weired but as long as you can adjust valuesI wouldnt sorry. Yes one side is Rx but a crosstalk Will be there triggering the Tx of the other amp.. Try to love antennas more close and then more far from each other. You Will see a difference on light ( and in my tests also Range)
Antenna jungle - inventory - What's out there?
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I can adjust Watts and Gain on the #1451 Amp, Only Gain on the #1452. No matter how they are connected.
With both of your amps running, ready to fly.. do you have the ability to adjust Wattage and Gain on both amps or is it like my above pic. Only gain on one.
That was my next question, how far apart. I will play with that..
Thanks again IBV !!!
With both of your amps running, ready to fly.. do you have the ability to adjust Wattage and Gain on both amps or is it like my above pic. Only gain on one.
That was my next question, how far apart. I will play with that..
Thanks again IBV !!!
Hi ladues and gents! Here comes an update on the magnet mount for the Rf-linx amplifiers. As I use them with the connectors up I put them in a simple plastic box, sealed the holes and screwed it onto a magnet holder. This magnet holder is actually made for holding tools on a wall in a car garage.The N-male antenna ( I use 9dbi to get more vertical beam) is screwd on and can be kept on the car roof even when raining.
Insane rabbit hole. (I love it). Ok, so in my learning, and experimenting I have found out this: Thick shielded cable a must, always. ( Mr. Suburban in Georgia). Good hi gain antennas needed. (Panel or omni-directional according to the location/distance/penetration requirement). And most importantly... the amps. I initially thought the Sunhaus 3 watts were great, but after learning lots more (Here, and researching) that they are somewhat marginal in performance on this scale. If you want/need that spectacular performance a Quality amp is most essential as well as configuring layout (length/type of cable, connectors/adapters, and placement/distance of amps/antennas). RF linx 2400LTE seems to be the choice spoken of here, and a alternative would be the RF Linx 2400SAX, ( 2400SAXU (U: user config a problem?)). RF Linx out of buisness?!? That would mean the next choice might be something along the lines of L-com 3 watt XL3000. ( I would need to save a bit for their 35 watt blaster). No doubt I have learned much here reading all your input and will be furthering my rabbit hole, dollar burning voyage as long as it takes. Mr. Sweden.... You take the cake! (Joystick controlled panel/omni microwave machine of my wildest dreams). Stuff like this keeps me furthering the sport of "Phantom ferver!".
I achieved 10,400 ft @ 275/300 ft altitude using 8 watts (dbi unknown) on TP-Linl 14 dbi panels. In a extremely heavy noise city location. Sunhaus was a fail.
The pdf. spec. sheet you posted indicates a +5 VDC +/- 5%. But pdf. also has a part # 2400 series 5v. Is the 2400SAX a different voltage? (UPDATE): Just called RF Linx, the 2400SAX series is 5 volts. And they are going out of buisness......
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Just bought two of them:
RF LINX Bi-Directional Amp MN:2400SAXU
Using them without an injector eliminates several connections and db. loss.
RF LINX Bi-Directional Amp MN:2400SAXU
Using them without an injector eliminates several connections and db. loss.
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I bought from the same seller and mine are 12V. Apparently their early versions are different.
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Not sure what sheet I had posted, but when you get the amps, open them up and take a look at the board revision. I'm attaching the full schematic for the board I received. The RF-Linx tech folks were kind enough to send me this and explain what resistor to remove so I could power them internally.
I bought a power supply for it. Eliminates a injector connection. Where do I find the resistor you had to remove/cut off? Would I have to do what you did if I drill housing and use a jack plug to power it?
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At the top of the attached photo, there's a squiggly trace on the board which connects to the R9 resistor that connects to the main input. You can either desolder the resistor and remove it, or what I did was simply cut the squiggly trace and leave the resistor in place rather than risk lifting the signal input trace trying to remove the resistor. Just use a hobby knife and carefully scrape away a section, but be sure it's completely severed.
As for powering, there are two options as I see it, either drill the side out and use a 5.5mm jack like I did, OR, you could solder a pigtail to the jack connector on the board and feed out a line through a much smaller hole in the casing. The casing is soft and drills easily enough, but it's difficult to line up with the jack exactly and since drill bits are tapered, you end up causing some damage to the center pin. If I had a drill press and some different bits I might have been able to make it cleaner. It works, but it's ugly for sure, lol!
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Yep.
Edit - you'll also have to scrape up some of the goop they put on the board to get to it. Once you slice through the top layer you can peel up a section easily.
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@jhax01 are you still using the 2400SAXU amps or did you move away from them? After reading through this whole thread I've decided to purchase two of them and two L-Com omni's.
Would you please confirm that this is the best method for using this hardware:
TX -> Amp via RG400 Low Loss N MALE ANGLE to RP-SMA MALE ANGLE
Amp -> L-Com Antenna screwed directly into amp
or would it be better (or the same) to use the magnetic antenna mount?
TX -> Amp via 1ft RG400 Low Loss N MALE ANGLE to RP-SMA MALE ANGLE
Amp -> L-Com Antenna Mount w/10' cable -> L-Com Antenna
Edit: I grabbed that quote above and forgot to mention why. Would you please elaborate on what you'd do instead of drilling the hole? I'm reading it as though you'd make a different hole and still use a DC jack which I'm not seeing the purpose of. Since it's confirmed 12v and the DC jack is already there, but just hidden, why not just go with the drilling method?
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Connecting the antenna directly to the amp will yield the best results but it's not always feasible so it will depend on your use case scenario.
As for the jack, it's difficult to make a clean hole right over the jack without damaging anything. If I did it over again, I would solder a lead directly to the mounting points on the inside. Either way will work, of course. Once you have them in your hands and opened up, you'll see what I mean.
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