GadgetGuy
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Dual Battery Mod
- Thread starter Rocket_Aus
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As long as that new battery gets pumped through the "brain" of the DJI battery I think you are going to be fine !!
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Well, the mod I didn't expect to work; that is... the smart battery mod....., but it isn't a battery....., ummm, it is the mod that means you don't have to buy anymore genuine DJ batteries, no..., that is not what I meant to do. I wouldn't want to hurt DJ... Oh, wait a minute.... Forget about all that extended flight nonsense..... 
I have to say, I have been around these drones about six months. Those DJ corporate types are really going to love me...
Back to business. No YouTube (yet), but enough to at least verify that the concept works. I am so glad I saw this thread. I always wondered about this idea. This thread was the nudge.
Btw, I have learned the best way to plug the battery into the controller is balance plug first. This is mandatory. If you do it backwards, you will probably lock up the controller. To reset the controller is very easy since you are able to power down. After powering down, press the button and hold for about 5 seconds to complete the reset, and you are done. Since I am into procedures, the other half of that one I just described usually involves installing on the copter, IE: sliding the battery into the bay. There is a best order to do this. Simply put, try to organize it so that when you slide the battery manager into the bay, it has been hooked up to the copter batteries, and turned off.
For example; I will already have the side mound batteries on my bird. When I am prepping it to fly, I will take the balance cable from either battery and plug it into the battery manager before I think about putting it into the copter bay. The battery manager usually turns on when this happens, so I now have a chance to turn it off. I can then slide it into the bay because it has been energized, and formally turned off. The other three battery cables may now be plugged in, as well.
It is getting kind of late for me, so I better get some pictures uploaded that will imply certain things. Basically a quick and dirty proof of concept, but proof...., so you can proceed, man! Also, don't nobody worry about me wanting to start a business, or whatever..., I have received so much help like this in the past. I will continue trying to document stuff, and hope nothing surfaces that I missed. I still don't believe it works...
I have to say, I have been around these drones about six months. Those DJ corporate types are really going to love me...Back to business. No YouTube (yet), but enough to at least verify that the concept works. I am so glad I saw this thread. I always wondered about this idea. This thread was the nudge.
Btw, I have learned the best way to plug the battery into the controller is balance plug first. This is mandatory. If you do it backwards, you will probably lock up the controller. To reset the controller is very easy since you are able to power down. After powering down, press the button and hold for about 5 seconds to complete the reset, and you are done. Since I am into procedures, the other half of that one I just described usually involves installing on the copter, IE: sliding the battery into the bay. There is a best order to do this. Simply put, try to organize it so that when you slide the battery manager into the bay, it has been hooked up to the copter batteries, and turned off.
For example; I will already have the side mound batteries on my bird. When I am prepping it to fly, I will take the balance cable from either battery and plug it into the battery manager before I think about putting it into the copter bay. The battery manager usually turns on when this happens, so I now have a chance to turn it off. I can then slide it into the bay because it has been energized, and formally turned off. The other three battery cables may now be plugged in, as well.
It is getting kind of late for me, so I better get some pictures uploaded that will imply certain things. Basically a quick and dirty proof of concept, but proof...., so you can proceed, man! Also, don't nobody worry about me wanting to start a business, or whatever..., I have received so much help like this in the past. I will continue trying to document stuff, and hope nothing surfaces that I missed. I still don't believe it works...
What you have to realise guys is the battery control module manages the charge cycle , its looking at the Cell voltage , not what it putting back in .
Since we have doubled the Ah capacity it will still charge but just take longer as the charge current is constant. In fact if you used a 3rd party hi voltage lipos these will still work.
just the weight vs power ratio . It IS possible to use 3rd party lipos completely , but the weight to power ratio is a big difference as the DJi one are about the lightest your going to get , so use two of them is best with the Horizon Split mod , they will charge normally using the DJi Charger as shown in the video clip i did .
I got mine directly from the UK this is a picture of the entire mod the white rails you see in the picture are the brackets they are riveted into the landing gear.Sorry to hear about your loss!
I literally just got another phantom 3 last night I am definitely going to test this mod over the weekend. I will definitely get back to everybody and let everybody know what I think I know it gets an impressive hover time 34:38 if it trumps my normal setup I'll let everybody know.
I hope these help . As you can tell the 1300s are no problem. The 1600s are little bit tighter on the left side and the plain grey ones are 2200s . All 3 fit great on the right side but the left side requires you to turn the battery on its side and angle it out to fit.
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that will work for sure , just the weight , certainly cheaper than the DJi lipos bit you still have to sacrifice the dji lipo and steal the module to use it . it would be a bit heavy than the 2 x dji split down. but hey it a cheaper option.Well, the mod I didn't expect to work; that is... the smart battery mod....., but it isn't a battery....., ummm, it is the mod that means you don't have to buy anymore genuine DJ batteries, no..., that is not what I meant to do. I wouldn't want to hurt DJ... Oh, wait a minute.... Forget about all that extended flight nonsense.....
