Setting up the Futaba T8FGS (or 14SG) with the P2

wkf94025 said:
Had another thought for channel 8 as I was watching Lalevasurf's nice Capitola video, with some interesting backward flying (flying in opposite direction of camera). Could you mount a small, lightweight, FPV-only camera, facing opposite direction of GoPro, and use channel 8 to toggle FPV between forward camera and aft camera? Not sure if anyone makes a small VTx "switching yard" circuit.

That's a pretty common use for channel 8. DJI OSD MarkII actually supports a second camera and has all the switching functions integrated into it as well.
 
Order a P1.1.1 and I want to bind my T8 to it. Can I use the stock profile on T8 or Ian profile with it? I know the gimbal function will not work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
extrememc said:
Order a P1.1.1 and I want to bind my T8 to it. Can I use the stock profile on T8 or Ian profile with it? I know the gimbal function will not work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven't done this but it is a matter of binding the rx to the tx and making sure the six channels map out. I'm sure it will work. Test it with the assistant to be sure the sticks all do the right thing. Since I think you've said you've ordered the airplane it should be a simple matter of binding, verifying the hookup and flying it.
 
Sorry I haven't been on here in awhile so may have missed this. On the switch for the Gimbal auto tilt ( SB ) mine has about a 5 second delay from when I move the switch until the time the gimbal starts moving.

Does anyone else experience this, and is there a fix/adjustment?
 
hsestes said:
Sorry I haven't been on here in awhile so may have missed this. On the switch for the Gimbal auto tilt ( SB ) mine has about a 5 second delay from when I move the switch until the time the gimbal starts moving.

Does anyone else experience this, and is there a fix/adjustment?

Don't have a fix but mine has the pause, too.
 
ladykate said:
hsestes said:
Sorry I haven't been on here in awhile so may have missed this. On the switch for the Gimbal auto tilt ( SB ) mine has about a 5 second delay from when I move the switch until the time the gimbal starts moving.

Does anyone else experience this, and is there a fix/adjustment?

Don't have a fix but mine has the pause, too.

Yeah, I don't recall it doing that in V3. Are the older versions posted somewhere? Maybe I have them on my SD card saved - hummm...
 
It's easiest to keep RS in the middle or close to it when using SB. It doesn't have to be exact but if RS is up and SB is up, it will be out of range and when you switch SB to the middle or down, the gimbal won't move until it comes back into range. Hope that makes sense.
 
ianwood said:
It's easiest to keep RS in the middle or close to it when using SB. It doesn't have to be exact but if RS is up and SB is up, it will be out of range and when you switch SB to the middle or down, the gimbal won't move until it comes back into range. Hope that makes sense.

Heh... that actually makes sense. I need to get a checkup...
 
ianwood said:
It's easiest to keep RS in the middle or close to it when using SB. It doesn't have to be exact but if RS is up and SB is up, it will be out of range and when you switch SB to the middle or down, the gimbal won't move until it comes back into range. Hope that makes sense.

Yes it makes sense. So should SB be kept centered when not in use?
 
hsestes said:
ianwood said:
It's easiest to keep RS in the middle or close to it when using SB. It doesn't have to be exact but if RS is up and SB is up, it will be out of range and when you switch SB to the middle or down, the gimbal won't move until it comes back into range. Hope that makes sense.

Yes it makes sense. So should SB be kept centered when not in use?

If I am not using SB, I use it to set SB where I want to be pointing and then fine adjust as needed with RS.

BTW, for all using the profile, I am thinking SB and SC should be swapped. Reason being is I often use the slow tilt in combination with rising up at the same time. I feel like I am fumbling around trying to do both at the same time. Obviously swapping it makes slow tilting while flying forward a little more interesting. Thoughts?

Also, and not related to tilt at all, I am looking for more ways to take advantage of the program mixes. One that I think would be worth trying is programming one of the remaining 3 way switches to make the Phantom arc when going sideways. In other words, you can fly sideways perfectly straight as normal, then flip the switch to position two and it will arc slowly as you go sideways. Put it in position three and it will arc on a tighter radius.

