Flying from inside house or car anyone?

[JohnnyB]

I have a P4, P4 remote L-coms, gold sunhans & rf linx. I live in the hills. All I expect is better than stock results. I will keep tweaking to get the best out of what I have. I also know not to expect the same results with these different factors. I have good stuff to work with but I'm far from being tweaked out.

Others are a couple years into tweaking so don't expect perfection as soon as everything is plugged up. Setting yourself up for failure if you do.


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[GrammatonxXXxCleric]

Ok... mugged my UPS driver... got the L-coms... (running towards car) Will try to fly and prelim test them today (worked all night)

 

[JohnnyB]

Do these numbers look right? This is my roof top setup that I tested a little today and only got about 8000' out before I lost contact. Then on my way back I was only 2000' away and the video locked up and didn't come back till I restarted the app.

Decibel (dB)
This is the unit of measure of loss or gain. This value represents the ratio between two amounts of electrical or acoustical power received. In basic terms, it’s a measurement of power.



Decibel-isotropic (dBi)

This is a hypothetical reference point where an isotropic antenna transmits a signal in a perfect sphere. It should be noted that a perfect sphere is impossible to create so 0Dbi is a realistically impossible number.



Antenna Gain
Also simply known as ‘gain’, this is a measurement of power that represents the efficiency in which the antenna converts electricity into radio waves. When speaking in terms of antennas:


Gain + dB = dBi of an antenna


The gain can affect the direction in which the antenna operates. The higher the gain, the more directional the antenna is. The antennas power doubles for every 3dBi.

I'm still trying to figure out and research what your -15 dBm means on your RF reading. I'd like to know myself so someone chime in.

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[Bear501]

The statement is a little bit confusing to diagnose when all the information is not given, and his wording. He said sunhan amps, (plural,) also rf linx. 2 amps on video side? I doubt it, but words mean what they mean which leaves questions.

*Which controller is being used?

Video loss at 2000' on the way back.... Had to restart app to get back.... Sounds like app problem.
*Are you using Go 4? Problems have been reported of go 4 crashing.

* Rf Linx amp, is the amp mounted close to the antenna? If not, that leaves room for extra wifi interference between amp and antenna.

* Rx Gain is maxed. Have you tried it set less than that?

* What location are the sunhans?

* Was the wifi turned off in the house? Also other devices? Phones, tablets, laptops...

* Is video feed quality turn down in the app, or is it max? Down = less processing needed = more range. (From what info I've gathered in this thread)

* How congested is the area with interference.. power lines, other wifi..etc.?

* How far apart are the antennas mounted? Have you tried a different spread?

* Are the cables aftermarket?

* Connections tight?

* Clean install connections tight?

List goes on. A lot can be done to improve his, or anyone else's situation.

May not expect the same results with different components too. Jeremiah has gotten 20,000+ with L-coms, old black sunhan on video side only, and an old P3 remote. Hes also using an inspire 1 remote in the house. Different components, different area is going to have different results. BUT, I'm certain that what Bear has to work with can be fine tuned to get the most out of it and the more experienced could help if he would give more detail.

A lot to check and consider before it could be ruled as bad luck.

JB

Controller is gl300c
Yes the app is probably to blame for that quirk
Linx amp right under antenna connected by 3' lmr 400 whip
Have not messed with gain yet, that is why I asked about the numbers on the screen shot to see if there was guys using different setups.

Sunhan amps are on the remote the maxxuav evo kit. Yes I did try both of them on the first run to see what would happen.

WiFi not turned off, but I have flown from my house with other antennas and aircraft and my home wifi has no effect. Not saying it may not here, but doubtful.

Video quality down and on channel 20
I live in the country so no real WiFi congestion and no major power lines
Antennas about 4' apart and no I have not moved them. I am a paraplegic so to get them moved is a whole other thing to get someone over here to do it for me.
All connections are tight and I used lmr cables
Have flown this p4 right at 3.5 miles from my house using the ITelite panel antenna so I know it can be done with this aircraft and from this spot just gotta find the magic setup

 

[JohnnyB]

@bear..
Thanks. Narrows down a lot.

