Setting up the Futaba T8FGS (or 14SG) with the P2

[Pilot_FML]

OK-does it have a "bind" button on the receiver?
I had to install a futaba receiver into my P1.2(just before 1.1.1). I went with the FHSS Futaba T8J at the time.

I've had no reason to open up the V111 shell to do any mods yet so I really don't know. The V111 doesn't have an external bind button like (I think) some later versions of the Phantom have.

I'm assuming the last link in my prior post should give you the answer to your question. I'm holding back getting into the details of binding a Futaba Tx to my receiver until Ian confirms what if any other big changes are needed to bind to my Rx.

Just out of curiosity, any idea on how the FHSS and FASST Tx's differ?

 

[havasuphoto]

Don't really know the difference between the 2. But-I can tell you that my distance record for the P1 with Futaba receiver and T8J-FHSS=1625M.
My record so far with the P2, stock phantom 2 receiver(FAAST), and 14SGH is 2002M, and never lost R/C contract. I regularly fly out to 1800+M w/o any issues.
So, in my opinion the FAAST has more range....but, that may be due to a lot of factors.

 

[Pilot_FML]

Don't really know the difference between the 2. But-I can tell you that my distance record for the P1 with Futaba receiver and T8J-FHSS=1625M.
My record so far with the P2, stock phantom 2 receiver(FAAST), and 14SGH is 2002M, and never lost R/C contract. I regularly fly out to 1800+M w/o any issues.
So, in my opinion the FAAST has more range....but, that may be due to a lot of factors.

I'm still comfortable only at much closer in distances... making the jump to FPV will be difficult for me because it's so ingrained in me to want to look up and see the quad for a bunch of reasons.

How do you come by the ranges you note? Is it just flying out until fail-safe engages?

If your interested, here's a "FASST features" link I stumbled across on the Futaba website. I'm not sure how other versions of Rx's compare or whether the price jump warrants getting FASST. Many of the features listed address interference, error checking, etc., more so than range... http://www.futaba-rc.com/technology/fasst.html

 

[havasuphoto]

Yes-I'm familiar with the features....
I don't go out to Fail Safe. I just happen to know the area I fly over from the air very well due to my previous job flying the helicopter for the local hospital(EMS).
So, when I look through my goggles, I know exactly where I am at all times. Plus-I trust the information on the iOSD mini screen.
Remember-altitude is your friend.

Start by going out around 600m, beyond visual, and return-and just work you way out to different distances. Get familiar with the landmarks you see like roads, etc. That way you can find your way back, w/o having to use the "diamond" home point that is featured on the screen with the iOSD mini.

Also-If/when the aircraft enters fail safe, and turns around and starts flying home, hold your remote above your head, and flip to Atti mode-sometimes you can take control right away. Other times, you have to wait for the FS to disappear from the screen-then you can flip to atti and back to gps if you like and fly the aircraft back. Or, turn around and go farther out.

If you ever lose video signal, immediately flip to Fail Safe....let the aircraft return to video range, then take control. Get a Helical Antenna and learn to be able to turn it, while under goggles-you need to aim those antenna's.

It all boils down to how comfortable you are in flying your aircraft strictly by reference to the screen, or in my case, goggles.

It takes some practice. But now, I just launch and let the aircraft climb in GPS mode until I put on my goggles, switch to Attitude, sit back in my chair(I don't stand), full forward on the right stick, and away I go.

You can even practice your "approach" on goggles. Use the center chevron on the iOSD mini display-and practice maintaining that spot over your landing area as you approach and descend. watch you speed, and rate of descent. I usually stop 5M in front of me, and 10M over head, turn the aircraft 180 degree's, make sure it's in GPS and not descending and remove my goggles for landing. the aircraft is always right in front of me, waiting for me to land it.

It can be very challenging and scary, especially when you're way up in the mountains, or flying over the top of a mountain. If something goes wrong-you will never recover the aircraft. Same with flying over water. I do it-because I live next to a Lake. But, I don't like it-you don't have much sensation of speed or altitude, so you really need to rely on the numbers on the iOSD mini. Also remember the altitude on the Mini is the altitude above your take off point, not the terrain-so you need to take that into account when mountain flying.

If you don't have the mini-don't try this at home!!! I've done 100's of flights-all beyond visual range, plus, I was an instrument rated helicopter pilot for over20 years, so I'm used to flying by reference to "numbers", and I don't get confused by what I see on the screen, picture wise. meaning I can fly with the camera pointed straight down, and maintain level flight and course, w/o seeing where I'm going.
Also-always be able to point to the aircraft while flying beyond visual. If you can't do that-stop, turn around, and figure out where the aircraft is. You always need to know exactly where you are.