What I am aiming at is a tracking shot that arcs perfectly around a subject. With a 3 way switch, you could have two radii, one small and one large. It will still likely be tricky to get it to radius an object perfectly for more than 90 degrees but most often I want much less than that. I just want it to be smooooooth.
 
I'm ok with the swap and updates. I may modify it for my a2 but for the Phantom and 550, I like it. For the 14sg, we end up taking too many switches and it makes it harder to use the extra channels. However, that is a minor issue.
 
ianwood said:
hsestes said:
ianwood said:
It's easiest to keep RS in the middle or close to it when using SB. It doesn't have to be exact but if RS is up and SB is up, it will be out of range and when you switch SB to the middle or down, the gimbal won't move until it comes back into range. Hope that makes sense.

Yes it makes sense. So should SB be kept centered when not in use?

If I am not using SB, I use it to set SB where I want to be pointing and then fine adjust as needed with RS.

BTW, for all using the profile, I am thinking SB and SC should be swapped. Reason being is I often use the slow tilt in combination with rising up at the same time. I feel like I am fumbling around trying to do both at the same time. Obviously swapping it makes slow tilting while flying forward a little more interesting. Thoughts?

Also, and not related to tilt at all, I am looking for more ways to take advantage of the program mixes. One that I think would be worth trying is programming one of the remaining 3 way switches to make the Phantom arc when going sideways. In other words, you can fly sideways perfectly straight as normal, then flip the switch to position two and it will arc slowly as you go sideways. Put it in position three and it will arc on a tighter radius.

What I am aiming at is a tracking shot that arcs perfectly around a subject. With a 3 way switch, you could have two radii, one small and one large. It will still likely be tricky to get it to radius an object perfectly for more than 90 degrees but most often I want much less than that. I just want it to be smooooooth.

I like the arc concept if you can get it worked out, but each project may have a different arc radius making it difficult? As far as switching SB and SC. I typically get into one altitude and fly along to do my tracking and tilting, but each has his own filming methods. I also have moved from RS to LS, as I want to tilt while in motion and since I maintain altitude can freely take hand from the throttle to use LS.
 
hsestes said:
I like the arc concept if you can get it worked out, but each project may have a different arc radius making it difficult? As far as switching SB and SC. I typically get into one altitude and fly along to do my tracking and tilting, but each has his own filming methods. I also have moved from RS to LS, as I want to tilt while in motion and since I maintain altitude can freely take hand from the throttle to use LS.

I also moved RS to LS. Works much better for me there for the reason you stated.

ianwood... what I would like is to assign a switch to mix aileron with rudder inputs. Turns are better and more coordinated when both rudder AND aileron are used. If just rudder is used, the P2 tends to slide in the turn. How can I do this? I'm still not all that smart with computer transmitters. :oops:
 
So I got this radio. I got ianwood profile. Then what? I said all that to say. Can someone post how they move RS to LS and so on. I would like to take this profile copy it and play it. Basically learn the radio. Any suggestion on doing that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
extrememc said:
So I got this radio. I got ianwood profile. Then what? I said all that to say. Can someone post how they move RS to LS and so on. I would like to take this profile copy it and play it. Basically learn the radio. Any suggestion on doing that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The very short answer is to upload the profile as described in the first posts and then go to the linkage menu (by pressing the LNK quadrant on the selector), scroll down by running your finger around the selector until the 'Function' item is highlighted. Select the function menu by pressing the RTN button on the selector. Now scroll down to where you see RS assigned. Put the cursor over it and select it with a return. You will get a H/W select screen. Scroll down on that to LS and select it with a return.

There... five second tutor but everything else will follow. The radio is not easy - the understanding of how Ian has made these different functions play together (not the simple ones like switch assignment) is a challenge but once you start playing you can figure enough out to feel better about it.

I find the hardest thing is getting the human interface to be nice - it always seems to be a struggle getting the selector to do what I want. I've posted elsewhere that I thought a nice PC interface and hookup with menus that have real help on them would be great and I would expect it on such a high end radio. In another hobby, we have a test cell device that also has a metric turd load of options but the developer made a Visual Basic interface that lets anyone calibrate it.
 
