FPVLR stage 2 install questions

[rotorwash]

I received my Stage 2 kit very fast Thank you Tony

Anyways I have a couple questions.

Do most just use velcro to connect the plastic to the original WiFi booster?

I thought I read something about keeping the cables straight inside the booster. Would it be better to drill the holes on the front and rear of the booster. (top and bottom when holding controller?) One of the videos I noticed a third hole but wasn't used





I noticed a bit of a clearance with the battery and the board. anyone know best measurement to drill these holes?

Should we not have any tight bends in these cables. When I test fit the antenna and mocked where the new hole would be with the 5.8 GHz. It seems I would have a nice 90 degree bend in the cable drilling a new hole on the right side.




http://fpvlr.com/shop/image/cache/data/ ... 00x500.jpg


(does the 5.8GHz need to be on the right?) my OCD kicking in and the writing on the plastic would be upside down. But thats how I see everyone doing it.

I want to seal the connections for where I scraped the white stuff off and at the two connections in the booster. Can I use regular silicone?

Finally any reason why we are keeping the old antennas in the cover?


Thanks for any help in this modification.

 

[Roseto75]

I think I saw a facebook post by Tony saying the original antennas and shielding should be removed from under the board.

 

[rotorwash]

thanks
I think I'm going to hot glue all the connections

 

[rotorwash]

just finished myStage two







Things I did basically was the same as noted in the videos posted. I learned that the hole orientation need to be top and left on the booster for the cable to attach to the antennas easily. I also drilled my hole for the transmitter above the S1 switch pointing up. It seemed like the best place for cable alignment.


I did notice that pushing the new cables on is a pain. I thought I was going to crack the boards. Also the room in the booster is very tight and even after spending a bunch of time fitting the cover back on. I noticed that it isn't going to close perfectly. The new cables between the silver box and the cover plus the black part of the new cables leaves no room. I finally gave up with perfection and forced it on. Its not bad but the cover gaps ever so slightly on the left side. I am surprised no one mentioned this. I even moved the holes which didn't help because the black part of the cables hit the board or the cables.

I routed my cables exactly like this hoping to not kink the cables as someone mentioned.

download/file.php?id=10758&mode=view

and finished with adding hot glue to the connections both on the transmitter and booster. I found out that silicone is not good can be acidic and hot glue is fast drying and super easy.

I did remove the old antennas figured why not and maybe gain some added space Ha!



Tips I used that helped.
Using a step drill works for the holes.
Hot glue gun
credit card sliding between the two halves of the booster helps pop it apart. This became very handy when attempting to get everything to fit in the booster
8mm wrench to tighten the cables


Now I just need to test it when it stops snowing and warms up a bit

 

[Skynet1]

just finished myStage two



Tips I used that helped.
Using a step drill works for the holes.
Hot glue gun
credit card sliding between the two halves of the booster helps pop it apart. This became very handy when attempting to get everything to fit in the booster
8mm wrench to tighten the cables

I finished with adding hot glue to the connections both on the transmitter and booster. I found out that silicone is not good can be acidic and hot glue is fast drying and super easy.


Now I just need to test it when it stops snowing and warms up a bit

Nicely done, It appears you've dotted all the i's and crossed the t's on your stage 2 mod. Looks nice with the red plastic too.

I've always used this brand of silicone adhesive sealant on other electrical connections which needed protection against moisture and never incurred any long term electrical issues as result of being to acidic or otherwise.
http://www.autozone.com/sealants-glues- ... 26764_0_0/

In fact I've used this same product on my own stage 2 mod a few months back, and have been pleased with the results so far.

 

[rotorwash]

Tips I used that helped.
Using a step drill works for the holes.
Hot glue gun
credit card sliding between the two halves of the booster helps pop it apart. This became very handy when attempting to get everything to fit in the booster
8mm wrench to tighten the cables

I finished with adding hot glue to the connections both on the transmitter and booster. I found out that silicone is not good can be acidic and hot glue is fast drying and super easy.


Now I just need to test it when it stops snowing and warms up a bit

Nicely done, It appears you've dotted all the i's and crossed the t's on your stage 2 mod. Looks nice with the red plastic too.

I've always used this brand of silicone adhesive sealant on other electrical connections which needed protection against moisture and never incurred any long term electrical issues as result of being to acidic or otherwise.
http://www.autozone.com/sealants-glues- ... 26764_0_0/

In fact I've used this same product on my own stage 2 mod a few months back, and have been pleased with the results so far.

Thanks!
I have that same stuff in my garage I wasn't sure since I read if it has a vinegar smell don't use it on electronics. The hot glue I used is kind of rubbery like silicone when cooled so I'm ok with it.

Now I just need a low wind and a little bit warmer day to test out my new modifications

 

[djmell]

Thanks!
I have that same stuff in my garage I wasn't sure since I read if it has a vinegar smell don't use it on electronics. The hot glue I used is kind of rubbery like silicone when cooled so I'm ok with it.

Now I just need a low wind and a little bit warmer day to test out my new modifications

Hi, what was the range you got with the stage 2 setup? I Have the same setup and only getting 1600ft.

 

[GSSP]

Nice

 

[djmell]

Nice

How many feet up and how many out?

 

[GSSP]

The best I have done with stage 2 is about 5200' at 350' and 3500' at 2000' altitude

 

[djmell]

The best I have done with stage 2 is about 5200' at 350' and 3500' at 2000' altitude

Wow that's good. I'm Only getting 1600' out with 250' up

 

[djmell]

Do you have the vision plus v3?

 

[GSSP]

Yes, V3, the stage 2 helical is VERY directional, you must point straight at phantom, that's why I ordered the new itelite

 

[jasonnelson007]

Just over 8000 for me with my stage 2. It's awesome. Just received my stage 4 and I'm waiting for my 5.8ghz amp then I'll be shooting for 20000 feet. My video of the 8000' run is on you tube under Kopterklips.

 

[GSSP]

Just over 8000 for me with my stage 2. It's awesome. Just received my stage 4 and I'm waiting for my 5.8ghz amp then I'll be shooting for 20000 feet. My video of the 8000' run is on you tube under Kopterklips.

At 20000' your battery will almost not support that, I run the 6000 limefuel and that distance would be hard even for the 6000

 

[jasonnelson007]

Ya that may be a bit optimistic but I did the 8000 with 65% left and even flew around a bit. What's your distance with the lime fuel? Are you happy with them. I heard only 1 min of extra fly time, is that true?

 

[rrmccabe]

9998 at 450' !

 

[GSSP]

Ya that may be a bit optimistic but I did the 8000 with 65% left and even flew around a bit. What's your distance with the lime fuel? Are you happy with them. I heard only 1 min of extra fly time, is that true?

2-3 minutes more, based on operating conditions

 

[djmell]

Yes, V3, the stage 2 helical is VERY directional, you must point straight at phantom, that's why I ordered the new itelite

I'm still only getting about 1600ft and today I took it up to 375ft with the stage 2

 

[jasonnelson007]

Are you sure your aiming directly at your bird? Very critical. Double check no sharp bends in cables inside your wifi module. Lots of pictures on here on what works and what doesn't. Make sure connectors are tightened with a wrench not just hand tight.
Let us know.