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GL300 A-B-C

Discussion in 'Pro/Adv Discussion' started by Thopper, Mar 7, 2016.

  1. Thopper

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    I have read about the differences between the different models of controls, video compression being moved to the iPad etc. but mostly confused about the transmitter power out and range. The B having 1.2 KM range and the C having 3KM range. I have a B model and get approx. 2 Mile range before RTH.

    What are your experiences when putting a ITELITE or FPVLR antenna on the B model? Can you get 4-5 miles non boosted with this set up.
     
  2. Sinisalo

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  3. DGitalChaos

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    I've gone 2.736 miles away with the B controller, no mods at all on my advanced.


    Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots mobile app
     
  4. Phantom751874

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    Stock P3A, stock GL300A, both original versions, 4 miles out 4 miles back.
     
    sonof40 and mikecorn1 like this.
  5. Thopper

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    i believe the transmitted signal on the A is twice that of a B.
     
  6. Prowler

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    I go so far out with the stock B setup, that the battery return home feature kicks in, so no need for me to get farther range.
     
  7. Thopper

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    The furthest I have gone with my B controller is approx. 2 miles but I am always in an urban area or semi urban area. I will have my modded FPLVR controller in two days for testing.
     
  8. Phantom751874

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    You can go much further than the battery return home. The GO App knows nothing about head or tailwinds.
     
  9. Prowler

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    Yes one day I will try this. I will go until I get no signal. I know it will be farther than 2.6 miles with the stock set up. I might not make it back home but I will know how far out I can go. Waiting for a light wind day.
     
  10. Phantom751874

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    I always take a battery out to test wind as best as possible. Full throttle always into direct headwind and I look at my average speed. Then full throttle coming back looking at my average speed. I'll do 3-4 of these over a shorter distance to get a good feeling first.

    Then with another battery I'll make a run. If winds are near zero (you got ~32-35mph each way in P-GPS mode) then you gotta figure you'll want to turn around at about the 60% battery remaining mark, maybe a tad less. Key is if you can you want to be back and over your head with ~15% battery left. At 10% the P3 starts to auto land. Not good but you can fight it with throttle to keep it from landing all the way and just ease it down to you on a slope (if you have to).

    Also make sure your battery is fully charged. On the charger till it cuts off. Then off the charger turn the battery on then plug it while on back up to the charger. Most times it'll charge more for a few minutes before cutting off. And if you've got ~20 cycles on your battery then calibrate it first. No good if it says it's at 30% in the GO App and it's really at 15%. To calibrate charge it up to 100% and run it down to 10% and land. Take it inside and take the props off. Turn the P3 back on and let it run down to 2% then turn it off and charge it back up to 100% after its cooled down.

    Don't do distance runs in cold weather period. There's really no point. Your battery won't last as long and your just taking unnecessary risks.

    I had a run against a ~15mph headwind. I was getting 22-25mph all the way out and 37-40mph on the way back. I turned around with 45% battery remaining and made it back 60ft above my head with exactly 10% battery left.

    Another thing to consider is DJi nuetered the speed when in P-GPS mode with one of their later firmware updates. In P-GPS your max speed is limited to ~35mph even if your riding a tailwind. If you flip it into ATTI mode it'll ride the tailwind and go faster than ~35mph.
    P-GPS is NO different than ATTI when you are moving as far as drifting. In either mode the P3 will drift with wind and you have to correct by watching your map view. Just make sure if you want to stop on your way out or coming back in that you flip it into P-GPS mode so it'll stay put until you are ready to move again.