ARRIS CM2000 Brushless Gimbal for GoPro

[pteittinen]

I'm still seeing some shaking on the yaw axis in the videos. It became a bit less once I moved the gimbal back a bit, but it's still there intermittently. I now know the reason for it: the Phantom is shaking on the yaw axis, and the movement is transferred to the gimbal. The dampening rubbers can't get rid of it all.

In one of the videos I shot after moving the gimbal, the vertical bit of the front left landing gear is in the shot, and I can see it shaking on the yaw axis. When that shaking becomes exceptionally bad, it begins to affect Hero3 video as well.

I believe one way to stop this shaking is to balance the props and motors, too. And when you take a nosedive into concrete, replace the chipped props with new ones

 

[MX45OR]

I haven't needed to do it yet but, the gain might be too high. You can adjust the yaw gain in the assistant software. I think this is done when carbon props are used.

 

[xzoticskillz]

Happy to report I mounted the gimbal further back and with the nomojello it is a massive improvement flying hard or into the wind.
Move those gimbals back out of the prop wash.

How far did you move the gimbal back?....I'm experiencing the same yaw shakes when flying into moderate wind and I decided I'm ready to move it back some to eliminate prop wash. I have the option of moving it back 1/4 inch and 3/4inch. I dont want to move it too far back b/c then you'll be able to see more of the props, but I plan to stick the nomojello mount between phantom body and gimbal base as well.

 

[tristanb]

I'm having a few problems with mine, I made a new thread and I should have posted in here, apologies.
I made a video of the oscilations I'm having, its only when rotates to the left, note the cable isn't fouling the landing gear, although it is close

Heres the video. Any ideas?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HdsrhFkxqWY

 

[sevenbak]

I'm having a problem I'm hoping someone here could help. i think it might be an easy fix, but I'm not sure how to do it. I installed the seventh Channel pitch control. It doesn't move intermediately. It either looks ahead or straight down when I move the knob at all. Please help I'm thinking I'm missed a step somewhere.

 

[ArshadR]

Version 5.0 now available (as of Aug 26th). Just ordered mine!

From the website:

Difference between V5.0 and V4.0:

The V5.0 comes with Official Legitimate Alexmos SimpleBGC Brushless Controller, while V4.0 does not, thus the gimbal could be more stable in performance.

Why do we choose the official Alexmos Simple BGC Brushless controller?

With the previous ARRIS CM2000 brushless gimbal, we got some feedbacks from customers that the first day it works perfect and then the second day it just die without any reason. After testing, it turns out to be the board problem. Though such occision does not always happen `cause we had pretested the gimbal, however, it still hinted we need to find a better solution, that`s why we consider the official alexmos simply BGC controller. Not saying the previous boards were not good, but it is well known that the technology of Alexmose SimplpeBGC has been much more maturer than other unknown boards and proven to be very good by many customers. With this offical Alexmos SimpleBGC controller, the performance of the gimbal would be much more stable and most importantly, customers can freely upgrade the firmware when there is any newer available. With the perfect frame design, excellent controller board and professional calibrating and testing, we can tell the ARRIS CM2000 V5.0 must be the most revolutionary gimbal in the world.

Features of Alexmos SimpleBGC controller:

Weight: 17g (including sensor and wire)
Main board size: 50 x 50mm

 

[Gizmo3000]

I'm having a problem I'm hoping someone here could help. i think it might be an easy fix, but I'm not sure how to do it. I installed the seventh Channel pitch control. It doesn't move intermediately. It either looks ahead or straight down when I move the knob at all. Please help I'm thinking I'm missed a step somewhere.

sounds like you might need to go to the Arris GUI software,. and turn off "INC" mode (make the checkbox grey instead of white)
then wherever you move the lever, it will then stick, rather than continue moving until you center the lever.

 

[rampage42]

Version 5.0 now available (as of Aug 26th). Just ordered mine!

From the website:

Difference between V5.0 and V4.0:

The V5.0 comes with Official Legitimate Alexmos SimpleBGC Brushless Controller, while V4.0 does not, thus the gimbal could be more stable in performance.

Why do we choose the official Alexmos Simple BGC Brushless controller?

With the previous ARRIS CM2000 brushless gimbal, we got some feedbacks from customers that the first day it works perfect and then the second day it just die without any reason. After testing, it turns out to be the board problem. Though such occision does not always happen `cause we had pretested the gimbal, however, it still hinted we need to find a better solution, that`s why we consider the official alexmos simply BGC controller. Not saying the previous boards were not good, but it is well known that the technology of Alexmose SimplpeBGC has been much more maturer than other unknown boards and proven to be very good by many customers. With this offical Alexmos SimpleBGC controller, the performance of the gimbal would be much more stable and most importantly, customers can freely upgrade the firmware when there is any newer available. With the perfect frame design, excellent controller board and professional calibrating and testing, we can tell the ARRIS CM2000 V5.0 must be the most revolutionary gimbal in the world.

Features of Alexmos SimpleBGC controller:

Weight: 17g (including sensor and wire)
Main board size: 50 x 50mm

Perfect, got V4 two weeks ago. It, like the Hero3 can be a real pain in the butt!

 

[PTCX]

My Arris V4 arrived yesterday,I ordered it the day before the V5 was released. :roll:
I flew with it today,in windy conditions,and it worked very well.I worked it hard,throwing full stick at it every which way and it kept up so I'm pretty happy with it.
The Install was easy hardware wise but the software had me bluffed for a while.Got there in the end.
It puts the weight up to about 1.2kg with the Battery,FPV gear and GoPro but it's flying well enough in the wind so it should be OK.