Back to business. No YouTube (yet), but enough to at least verify that the concept works. I am so glad I saw this thread. I always wondered about this idea. This thread was the nudge.
Btw, I have learned the best way to plug the battery into the controller is balance plug first. This is mandatory. If you do it backwards, you will probably lock up the controller. To reset the controller is very easy since you are able to power down. After powering down, press the button and hold for about 5 seconds to complete the reset, and you are done. Since I am into procedures, the other half of that one I just described usually involves installing on the copter, IE: sliding the battery into the bay. There is a best order to do this. Simply put, try to organize it so that when you slide the battery manager into the bay, it has been hooked up to the copter batteries, and turned off.
For example; I will already have the side mound batteries on my bird. When I am prepping it to fly, I will take the balance cable from either battery and plug it into the battery manager before I think about putting it into the copter bay. The battery manager usually turns on when this happens, so I now have a chance to turn it off. I can then slide it into the bay because it has been energized, and formally turned off. The other three battery cables may now be plugged in, as well.
It is getting kind of late for me, so I better get some pictures uploaded that will imply certain things. Basically a quick and dirty proof of concept, but proof...., so you can proceed, man! Also, don't nobody worry about me wanting to start a business, or whatever..., I have received so much help like this in the past. I will continue trying to document stuff, and hope nothing surfaces that I missed. I still don't believe it works...
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One customer was using the Dual ELRS kit ( in the UK ) saying he could not get past 3km , we had the kit returned and i tested it myself personally .
here is the flight test , i took t out to 4.6 km then flew it back , this proves the kit is fine , i could have took it to over 6km .
Tested the Dual ELRS in passive mode NO RF amps ( running 20milliwatts )
so this was probably interference at his location this can have an effect on range.
On landing back we still had 50 % power left as we had the Horizon P3 power mod V3 fitted.
Last edited:
GadgetGuy
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Thanks for sharing those. So, what are your thoughts about it at this time? Is it worth all the trouble and aggravation? Would you do it again? Is it giving you the same range of video to accompany the radio range with the FPVLR v2 setup with 2.5A boosters? Would going to a 3.0A booster for the video reception side of the transmitter regain the 20% video range lost with the new motor birds? Are you using Auto Channel, or channel 22 to get the benefit of the transmitter amp on the video, or have you disconnected that booster? Do we know the frequency the airside booster is optimized for, to select a compatible channel frequency?
Putting two high voltage 2S cells in series might give you a better power to weight ratio and increase flight time more efficiently. I would be interested in the amperage draw of your test. Lugging 250 grams more stuff might have a significant impact in increasing amperage through the ESC and to the motors. I would also be concerned that you have non-HV cells parallel to HV cells - the sidecar cells may not enjoy the current inrush everytime you plug it in.
I think the full phantom log has amperage in it if you wish to data mine and post.
Currently go hereSorry to hear about your loss!
Phantom 3 Power Mod V3 save 25 % during February.
Depending on USA demand we can make them available for the USA market.
I'm not doubting the kit at all. I'm sure it works great I just don't know if it's better than what I have now. On paper it's better than what I use 1000mah more battery and 60 grams lighter. So it should be better than what I use I'm hoping. I just have to mount it to my new drone I have it up in the air this weekend.
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Good news for those of us wanting to use the HV Lipos at 4.35V is that the stock DJI internal battery is already made up of HV Lipos, so there should be no issue combining any HV 4.35V Lipos as externals!
I was going test the cell voltages when I got the chance but this saves me the time. I knew that the puffing BS with Hyperion was not caused by mixing HV and standard 4.2v cells. I still maintain my theory that charging the Hyperions at a higher C rate is causing the puffing. Even though they claim they can handle up to 6c...Why? I've been charging at 1c and have no signs of puffing after about 7-8 cycles.
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I want to point out that there was a nice sticker where you see all that ripped paper on the battery I messed it up when I try to mount the batteries using mounting tape its very clean looking don't judge it by the picture that mess was my fault.
No not you, a UK customer was having problems so we tested it for them , no problems , you will ind the P3 V3 Power mod very good indeed. Couples with the CTH and the Dual 6T ELRS your going to get serious range
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I have to agree, Canada has already emphasized this. Hopefully this rig will run routinelly and I can start collecting some numbers. I happen to have a pair of DJ batteries I will try to use for my second test, assuming I can deal with the balance connectors efficiently.
But I don't know why you are talking about using the DJ charger anymore on the DJ batteries once you have them separated from the battery manager. Now that you have a real charging interface you may now use a state of the art lipo charger on it. As you point out, the battery deserves more respect
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I have to agree, Canada has already emphasized this. Hopefully this rig will run routinelly and I can start collecting some numbers. I happen to have a pair of DJ batteries I will try to use for my second test, assuming I can deal with the balance connectors efficiently.
But I don't know why you are talking about using the DJ charger anymore on the DJ batteries once you have them separated from the battery manager. Now that you have a real charging interface you may now use a state of the art lipo charger on it. As you point out, the battery deserves more respect
MVodhanel , Do you think that the 100w charger is not as good as a standalone charger (in regards to charging the split battery pack)
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