Agree with LadyKate re the need for a good UI front-ending the Futaba capabilities. The on-board UI is a joke.

I am thinking I will de-tune the left volume knob yaw control a bit, or open up the radio and remove the ratchet mechanism for that knob. I find my self flying either 3 or 4 clicks of left or right rudder, and the yaw rate change between click 3 and click 4 is noticeable in my imagery. Lately I have been SLOWLY rolling from click 3 to 4, and back.

Also, I think if you programmed the right volume knob to dial up or down left or right velocity (equivalent to left or right motion on the right stick), you could do some interesting circular pan mixing, with infinite combinations of radius, rate, direction, etc. Possible?

Also interested in mixed inputs. Coordinated turns are cool. Flat skidding is not.

Kelly
 
Hi Guys:

I've been flying two P2s and a P1 with stock DJI RX and a Futaba 8FG using Ian Wood's V4 Profile for a couple of months now. There's a potential "gotcha" relating to the "RATE" switch you want to avoid:

DON'T LAND THE P2 WITH THE RATE SWITCH ENABLED.

If you inadvertently land in GPS with the rate switch enabled, you will not be able to shut down your motors. The gotcha happens when you figure this out and turn off the Rate mode. On my P2, at least, the bird IMMEDIATELY went into FAILSAFE mode, lifting off at a good clip.

Unfortunately, I was filming in the ruins of a 19th century distillery and was under a thick canopy of tree branches laced with Spanish moss. The resulting crash caused four broken props, one broken gimbal mount, and some other shock damage that may have eventually contributed to the recent demise of my P2.

Yes, I doubtless could have gone into ATTI and regained control -- but we're talking a couple of seconds between disengaging Rate mode and hitting the overhanging branches.

I did, however, get some spectacular footage!

In a second incident, the Rate switch was probably involved, but I can't be certain.

I was flying in very heavy gusts (well over 20mph) and the P2 went out of control immediately after takeoff -- heading directly downwind toward an adjacent highway. My only option was a very hard landing.

When I examined the 8FG afterward, the Rate switch was enabled. Obviously, I couldn't have started the motors with the Rate turned on, so it had to have been flipped sometime after startup. I suspect that I may have accidentally brushed against the Rate switch when bending down to start the GoPro -- and that then the strong winds overpowered the P2 as soon as it was off the ground. But this is only speculation.

Aside from these two incidents, the V4 Profile has been positively brilliant during approximately 200 flights and 30 hours of filming.
 
What I am aiming at is a tracking shot that arcs perfectly around a subject. With a 3 way switch, you could have two radii, one small and one large. It will still likely be tricky to get it to radius an object perfectly for more than 90 degrees but most often I want much less than that. I just want it to be smooooooth.

A poor man's Wookong "Point of Interest" setting. That would be AMAZING!
 
hsestes said:
I like the arc concept if you can get it worked out, but each project may have a different arc radius making it difficult? As far as switching SB and SC. I typically get into one altitude and fly along to do my tracking and tilting, but each has his own filming methods. I also have moved from RS to LS, as I want to tilt while in motion and since I maintain altitude can freely take hand from the throttle to use LS.

Agreed. The radius will be twofold: big and not so big. And wind may be a factor in the overall radius but if like me, you're tracking an object for maybe 1/8th of it's circumference, it might need that much precision. I will see if there is a way to incorporate the right knob to make the radius adjustable. That would be best.

DesertFlyer53 said:
I also moved RS to LS. Works much better for me there for the reason you stated.

Yeah, I'd want the gimbal stuff on the same side, so I'll swap RS and LS, SB and SC.

DesertFlyer53 said:
what I would like is to assign a switch to mix aileron with rudder inputs. Turns are better and more coordinated when both rudder AND aileron are used.

That's what I was talking about with the program mix. Just like flying in the real world. Coordinated turns.
 
ianwood said:
That's what I was talking about with the program mix. Just like flying in the real world. Coordinated turns.

Would that have to be initiated some way - as in turned on and off? This is a square airframe and we all use that to our advantage. Sometimes we don't want it to act like real world flying.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
143,099
Messages
1,467,629
Members
104,984
Latest member
akinproplumbing