutter speed as you have described to keep the 180 degree rule.
Very True: Most of the casual users buying the ND filters thought they were designed to be used for exposure control, instead of adjusting shutterspeed and ISO, or using Auto exposure.
True: Now, with an adjustable aperture from f/2.8 to f/11, you have ND4, ND8, and ND16 built into the camera, changeable on the fly, by simply changing the base f/2.8 aperture! No need for ND filters any more, unless you need ND32
Kind of False...not always true: Besides, the exposure changes throughout the flight with a flying camera, which continuously changes direction relative to the sun! The ND filter needed to achieve the correct cinematic shutter speed of 1/50 for 24fps changes continuously, depending upon the direction of flight, meaning that your choice of filter at lauch would be wrong most of the time! It was a waste of time!

......Ok the exposure does change..but from my experience the exposure doesn't change much after launch. I can shoot a whole sequence in bright sunlight, changing the direction of the camera etc, at 1080/50p at 1/100 sec with the ND 16. I can shoot whole sections at this setting with very little or no need to adjust in post. The ND filter brings the shutter speed right down to an acceptable level rather than the 1/1000 or 1/2000 sec without the ND filter.
ND filters are NOT are waste of time. Also watch out for diffraction that happens at the smaller apertures now available in the new adjustable lens.
 
Your post contains a bit of truth but also I have to disagree with some of it. ND filters are very useful in lowering shutter speed as you have described to keep the 180 degree rule.
Very True: Most of the casual users buying the ND filters thought they were designed to be used for exposure control, instead of adjusting shutterspeed and ISO, or using Auto exposure.
True: Now, with an adjustable aperture from f/2.8 to f/11, you have ND4, ND8, and ND16 built into the camera, changeable on the fly, by simply changing the base f/2.8 aperture! No need for ND filters any more, unless you need ND32
Kind of False...not always true: Besides, the exposure changes throughout the flight with a flying camera, which continuously changes direction relative to the sun! The ND filter needed to achieve the correct cinematic shutter speed of 1/50 for 24fps changes continuously, depending upon the direction of flight, meaning that your choice of filter at lauch would be wrong most of the time! It was a waste of time!

......Ok the exposure does change..but from my experience the exposure doesn't change much after launch. I can shoot a whole sequence in bright sunlight, changing the direction of the camera etc, at 1080/50p at 1/100 sec with the ND 16. I can shoot whole sections at this setting with very little or no need to adjust in post. The ND filter brings the shutter speed right down to an acceptable level rather than the 1/1000 or 1/2000 sec without the ND filter.
ND filters are NOT are waste of time. Also watch out for diffraction that happens at the smaller apertures now available in the new adjustable lens.
Disagreement is good! It keeps everyone in check!:cool: Under the circumstances you describe, such as at high noon, the exposure will not change much, so an ND filter would work, but I would never shoot in the harsh light of midday. If you are shooting during the golden hour, like I do, exposure varies significantly. An ND filter would be useful shooting into the sun, which I avoid like the plague because of lens flare, but that same filter would be detrimental to shooting with the sun behind the camera. So, I don't use one. Best of all, the shutter speed reaches 1/50th all by itself, as it gets darker, under auto-exposure.

However, on the P4P, you won't need an ND filter at all, unless you need ND32 or above, since you have aperture control of 4 full stops, unlike the fixed aperture of the P3P and P4.

The most useful filters are PL ND and GND filters, but 99% of filter buyers never buy those. They buy the ND4 to ND16 set and either misuse it, or never use it, or use it once and realize that it mildly enhances some video at the expense of the rest of the continuous flight video. ND filters will also ruin any still extracts from 4K video. I extract lots of sharp 6MB stills from my flight videos, by never using any ND filter.
 

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