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DJI V1 remote control - joystick modification - spring/notches

Discussion in 'Phantom 1 Help' started by ex2smoker, Apr 2, 2015.

  1. ex2smoker

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    Hey folks!

    I might be lacking some specific vocabulary here, but i hope everyone knows what i mean...

    Does anybody know where, and if I can get replacement/spare parts to modify the mechanics of the left (throttle) joystick to allow springforce retraction instead of holding position by these notches and leaf spring clip?
    I'd pretty much just need that small plastic lever and spring, since all the mounting holes etc are existant...

    Seems like both mechanics are pretty much identical apart from the lever for springback on the right joystick and the leafspring and notches on the left side. I once had a hitec remote control that contained all the parts needed to allow any possible configuration.

    Why? - I would like the left stick also to be completely self centering, so that throttle would also be on an neutral level when letting go the joysticks, to avoid any unwanted a/descending.


    Thanks in advance


    Since this is my first post... hello everybody. I'm from austria an used to ride motocross. I also used helmet cams alot so i thougt a phantom would also be a neat thing to have. Recently I've been more into mtb and thought about taking the drone with me on some tours...
     
    #1 ex2smoker, Apr 2, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2015
  2. J.James

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    IF you want it to Not hold in the down position and want it to just spring to the center when you let go of it. Like how the older dji controllers did before they came out with the newer up grade controllers. inside the controller on the bottom of the left stick there is a white plastic clip do hickey thingy. That is under them flat springs with the notches bent in to them that that clip catches on so it can have that annoying feature of staying locked in the down position. If you take that white plastic clip off. Then its back to normal and will not stay stuck in the bottom position. unless you put the clip back in place.
     
  3. ex2smoker

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    I'm afraid you're talking about a different generation? There's no way I can modify my version without additional parts.
    I suspect my phantom to be one of the earliest models, mainboard says "2012 - 10 - 16" and label on the backside of the remote "model no sr6"

    I added pics, I hope this clarifies things a bit... 20150402_233919.jpg 20150402_233849.jpg
     
  4. Woody

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    I think you're looking for one of these. Some critical comments below the video. Maybe you can replace the whole stick module with one from a DJ6 or PVT581?
     

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  5. ex2smoker

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    Yes. That looks like a possible solution, although I hoped there were original parts available, like on the pic i added.

    Replacing the whole module seems a bit overkill, unless they're really cheap?


    Maybe a bit offtopic, but since we're discussing the remotes internals... what are those 2 setscrews/potentiometers on the board for (AIN5, AIN6)? There's access thru the back of the remote control... just curious.
     

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  6. Woody

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    The gimbal lever is installed to the top one and the bottom one is for adjusting transmission power. Turn it left for CE (Europe) and right for FCC (USA). FCC is a stronger signal.
     

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  7. J.James

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    Oh wow you are talking about a way old school remote. Your best bet might just to try and score some one else newer remote for cheap. and either just use the newer one as is. many people end up with extra controllers when they either get one of the newest upgraded ones or if they lose there phatom and are stuck with a remote that does them no good. and can be had for as cheap as $25US and if you found one that is broken to use for parts you might be able to get it even cheaper.
     
  8. ex2smoker

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    Thanks for all the replies!

    Yeah, I pretty much got mine when it was released. So maybe the very first generation/version.

    I had a 3mm Kydex sheet at hand and gave it a shot in the workshop. I decided to copy the lever and found a suitable spring that I shortened too. Turned out to work pretty well. So as long as this part will hold up I'm golden, but I dont suspect it to make troubles anytime soon.
     

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