P2V+, Data Link and Ground Station - WORKS!!!!!

[EspenA]

Hello there.

Going to do the soldering and setup today and really can't document this, but since you have the heading option for each WP, I would presume that you could program the front of the P2V+ to point to a point (in certain degree at least) for the whole flight/mission. This is thus something wattsn can comment on, or at least something I will test fast.

EspenA.

 

[ChuckMRN]

First off, thanks Wattsn for the great write up and support on this thread. I am less than satisfied with the DJI free version on the Plus (got to have more distance), so I'm ready to jump in... Just one question; by doing the soldering modification, does it eliminate the CAN module?

 

[RScottCampbell]

Hello there.

Going to do the soldering and setup today and really can't document this, but since you have the heading option for each WP, I would presume that you could program the front of the P2V+ to point to a point (in certain degree at least) for the whole flight/mission. This is thus something wattsn can comment on, or at least something I will test fast.

EspenA.

I did read about this in the other thread I mentioned before. Essentially we are missing a POI function. The program-P2V+-to-changing-degrees trick does apparently work to a certain extent, but does stay camera locked on the POI as it changes headings and camera pointing degrees. It still holds promise though I and I'm looking forward to seeing some actual footage trying this before I do the mod. If you get the mod done and have the time I'd love to see how this works.

Thanks

 

[wattsn]

First off, thanks Wattsn for the great write up and support on this thread. I am less than satisfied with the DJI free version on the Plus (got to have more distance), so I'm ready to jump in... Just one question; by doing the soldering modification, does it eliminate the CAN module?

Yep, that's exactly what it does. The air end Data Link unit is then connected directly to the CAN connection on the PMU board. Just makes for a neater install, nothing else.

 

[cougar]

Very interesting, so:
I am in Naza just like you, using iPad Mini for the App.
Would it be possible to have booth Vision app and the GS app running at the same time (since it would be connected via USB to the Mini)?
My scenario:

Take off using GS, while underway pause flight in GS and take over control , open DJI App (was running in the back ground) do whatever manoeuvres, take photos etc. then open up GS app and resume flight as per scheduled?
Possible??

Don't see why not. I'll try it this week. The only bit I'm not sure about is getting GS to resume the schedule after you have taken control.

Hi,
Did you have a chance to test this?
Thank you

 

[EspenA]

Hello wattsn.

I have been flying 4-5 autonomous missions myself with the just released GS app and it works great, but the lack of options and the way it handles turns, I'm so looking forward to get the iOS GS in place (which is waiting at the post office fore me)
I'm going to install my Datalink setup this weekend and I'm really exited about your documentation here! Now, so you say that FPV and Datalink communication works flawlessly together so far? What has been your max. distance with FPV and Datalink so far?
Any last advice for installing the Datalink air end? Except updating all the firmwares maybe

Edit: And by the way, are you using the WiFi- booster app for P2V+ when you fly with this setup?

Thx again for a great post. Looking forward to this.

EspenA

I've not purposely tested huge distances yet. I would say so far probably only about 200m but one of the flights being out of sight, over the far side of a tall roofed building, and FPV was still fine. I'm building up to a purposeful RTH situation

No additional tips for the install other than I am so glad I did the cable mod and removed the CAN-bus from the leg. So long as you can do simple soldering then I highly suggest you do that you make things neater. Just make sure you pin out the cable ends (CAN-bus to JST with Can module connected in between) before you cut the cable ends and again after you have made the solder connections. Also, I have found with the ground end, if I use certain battery packs to power it the BTU always shows a red light. At first I thought it had stopped working but turns out it needs a strong battery to power the BTU via the ground data link box.

There is something satisfying about making this mod, connecting it all up then seeing all the correct green lights (Ground unit, BTU and air unit) and then the quad telemetry on the iPad GS app knowing you have wired it correctly (if you stick with the CAN-bus module then you know it will be right).

Hi wattsn.

You wrote "Just make sure you pin out the cable ends (CAN-bus to JST with Can module connected in between) before you cut the cable ends and again after you have made the solder connections. " can you run that by me again, not sure what you mean here? Could be my English to Norwegian translation that is putting me a but of here, but not completely sure what you mean here

Thx.

Rgds,

EspenA.

 

[wattsn]

If you are NOT going to use the CAN-Bus module then connect both the CAN-Bus cable and the JST cable to the CAN-Bus module before you cut the ends off the cables. Using a multimeter check for the correct pin to pin (end to end) configuration (i.e. don't take my word for it but check them yourself). Make a note of which pin on the CAN-Bus connector goes to which pin on JST connector. (draw each connector showing which way round they are facing and make a note of which pin goes to which pin). When you have done the soldering then check that the resulting cable matches the original to ensure you don't damage the data link unit, or worse still the main board, due to incorrect connections.

That's all. Always best to double and triple check just to make sure nothing is reversed or connected incorrectly.

 

[wattsn]

Hi,
Did you have a chance to test this?
Thank you

OK, tested this this evening. When you pause the GS app you have no control at all using the transmitter in GPS mode. You cannot even yaw the quad while it is paused in GS. If you switch S1 to Atti then it breaks the route laid in in GS. So basically it is one or the other, not both.