I did find a video that showed the -15dBm reading as being an average. The closer you are to 0dBm the stronger the signal. An inspire 1 remote, (in this guys test) bounced from -12 to -13. His p4 remote had the same -15 reading. So IMO your good there.

I also have a GL300C so trying to help is helping me to learn as well. Hope u don't mind.
What's left to try or check?


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[Bear501]

@bear..
Thanks. Narrows down a lot.

I did find a video that showed the -15dBm reading as being an average. The closer you are to 0dBm the stronger the signal. An inspire 1 remote, (in this guys test) bounced from -12 to -13. His p4 remote had the same -15 reading. So IMO your good there.

I also have a GL300C so trying to help is helping me to learn as well. Hope u don't mind.
What's left to try or check?


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Thanks for the info about the -15 dbm being in the normal range.

Next time I am going to just go straight out of the remote and no sunhan amps just to see what that changes. Then flip flop the cables with and without sunhan amps. Other than playing with the gains on the linx amp I don't know. But I am pretty much losing control and video at the same time at least that first test I was. Hopefully have better weather tomorrow and get some more flights done and see what happens.

 

[GrammatonxXXxCleric]

"What's left to try or check?".. The cables themselves. I have found that highly shielded cables produce the best throughput of the signal. Loss is a big factor. I use RG-6 quad shield.

 

[Turbomania]

Hawking 9dbi antennas 50' lmr 400 to 8' lmr 240 to 3 watt sunhan amps. Also have the rf linx amp on the video side. Definitely not in a hole either. Just bad luck.

I will recheck my readings. -15Dbm seems right. I'll check, hopefully sometime soon.
If I remember right you only have 1 Rx Linx amp.
On the Video side that should work great. I have flown with the 1 Omni direct to the Controller on the control side without issue. That's with a car set up and only 10ft of cable too. I run an amp on both sides, even if I feel it's a waste on the control side.
Environment is everything, one day I am like, dam this thing will fly forever, thru anything. next time out I think something is up.
The Directional Panel Antenna's don't seem to be bothered by interference nearly as much. Can punch thru much more. But you have to aim them. Our Omni's are awesome as far as sitting in the car or house and flying, but suffer from seeing noise from 360 Degree's. The down side..
I do feel the long disconnect was the App. mine picks it right back up. Running 3.1.1, and 1.6 on the Controller. Bird is current.


Turbo

 

[Turbomania]

Here is a Video of disconnects. was testing to see if it would reconnect and how fast.
Sorry a long winded video.

 

[GrammatonxXXxCleric]

Here is a Video of disconnects. was testing to see if it would reconnect and how fast.
Sorry kinda long winded..

There's a number of trees that would block signal at times it seems. Also the red icon next to sat. count. isn't that the controllers battery level? Is it low?

 

[Turbomania]

There's a number of trees that would block signal at times it seems. Also the red icon next to sat. count. isn't that the controllers battery level? Is it low?

That is, Crash Avoidance off. Controller is fully charged.
The tree's are the whole point of this thread..
I purposely ducked behind the tree lines at 8000 and 5000 ft out. Also flew 3/4th of the way around a whole forest to drop signal. Was checking it's ability to reconnect and see if I could get control signal to drop.
This was a penetration test. Not distance. That's too easy...

 

[JohnnyB]

I've realized lots in this conversation. Things that I've already read, but just now hit home.
Grammaton's quote, "loss is a big factor" got me to thinking of connections. I know all this has been covered but....
My L-coms, I have a magnet base with a N type end. I bought it that way to be able to go to the rf linx Amp. Then I have LMR400 to go from amp to injector. The from injector to RC, 3' LMR240 whip. I think it was stated that for every connection, you suffer a loss of 2 to 3 dB. If this is correct, I found loss already.
To ba able to go from the L-coms straight to the remote, I have to go "through" the sunhans, not powered, because of the ends and cable I'm limited to. So if I'm going to use the rf Linx, I'm covered. Ditch the magnetic base, antenna straight to amp, 400 straight to injector, then the 240 whip. Cuts cable length from 23' to 13' in my car set up. To use L-coms with sunhans, I need a magnet base with SMA ends. To take L-coms straight to remote, I need magnet base with RP-SMA ends. Holy cow that's a lot to deal with and a lot of extra cables to buy to get the best out of what I have and do so with the least amount of loss. I had to buy a N type coupler to connect my magnet base to my whip to be able to use my sunhans. There's a loss.
I remember a statement IBV said.. "Every dB is worth fighting for when at the edge of your range." Makes much more since now that I've realized the loss I'm suffering by using couplers.. etc.

