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T-motors + bullet connectors

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by OI Photography, Nov 18, 2013.

  1. OI Photography

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    This weekend I FINALLY got around to installing the T-motor set for the Phantom I bought almost a month ago :roll:

    Since I'd rather not solder straight on to the board if not absolutely necessary, and there's a good chance I'll try out some other motors on it in the future, I decided to go ahead and add bullet connectors to the ESC outputs (and the T-motors as well since they didn't have them already) as part of the process. In hindsight I should have used 3mm connectors instead of the 3.5mm set I ordered in haste. Still worked out pretty well though, just had to be careful with tying them down in place.

    http://i.imgur.com/QrZOLUT.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/ZjxLHzc.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/f7vB3HO.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/a5NHS5b.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/c7gQCwB.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/QWBL23M.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/mKn5sKO.jpg
     
  2. Dave Pitman

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    Good idea. Thanks for sharing!

    Is it possible to purchase 1 t-motor in the future if one fails? I only see the set of 4 for sale.
     
  3. OI Photography

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    Nope, I've never seen them anywhere individually, though the company does make another motor in one of their regular product lines that seems to be the same thing.

    I imagine if the white "anti-gravity" model was available anywhere individually, we'd see a lot of frankenphantoms with 3 stock motors and one T-motor :lol:
     
  4. Driffill

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    Single motors are available on eBay. these motors are also used for kit builds, and Tiger-motor being a reputable brand, has spares etc available.
     
  5. Dave Pitman

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    Good to know. If they were only available in a 4 pack and you damaged one.... :cry:
     
  6. djidan

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    Nice neat job.

    I notice that you have attached some brackets to run two batteries. I know this is slightly off subject with the thread, but have you considered that you may get slightly shorter flying times due to the batteries obstructing the down draft from the props? I am considering running twin batteries, but because of this possible issue I am going to situate them inside the battery compartment. I will have to slightly enlarge the housing to do this though.

    Back on subject, I am also considering trying the vision props, as in another thread someone has reported getting an extra 4 minutes flying time on a Single turnigy 2200mah battery. I'm am guessing that you could not use these props on your upgraded motors or can you get them in CCW Thread?
     
  7. cptdarel

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    sweet job, are the bullet connectors solderd to the wires, rather than crimped?
     
  8. OI Photography

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    I was a little worried about those side-effects of the external battery trays, but they didn't seem to have any adverse affect on airflow dynamics when using 2 stock Phantom batteries. The trick is just to make sure the batts are sitting symmetrically in relation to each other and the CG. At some point I may try the "stuff two batteries internally" mod you're planning, for now I'm just flying one batt anyway while I do test flights to work out other kinks.

    The T-motor set I purchased came with 2 threaded CW and 2 threaded CCW, so the self-tightening props will work on them. In fact, I'm using the pre-vision self-tightening set on them now (the ones that have the same pitch and blade form as the original phantom props), and they work fine. The CW motors have the model number MN2214, and the CCW's are MN2214-11.



    Thank you :) Yep, I wouldn't trust crimp-on connections in any aircraft I valued lol. Here's a pic of how I set them up to make the soldering easy: http://i.imgur.com/w3hc5F6.jpg
     
  9. cptdarel

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    what a small world, I just got my helping hands today! :lol:
     
  10. Count

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    I used the 2mm bullet connectors on mine. Smaller, lighter and easily carry the necessary amperage w/o even getting warm. I install a SINGLE piece of heat shrink tubing over the joint and exposed metal, which in effect locks them together. When necessary, I simply cut the heat shrink to separate, and install a new piece when done. I have chosen to run the exact same motros all the way around to save any possible issues...
     
  11. ElGuano

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    Excluding every single servo connection on the craft, right? :)

    I haven't tried bullet connectors, nor have i crimped a wire as thick as on a 14-16awg motor, but are there guidelines as to when crimping would be ill-advised? I assume there are plenty of strain/vibration points that would be more worrisome than a quality crimp (servo connectors and solders that are gooped on, battery plug, fpv USB plug, the bullet connectors themselves, etc.).