 

[flyshasta]

How did you get the Arris cable through the hole in the Phantom case? Seems like the connector is too wide to pull it through. Thanks.

 

[PTCX]

How did you get the Arris cable through the hole in the Phantom case? Seems like the connector is too wide to pull it through. Thanks.

There were two plugs from the gimble/gimbal (both wrong?) that were too wide to fit through the holes,so I cut them,carefully,with a craft knife.
When cut strait down the middle of the unused section they will fit through the hole even with a wire or two already in the hole.
Take note of where the wires plug in before you cut so you plug them into the correct sockets.

 

[porl_hopkins]

Got my V4 over a week ago. Installed with no problems. Got the pitch control lever from 3dprintler in Canada (Fleabay). Connected it the "hidden" 7th channel only to find when I move it a fraction the gimbal does a 90 degree pitch .


Really waiting for the **** rain to stop so I can get it in the air

 

[gman]

Just received my Arris CM2000. I have a couple of issues and questions. I have read through the forum but have not found an answer yet. I have used Gizmo3000 settings for setup. Here is what I have and the issues.

Phantom, Arris CM2000, Futaba T8JH, Fatshark Predator v2 (to be installed after I get this working)

1. I cannot get the SimpleBGC software to see a Com port on a Win 7 64 bit machine. (This is a fairly new Win 7 machined). I have the latest JRE installed. Tried on an XP machine 32 bit. Saw a Com port, but it would never connect. Any suggestions or guidance here?

2. Installed the gimbal. All is well as long as I don't connect the Pitch and Roll to the Futaba RX. I went so far as to set a new mode, reset the parameters, set to acrobatic. Powered gimbal, centered just fine. I connected the pitch and the camera went straight down. Unplugged pitch and power cycled the gimbal. Centered just fine. Plugged in roll. It starts a slow drift to the right. Unplugged roll, power cycled gimbal, it centered just fine. Anyone with a clue as to what is going on with Futaba RX and the pitch and roll. I would like to set it up very similar to Gizmo3000 setup. As has been stated many times, got a good TX why not use it to its fullest? I do notice under Servo setting that I show bars on Ch 3,5, & 6. In the video's I have seen they were all at the 0 crossing (no bars showing). What am I Missing. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[porl_hopkins]

Just had my 1st flight with the CM2000. Downloading the vids now... Flight times averaged just over 4 mins

 

[porl_hopkins]

Ignore the prop guards.....adjusted the gimbal pitch to get them out of the frame now. BUT well impressed with the stability
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACs5HPg21ew

 

[Mickeyboo]

I just received my Arris 2000 Ver. 5, I tweaked it a bit and the graphs looked great.
Unfortunately I had my laptop (where else) in my lap and I reached for something on my desk
this cause my finger to move forward inadvertently hitting calibration button. Since then nothing
has calmed the gimbal down it rocks and rolls continually. I've tried putting in the original settings
etc. it doesn't seem to make any difference except when I reduce power dramatically to single digits
but of course it no longer has the power to do anything then.

Is reloading firmware the only way to reset everything including calibration? One last question has anyone
used the interface on a Mac which can now be done (after some terminal commands
as well as updating firmware on the Mac with AvrdudeR.

Thanks for any suggestions people can provide on any of the above topics.

 

[gman]

Ok, after some digging, I have answered most of my questions.

The Win 7 64 bit driver was not on the CD. After some digging, I found it here: http://www.silabs.com/products/mcu/page ... ivers.aspx

Thanks to the work Gizmo3000 has done on the Futaba and the Arris. After getting the software installed I went into RC Settings and selected Angle Mode under Roll to get the Roll to center when the sticks center. I selected the same thing for pitch, but you don't want that. You can't unselect the Angle Mode once it is selected. You have to select the Speed mode to get it to un-check.

Things are working well now. The gimbal did a good job today considering winds were 20+ mph. There was some jello. I have the new version that has 8 dampers. Even with that I did have some jello on some flights. As has been suggested before I placed foam ear plugs in the holes. I can't tell that this has helped, but I don't think it has hurt.

With the Phantom, GoPro Hero 3, Fat Shark Predator v2 and this gimbal I am getting anywhere from 4:30 to 5:45 flight times.

 

[gman]

Mickeyboo,

Did you hit the CALIB ACC button? Mine showed a message that the Accelerometer need to be calibrated. I had the Phantom on a level desk working on it. When I hit CALIB ACC the gimbal (with gopro installed) tilted all the way left and pitched forward some. The way I was able to correct this was to hit CALIB ACC and hold the gimbal level in pitch and roll. Once the calibration was complete, all was well again. You may try this.

 

[nperic]

Hi guys!

Does anyone knows where can I buy this gimbal and get it shipped to Argentina? and also the tilt lever

Thanks!!

 

[Gizmo3000]

Got my V4 over a week ago. Installed with no problems. Got the pitch control lever from 3dprintler in Canada (Fleabay). Connected it the "hidden" 7th channel only to find when I move it a fraction the gimbal does a 90 degree pitch .
Really waiting for the **** rain to stop so I can get it in the air

i might be a little too late on this,. but did you connect to the Arris GUI software and turn off INC mode? (making the white box under INC mode grey instead of white).
that should make it work properly. as expected.
you can also change the SPD (speed) to a slower setting by making the number higher or lower.