So in bear's situation, not using the rf linx amp and going straight to remote or to his sunhans, one loss is having to still go through the rf linx amp when it's not being used. Just like adding a coupler. There's a couple dB loss. But not much he could do about that except to always use that amp. Bear, do you have that cable marked that's hooked to the amp to know which is which? Need to know for sure. May not be as simple to switch cables on the RC when you only use the one amp. You would be switching the amp from video to control, or visa versa.
With all this finally sinking in, it's on now!!! Thanks guys!!!!!

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[Turbomania]

Dude, that's a lot of thinking there... I'm getting a freaking headache now...lmao..

 

[JohnnyB]

Dude, that's a lot of thinking there... I'm getting a freaking headache now...lmao..

Lol! Sorry about the long windiness. All this is y'all's fault! Haha

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[Turbomania]

I am getting lazy and love using my mag bases. That's all good with the small amp or no amp but I have been using a adapter on the injector when running to RF Linx Amp to connect the mag bases instead of mounting the antenna's where they belong, on the amp..

 

[JohnnyB]

I am getting lazy and love using my mag bases. That's all good with the small amp or no amp but I have been using a adapter on the injector when running to RF Linx Amp to connect the mag bases instead of mounting the antenna's where they belong, on the amp..

Yes agreed. Didn't say I was gonna buy all the extra. That's to overwhelming just to go fly. (Hence the holy cow reaction..lol) Just stating that I understood what it would take to have least amount of loss. (Finally) I do wish I had gotten a SMA magnet base which I'll probably end up ordering.
I apologize for all the thread clutter. Only way I can learn.

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[hotashes]

Quoted Johnny Bellew,

My L-coms, I have a magnet base with a N type end. I bought it that way to be able to go to the rf linx Amp. Then I have LMR400 to go from amp to injector. The from injector to RC, 3' LMR240 whip. I think it was stated that for every connection, you suffer a loss of 2 to 3 dB. If this is correct, I found loss already.
To ba able to go from the L-coms straight to the remote, I have to go "through" the sunhans, not powered, because of the ends and cable I'm limited to. So if I'm going to use the rf Linx, I'm covered. Ditch the magnetic base, antenna straight to amp, 400 straight to injector, then the 240 whip. Cuts cable length from 23' to 13' in my car set up. To use L-coms with sunhans, I need a magnet base with SMA ends. To take L-coms straight to remote, I need magnet base with RP-SMA.
I remember a statement IBV said.. "Every dB is worth fighting for when at the edge of your range." Makes much more since now that I've realized the loss I'm suffering by using couplers.. etc.

So in bear's situation, not using the rf linx amp and going straight to remote or to his sunhans, one loss is having to still go through the rf linx amp when it's not being used. Just like adding a coupler. There's a couple dB loss. But not much he could do about that except to always use that amp. Bear, do you have that cable marked that's hooked to the amp to know which is which? Need to know for sure. May not be as simple to switch cables on the RC when you only use the one amp. You would be switching the amp from video to control, or visa versa.
With all this finally sinking in, it's on now!!! Thanks guys!!!!!

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Would be great if you could upload pics of your current connections/cable ends when described in the feed. It would help me at least ha ha. Good work though.



U.K. Side pushing the Phantom 4. Peace

 

[JohnnyB]

@hotashes...
The pictures I already sent in all the PMs didn't help?

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[JohnnyB]

Here is a Video of disconnects. was testing to see if it would reconnect and how fast.
Sorry a long winded video.

Love it!

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[Snufflebunny]

The car shots from this video were takeb from a moving car. A few times I had to hold the tx over my head to get signal back but it worked alright