100% untouched. Uploaded directly from the SD card. Sky, clouds, colors everything was spot on and needed no touch up at all.
SRP ND8/CP sample video from today.
- Thread starter prostreetcamaro
- Start date
No, you don't have to and I would never had purchased it if that were the case. The gimbal holds it well. My horizon is also straight with it on. No issues...
I am newer to the multis and looking to add a good filter. I am not great at photography and wondering what might be the best all round filter? Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated as well as suggested camera settings.
I'd like to know your exact settings too. Is this a P3A or a P3P camera? What was this shot at? 1080p 60fps? LOG color or standard? Manual settings or auto?
Need more info because YouTube compresses also....
Video looks very smooth though. Very fluid. I'm impressed.
Here is my test footage with my P3A, my horizon is straight. The gimbal doesn't need any counter balance.
Log setting (post production), manual setting 1080 60fps
Sharpness -2
Contrast -2
Saturation -1
still playing with settings
what do you think?
Yes, the op needs to do a cold imu and gimbal calibration(on a level surface). It has nothing to do with the added weight on the gimbal.
I'm sorry but I don't get it. I wish it was more clear to me but it's not. Can someone help me here? I just received my SRP ND8/CP and 16. I put it on and and set it on my balcony (props off) and just snapped some pix. Definitely a huge improvement. I'm attaching a picture which I only did extremely minor lightroom edit but wanted to keep it mostly the same. My camera settings were all set at zero for this picture. Meaning 0 contrast, 0 sharpness, etc..
I don't understand how you dial it in. When I look through the lens and turn it, I don't see any differences. What am I looking for? So what differences do you see when rotating the ND/CP to find that "sweet spot"?
Here is the link which has the info you seek
Hope this helps, I'm still trying to find it and better my post production techniques
http://www.snakeriverprototyping.com/p3-series-instructions#Assembly
Position the lens while looking at your computer screen or cell phone. You should see the len's change from light to dark. Also if you flip the len's to the other side(polarized) you'll see the color change as you move the filter... Hope this helps. I'm sure someone else will chime in and explain in detail.
Couple questions:
1) Do you guys ever use the SRP filter when taking pictures? Or only video?
2) I noticed that when I take pictures I have a bit of a black vignette.
Also, the gimbal is WAY out of whack when the SRP filter is in place, like the Phantom has no idea the gimbal is a lot heavier (I imagine it's not designed for weight differences). It seems that you really can only take video moving forward/backward and up/down (no side to side as this is where the gimbal cant catch up).
3) When trying to find the right rotation when looking at a computer monitor, I assume you want it where the screen looks completely black, right?
4) Are there camera settings that work best in most situations when using the SRP filter? If so, what do you recommend? I'm having a hard time finding a sweet spot for settings and it's really hard to tell out in the field, even with a sun shade.
1) Do you guys ever use the SRP filter when taking pictures? Or only video?
2) I noticed that when I take pictures I have a bit of a black vignette.
Also, the gimbal is WAY out of whack when the SRP filter is in place, like the Phantom has no idea the gimbal is a lot heavier (I imagine it's not designed for weight differences). It seems that you really can only take video moving forward/backward and up/down (no side to side as this is where the gimbal cant catch up).
3) When trying to find the right rotation when looking at a computer monitor, I assume you want it where the screen looks completely black, right?
4) Are there camera settings that work best in most situations when using the SRP filter? If so, what do you recommend? I'm having a hard time finding a sweet spot for settings and it's really hard to tell out in the field, even with a sun shade.
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1) Yes... absolutely
2) I've not noticed this but make sure the filter is seating all the way - pushed on as far as possible so it's not hanging off the lens 1/8 inch or something.
I now have 55-60 flights with SRP filters. I haven't noticed any issues or differences with the gimbal with or without a filter attached. As for the gimbal being designed for weight differences... absolutely it is. IMHO....Think about how much wind or force in created on the gimbal while flying at say 20-30mph. (I've had mine top out at 51mph) Add to that a moderate but normal random atmospheric wind at say 8-12 mph. These two combined create WAY MORE weight or force for the gimbal to contend with than does a 7g filter. My gimbal responds the same to every and all types of flight maneuvers....with or without a filter attached.
3) Yes. However I prefer to look through it at the sky, on location, while turning it to find the sweet spot... but that's just me.
4) Using a CP will darken and saturate the sky more so you may try backing the saturation and contrast down a bit. An ND decreases the amount of light so I'd check my ISO with an ND to be sure my ISO doesn't have to go above 400 for proper exposure. I've notice that ISO 400 and above on the P3 camera introduces quite a bit of unacceptable noise. So I'd remove the ND if your environment is getting darker so your ISO stays at 100-200.
Regardless, here's my camera settings with or without a filter....
LOG color profile
-2 Sharpness
-3 Contrast
-2 Saturation
Manual WB depending on lighting. Usually right around 5000K
2) I've not noticed this but make sure the filter is seating all the way - pushed on as far as possible so it's not hanging off the lens 1/8 inch or something.
I now have 55-60 flights with SRP filters. I haven't noticed any issues or differences with the gimbal with or without a filter attached. As for the gimbal being designed for weight differences... absolutely it is. IMHO....Think about how much wind or force in created on the gimbal while flying at say 20-30mph. (I've had mine top out at 51mph) Add to that a moderate but normal random atmospheric wind at say 8-12 mph. These two combined create WAY MORE weight or force for the gimbal to contend with than does a 7g filter. My gimbal responds the same to every and all types of flight maneuvers....with or without a filter attached.
3) Yes. However I prefer to look through it at the sky, on location, while turning it to find the sweet spot... but that's just me.
4) Using a CP will darken and saturate the sky more so you may try backing the saturation and contrast down a bit. An ND decreases the amount of light so I'd check my ISO with an ND to be sure my ISO doesn't have to go above 400 for proper exposure. I've notice that ISO 400 and above on the P3 camera introduces quite a bit of unacceptable noise. So I'd remove the ND if your environment is getting darker so your ISO stays at 100-200.
Regardless, here's my camera settings with or without a filter....
LOG color profile
-2 Sharpness
-3 Contrast
-2 Saturation
Manual WB depending on lighting. Usually right around 5000K
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