This test was with a booster.Yes. I have proof. It's called the output power of the transceiver. Being that I have a background in electrical engineering, I don't feel like getting too much into the specifics. But your analogy is akin to saying that iPhones on one cell carrier have a different output than iPhones on a different carrier. The RC dictates the power, not what channel it broadcasts on. It is VERY basic information. Now when you use a specifically tuned booster, that may change things. PERHAPS. But I can promise you that as a stock RC with no amp, your channel has nothing to do with output wattage.
But, like most things in life, there are people who will believe nonsense no matter what, ESPECIALLY if they know nothing about it.
Amped Controllers/Antennas
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I understand. I would need to see the technical data on the booster, but most likely it won't make a real difference.
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This might be a silly question but as the frequency goes higher eg from 2.4 - 2.5 do you gain bandwidth and lose distance ? Or is that also negligible
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Just to be fair Davphys seemed to have a hard time believing you can fly much further than his personal best and even called BS when others shared their distance! I dont get the impression he agrees with much!
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Here's a video showing the half-white and half-blue lights on my Sunhans amps:
The blue light on top amp is camera right. Blue light on bottom amp is camera left. I adjusted the exposure from light to dark, and dark to light, to show the blinking I mentioned in my first post. Everything was on and connected to P3P. Is there something wrong with my amps?
The blue light on top amp is camera right. Blue light on bottom amp is camera left. I adjusted the exposure from light to dark, and dark to light, to show the blinking I mentioned in my first post. Everything was on and connected to P3P. Is there something wrong with my amps?
I can measure the same what @LarsR already did when i get the powermeter, but there is no reason to believe his findings are not accurate. I do believe the power would have been same if measured before the airside amp though.
I can measure the same what @LarsR already did when i get the powermeter, but there is no reason to believe his findings are not accurate. I do believe the power would have been same between all the channels if measured before the airside amp though.
I can measure the same what @LarsR already did when i get the powermeter, but there is no reason to believe his findings are not accurate. I do believe the power would have been same between all the channels if measured before the airside amp though.
Never seen this version of sunhans amp, mine has 2 leds, green and blue. Green=power, blue=activity. Steady blue when remote is powered on = control link. Since your version is with 1 led only, it might act just as simple "power on" light.
Hi guys, I have a pro with old motors. And I will be installing the bird side mod this weekend. I sent Tony a Email on which antenna is the video. And he sad the left rear. I emailed him back and asked if that was with the battery facing you. Well I guess he did not get that one, no reply.
So can anyone tell me where the antennas can be identified??? I am rely confused on which legs has video and which has RC.
Can you guys help ? Thanks.
So can anyone tell me where the antennas can be identified??? I am rely confused on which legs has video and which has RC.
Can you guys help ? Thanks.
Click the **** link i just posted - to get picture of the bird lol, it goes straight to the picture where all legs are numbered and explained.
Each amp has 2 leds, blue and white. Manual says blue light should be blinking, but I could never see it blinking unless I video record it and lower the exposure. Not sure if this is good or bad.
That's what I need help with. I'd like to know if I'm doing anything wrong...or if this is normal.
I haven't been able to push the limits with this setup just yet (connected to DBS antenna mod), but with the limited amount of flying I've had with it, signal seems to be stronger. I'm in a very wi-fi congested area and in a community where homes are built close to each other.
Im pretty sure you are ok, when i had 2 amps connected before birdside mod, the other one was blinking so fast, it was also hard to tell. Those are new 3w versions?
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I have the older silver Sunhans amps for my P2V setup. Each amp has two lamps, one green and one blue. If the amp has current, the green lamp lights up. The blue lamp will stay off unless there is RF moving to/through the amp. Once there is RF moving to/through the amp, the blue lamp will light up.
The question seems to be the blinking. From what I can tell in the manual and reading online, the blue lamp should blink intermittently indicating signal is moving through. And that is what I remember. I even looked it up on youtube and it showed a P2V Tx and RE with both amps and both amps were blinking intermittently.
But my 5.8 amp is now a solid blue. Was it always solid blue? I don't think so. Is it supposed to be solid blue? I don't think so. I even checked it in the dark to make sure it wasn't just blinking super fast, but it's a solid blue.
The 2.4 amp works as it should - the blue light blinking intermittently.
So what is up with the 5.8 amp?
I don't have an inline RF meter - all I have is an EMF meter, so I used that to test. I held the EMF meter 12 inches from the front face of the ITELITE antenna on all these tests. I held the device the same way - with my thumb and index finger holding the bottom side edges of the device.
First I tested it with everything off. It showed an HF energy rating around 1.0 (obviously it is reading energy radiating from other areas of my kitchen).
Then I tested with the P2V+ transmitter on - just the ITELITE antenna connected. No amps. It showed a rating of around 40.
Next I tested with the transmitter on AND the Sunhans 5.8 amp powered up and with the solid blue lamp. The rating now is 1827. That is the maximum number, it won't go any higher.
So my conclusion is the blue lamp indicates the amp is working correctly whether it is intermittent blue or solid blue.
One other thing: the energy coming from the ITELITE was reading higher if I held the device slightly below the face of the antenna rather than directly in front of the face of the antenna.
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