If you plan on getting over larger aircraft-either the 8FGS or the 14 SGH will do just fine. I think I spent about $550? maybe more, for my 14SGH w/receiver. But-I have a larger hex I fly with it too......so that remote can be used with pretty much all the aircraft I have.
I did buy a used 8FG, upgraded the firmware to the Super, but had to return it because it couldn't be calibrated. The potentiometers on the right stick were just off or worn out....dunno, but the seller refunded my money.
The remote you buy is an investment. They really don't go down that much in price, and in the used market-they sell right away.

But-anytime you say Futaba; it gets expensive.

 

[RoryG]

Just got a T8FG Super from Ebay for £200 and loaded Ian's profile - excellent stuff, thank you! I have a 14SG but as I use it for my fixed wing and glider models I didn't want to spring centre the throttle, so the 8FG is dedicated to my P2 (and F550 when I get it... ). The centring throttle mod on the 8FG is simply a case of removing the back plate from the left gimbal, no parts required. I reduced the ratchet tension on the sliders while I was in there, much smoother now.

It's pouring down today so no chance of getting out with the P2 and 8FG - tomorrow looking better though

Cheers,

Rory

 

[havasuphoto]

I'm used to and prefer the non-self centering throttle(s). none of my remotes have it(except the stock P2 remote I don't use).
I use the throttle curve profile on page 1. It's all about preference.
The aircraft will bind with and start up, regardless of if the throttle is in the center position, or all the way down-FYI.

 

[wkf94025]

Agree with everything havasuphoto posted re BVR flying "under the hood". Really fun stuff once you get comfortable past LOS and flying by the numbers. Completely agree with need to return by visual landmarks, in event GPS goes out. And flipping RTH if video goes out. No shame in that at all. Best way home once "blind".

The 14SG is worth it, in my opinion. So many options on switches, knobs, and sliders, and programmability for pan, tilt, circular pan, etc. I use mine with centered left stick for both Phantoms and Radian Pro glider. Versatile, reliable radio, and the R7008SB receiver that comes with it is among the best out there, except for lack of RSSI, and its replacement cost.

Kelly

 

[Pilot_FML]

Yes-I'm familiar with the features....
I don't go out to Fail Safe. I just happen to know the area I fly over from the air very well due to my previous job flying the helicopter for the local hospital(EMS).
So, when I look through my goggles, I know exactly where I am at all times. Plus-I trust the information on the iOSD mini screen.
Remember-altitude is your friend.

Start by going out around 600m, beyond visual, and return-and just work you way out to different distances. Get familiar with the landmarks you see like roads, etc. That way you can find your way back, w/o having to use the "diamond" home point that

...................................

If you plan on getting over larger aircraft-either the 8FGS or the 14 SGH will do just fine. I think I spent about $550? maybe more, for my 14SGH w/receiver. But-I have a larger hex I fly with it too......so that remote can be used with pretty much all the aircraft I have.
I did buy a used 8FG, upgraded the firmware to the Super, but had to return it because it couldn't be calibrated. The potentiometers on the right stick were just off or worn out....dunno, but the seller refunded my money.
The remote you buy is an investment. They really don't go down that much in price, and in the used market-they sell right away.

But-anytime you say Futaba; it gets expensive.

Your post really "hit home" on many of the things that I've wondered about FPV AND it's a really an excellent overview of key FPV "nice-to-knows". Thanks for sharing these insights . . . . Your tips about what to do in different scenarios was especially helpful. Coming from an engineering and aviation background, better helps me understand how well thought out your flying procedures are. I worked with Blackhawk pilots when I was at Sikorsky that gave me some really good practical experience about flying. Learning to fly heli's (in my opinion) is specializing in an art form and its no where near what goes on in fixed wings.

I have to admit that I'm intrigued about FPV and that curiosity will get me there one day. If there were only a good solution to my particular situation, I'd probably already be experimenting with it. Both types of video platforms (goggles or OSD) have some big downsides for me. I wear glasses and although even after actually trying some goggles (Zeiss??) with adjustable inner lenses, I still wasn't able to clearly see what was displayed. The other alternative (OSD) may be better for me (I could always look up when the bird got closer to me), but every screen I've seen is seriously washed out by sunlight. Sun shades only seem to fix part of the problem but still leave no where near even a moderately crystal clear view of the transmitted video. I've had success in adding an anti-glare film over both my laptop and Nexus 7 tablet, so that might also work with an OSD.

