Lens filters and ISO

That would be an expensive experiment, it doesn't state whether they fit the P3S, and, judging by the Q&As they definitely fit the P3P, which doesn't necessarily mean it will fit the Standard. If they're screw on filters then you're out of luck, plus at £50 I'd rather not!

By the way @Dazzauk I linked you to the wrong filters. These are the ones I bought and I just weighed the adaptor ring + filter, 2g, I'm sure the gimbal won't even notice

Ah this new link looks like they are better lenses and lighter also. I shall await any feedback from you sir. ( please don't forget lol )

And if you fancy giving me a lesson on using them i would listen to you like a Jedi student :)

Dazza
 
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Ah this new link looks like they are better lenses and lighter also. I shall await any feedback from you sir. ( please don't forget lol )

And if you fancy giving me a lesson on using them i would listen to you like a Jedi student :)

Dazza
You really need to spend some time watching YouTube videos on the subject, like the ones msinger linked to. There are a lot of tutorials on YouTube that do a great job of explaining exposure using drone cameras and ND filters (filters, not lenses -- there's a difference). And you have the advantage of seeing how to change settings in the DJI Go app as well as side-by-side comparisons of the results you can expect to get with various settings and filters.

You should probably do that before asking about which set to buy so you have a better idea of what you want and/or need.
 
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You really need to spend some time watching YouTube videos on the subject, like the ones msinger linked to. There are a lot of tutorials on YouTube that do a great job of explaining exposure using drone cameras and ND filters (filters, not lenses -- there's a difference). And you have the advantage of seeing how to change settings in the DJI Go app as well as side-by-side comparisons of the results you can expect to get with various settings and filters.

You should probably do that before asking about which set to buy so you have a better idea of what you want and/or need.

I will do that. Thank you.

Just to note when I say lenses I mean filters I'm just not using 100% terminology as I assumed everyone would know what i mean. The lens is on the camera and I'm guessing it can't be changed.
The filters are what provide more or less light to the camera sensor to counteract to high a shutter speed in less than perfect light.

Darren
 
I will do that. Thank you.

Just to note when I say lenses I mean filters I'm just not using 100% terminology as I assumed everyone would know what i mean. The lens is on the camera and I'm guessing it can't be changed.
The filters are what provide more or less light to the camera sensor to counteract to high a shutter speed in less than perfect light.

Darren
Spot on. And yes, you're right, you can't change the lens on the phantoms.
 
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How Will these help if I wanted to film over water?

What will I gain / experience from fitting the polarising one? If I am correct lol
 
How Will these help if I wanted to film over water?

What will I gain / experience from fitting the polarising one? If I am correct lol

If you use the Circular Polarising Filter that comes with the kit I bought, you will reduce the light by 1.6 stops as well as cutting out reflections. The main problem I can see with this is you will have to make sure you get the CPL in the right position before you go too far away. When I use them on my SLR, you need to turn them until you can see that they are cutting out the right frequency of light (they're adjustable you see). So in this instance, I would hold the drone and point the camera at the reflective surface (ie the water) and adjust the filter (you turn the ring on the front) til the glaring reflections are reduced.

CPL-filter-compare005.jpg


That is how it helps.
 
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Back in the 70's I had a 35mm slr camera. Common wisdom back then, at least for us amateurs, was to put a UV filter over the lens to protect it. It sounds like op is wanting to improve photography but does anyone add UV filters or the like simply to protect the camera lens and if so what is used? Good info. in this thread.

Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk
 
We still do that with the UV filters on SLRs. I would have done that with my P3S but then having a filter adapter just for that seemed a bit excessive. Now that I have the ND filter thread on it and can't put a lens cap on, I might reconsider
 
I mean the mount that goes on the camera lens so you can screw the filters onto it. On second thoughts, I don't want to stack too many filters on it because of the weight and also I don't want to get vignetting in the picture.
 
I mean the mount that goes on the camera lens so you can screw the filters onto it. On second thoughts, I don't want to stack too many filters on it because of the weight and also I don't want to get vignetting in the picture.

Can you use more than one filter lens at a time then?

Do you now thing the weight will be an issue?

And what's vignetteing lol? Sorry more questions
 
I did read about the weight thing, but it seems that a quick gimbal calibration should sort that. Vignetting is when the edges of the picture are underexposed which makes it look a little bit like looking through a peep hole
 
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I have a P3S. These Neewer filters from Amazon do a good job of keeping exposure in check. I was out on a cloudy, but a VERY white day with ISO 100 and 1/50 at 24 fps to get "that cinematic look" and the filters, especially the ND8 helped a lot.

They are definitely not too heavy for the gimbal and initial adjustment after you turn on the drone works well. If one's paranoid, one may always recalibrate in the Go app.

Remember, ANYTHING you put in front of a camera sensor (and the camera already has several lenses in front of the sensor) WILL DECREASE the image quality, although more expensive filters will decrease less.

P.S. Here's the video I mentioned with ND8 and ISO 100; 1/50
 
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I have a P3S. These Neewer filters from Amazon do a good job of keeping exposure in check. I was out on a cloudy, but a VERY white day with ISO 100 and 1/50 at 24 fps to get "that cinematic look" and the filters, especially the ND8 helped a lot.

They are definitely not too heavy for the gimbal and initial adjustment after you turn on the drone works well. If one's paranoid, one may always recalibrate in the Go app.

Remember, ANYTHING you put in front of a camera sensor (and the camera already has several lenses in front of the sensor) WILL DECREASE the image quality, although more expensive filters will decrease less.

P.S. Here's the video I mentioned with ND8 and ISO 100; 1/50

Awesome video. And thanks for sharing the fact you have tried these filters out in terms or weight. Helps me and others out :)
 
I would start with a polarizing filter first, and under expose a little bit to make the colors more vivid. I shoot, in sunlight outside, with a CP filter, the cinema d style, and under expose about 1 stop. I adjust slightly in post for the desired look.


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