 

[EspenA]

If you are NOT going to use the CAN-Bus module then connect both the CAN-Bus cable and the JST cable to the CAN-Bus module before you cut the ends off the cables. Using a multimeter check for the correct pin to pin (end to end) configuration (i.e. don't take my word for it but check them yourself). Make a note of which pin on the CAN-Bus connector goes to which pin on JST connector. (draw each connector showing which way round they are facing and make a note of which pin goes to which pin). When you have done the soldering then check that the resulting cable matches the original to ensure you don't damage the data link unit, or worse still the main board, due to incorrect connections.

That's all. Always best to double and triple check just to make sure nothing is reversed or connected incorrectly.

Ahh I C. So we are not sure the wiring is the same as you described earlier. No problem, I'll double check since I'm not going to use the CAN module, don't want to much in the body of my P2V+.

Thx.

EspenA

 

[andersonpaac]

What exactly is the antenna labelled under EXP do? Why is this sent back inside the hull?

 

[wattsn]

If you are NOT going to use the CAN-Bus module then connect both the CAN-Bus cable and the JST cable to the CAN-Bus module before you cut the ends off the cables. Using a multimeter check for the correct pin to pin (end to end) configuration (i.e. don't take my word for it but check them yourself). Make a note of which pin on the CAN-Bus connector goes to which pin on JST connector. (draw each connector showing which way round they are facing and make a note of which pin goes to which pin). When you have done the soldering then check that the resulting cable matches the original to ensure you don't damage the data link unit, or worse still the main board, due to incorrect connections.

That's all. Always best to double and triple check just to make sure nothing is reversed or connected incorrectly.

Ahh I C. So we are not sure the wiring is the same as you described earlier. No problem, I'll double check since I'm not going to use the CAN module, don't want to much in the body of my P2V+.

Thx.

EspenA

It worked for me. I'm just saying check it for yourself to make sure the connections have been made correctly. No harm double checking.

 

[wattsn]

What exactly is the antenna labelled under EXP do? Why is this sent back inside the hull?

You route them where you want. They just need to he routed at 90degrees to each other. If not inside the shell then tape it somewhere.

 

[PhantomRock]

Hi All! I would like to make this mod for one of my Phantom Vision + machines. I want to use the 900Mhz version, as (being a radio guy) I want the bird transmitters to be on 3 different bands. Yes, I know that you are using 2.4 okay, but as each receiver in the bird already has to deal with out of band interference from the other transmitter, it just seems safer to me for liability reasons. There might possibly be better wifi performance, as well as a little better penetration of trees with the lower band.

So I am looking for anyone who has done this, or who can do this alongside with me.

Also perhaps someone with a frequency counter can give the exact frequencies used, as I wonder if this is in the ham band of:
902.0-928.0 MHz: CW, Phone, Image, MCW, RTTY/Data

Thanks a lot.

 

[NYG]

Those of you that spliced wires together to bypass installing the CAN module on the leg, do you know what the small IC on the bottom side of the CAN module is for? It's labeled "SV4". From what I can tell it runs to the red wire inside the black CAN cable. If I do a continuity test with my meter it prevents me from buzzing out the red wire.

Anyone know what this component is?

 

[wattsn]

Those of you that spliced wires together to bypass installing the CAN module on the leg, do you know what the small IC on the bottom side of the CAN module is for? It's labeled "SV4". From what I can tell it runs to the red wire inside the black CAN cable. If I do a continuity test with my meter it prevents me from buzzing out the red wire.

Anyone know what this component is?

That's strange as I buzzed out the red wire just fine.

 

[NYG]

Those of you that spliced wires together to bypass installing the CAN module on the leg, do you know what the small IC on the bottom side of the CAN module is for? It's labeled "SV4". From what I can tell it runs to the red wire inside the black CAN cable. If I do a continuity test with my meter it prevents me from buzzing out the red wire.

Anyone know what this component is?

That's strange as I buzzed out the red wire just fine.

I'm going to finish the mod and just order a couple of extra cables if I want to revert back.

BTW has anyone tried using a USB joystick with the PC version of GS? Best Buy has the Logitech extreme 3D for $32. I'm going to pick one up today.

 

[wattsn]

I'm going to finish the mod and just order a couple of extra cables if I want to revert back.

Yep, that's what I did, but had no reason, yet, to revert.

 

[fastsmiles]

Have you tested the touch screen flight controls on the iPad using GS?

 

[wattsn]

Have you tested the touch screen flight controls on the iPad using GS?

No, not used them myself yet. Will give them a go in the week.

 

[EspenA]

Hi all.

Well finished my setup yesterday (no pictures yet) and after first using the CAN module inside the body, I decided to skip it an solder the CAN bus cable and IC cable (flat cable) instead (much cleaner install). Got confused by your picture earlier here wattsn (depends how you look at it, I guess), but got it all worked out after pinning it out with my multimeter Did only get to do 3 short test runs in my neighborhood (20 meters height, 30-40 meters distance) last night. It all worked very well! A bit funny the way it took off though and not working itself all the way to WP1, but halfway there before heading to WP 2 and then completely to WP 1 after that. Need to test more though. The video feed was smooth and perfect all the way too

fastsmiles I did test the on screen joystick, that did not work well, but I think it's most likely that's the way it's supposed to work. Could be a setup thing, but think it has something to do with latency. Also when it takes off using the joystick feature, it rises to about 1 meter, but then the drone bounce up and down a lot, touching the ground (not a pleasant sight actually). I will test this to more tonight i hope.

Now I need to order a CAN bus cable so that I can upgrade in the future though

I will have to test a lot more of the options/WP settings and range off course, to be completely happy.

Anyways, both thumbs up for me to so far!