 

[havasuphoto]

What type of corrective lenses do you require? So of the Fatshark goggle have diopter inserts-for lack of a better term. But-depending on your eye condition this may not be practical.

The iOSD Mini is a must have accessory for FPV-I wouldn't even attempt BVR w/o it.

As for the sunshades on the monitors-yea, they only work so good, and most of the monitor are identical in the 7" size range; I.E. they all use the exact same screen and it's junk.
That being said-here's what I do; I fly early in the morning, when the sun is low on the horizon. I park my SUV so that's it is blocking the sun and produces the most usable amount of shade possible.

I sit in a chair when flying FPV; I place my chair and monitor on tripod in the shade, right next to each other. That way, when I'm on goggles, I can reach to my right and up, and adjust my helical antenna w/o having to take the glasses off. That's just muscle memory and knowing exactly where the monitor is.
Another method is to attach your FPV monitor to your remote. This way-you turn your body so it blocks the sun-giving you the shade you need to see the monitor.

So-in the Morning, middle of Summer here-the sun tends to be more East than South East. This means I will be facing North to North East-always. And my flights will be away from the Sun.
With the Goggles, you could face directly into the Sun and still see-but, they get hot. They're black, and they tend to heat up just because the screen get warm...add on the sun, and you'll have sweat running into your eyes and the goggle fogging up in no time.
A note on Fogging; it will happen. Use Rain-X Anti Fog on Glass lenses-and get goggles that have glass lenses. When you're flying and the goggle fog up-reach up with a free hand and pull them away from your eyes back and fourth to circulation a little air-this will quickly clear the fog.

 

[RoryG]

I had a couple of flights with the 8FG today and I'm really impressed. Overall there's a much more "locked in" feel, the P2'seems much more responsive than with the stock Tx. The triple rate switch is great for getting nice, slow and even pans, and circling a POI is so much easier. It was quite windy, 15mph with gusts but I had no issues and the Tx and Phantom 2 performed extremely well. One delighted pilot

I'll post a video up later on, just wish I'd taken the plunge and replaced the Tx sooner!

Cheers,

Rory

 

[RoryG]

Here's a video shot yesterday from my first couple of flights with the T8FG. It was quite windy so the pans aren't quite as smooth as they could be, but overall control is so much better with the Futaba Tx.

http://vimeo.com/103088311

Cheers,

Rory

 

[Pilot_FML]

What type of corrective lenses do you require? So of the Fatshark goggle have diopter inserts-for lack of a better term. But-depending on your eye condition this may not be practical.

The iOSD Mini is a must have accessory for FPV-I wouldn't even attempt BVR w/o it.

. . . . . . . .

With the Goggles, you could face directly into the Sun and still see-but, they get hot. They're black, and they tend to heat up just because the screen get warm...add on the sun, and you'll have sweat running into your eyes and the goggle fogging up in no time.
A note on Fogging; it will happen. Use Rain-X Anti Fog on Glass lenses-and get goggles that have glass lenses. When you're flying and the goggle fog up-reach up with a free hand and pull them away from your eyes back and fourth to circulation a little air-this will quickly clear the fog.

The FPV googles, I recently tried also had the adjustable lenses (any combination of which) still only gave marginal improvement to how well I could see the display. I think the astigmatism in my vision complicates any correction beyond that which these lenses can handle.

I admire the steps you take to minimize glare on your screens (or to keep proper antenna orientations) but for me that adds a lot restrictions that really detract from flying when and where I want. All of your workarounds would simply go away when some new technology cures the "simple" problem of having a bright clear screen in direct sunlight.

Goggles (as opposed to an osd) would seem to me to be a much more fun way to fly but I'm really surprised how heat build-ups, fogging and sweating are still problems. Maybe it's where you fly but goggles getting hot is something I hadn't heard about before.If they could cure some of these problems more quickly, I'd jump into FPV tomorrow....

 

[havasuphoto]

Goggles get hot because they're mini TV screens in front of your eyes. So just like any CRT screen, they get warm.
Where I live, the daytime temps can get over 120 deg's F. So, shade is necessary. Even in the Winter-I still prefer sitting in the shade.
some people prefer to stand while flying; I wouldn't recommend that with the goggles.

The goggles do not give you any better/clearer picture than is on your monitor-in fact, it may be slightly worse. But, for me it's more comfortable sitting back in my chair with my feet up on a box, than leaning forward trying to watch on a 7" monitor that's up on a tripod 4+ feet in the air. Remember-you want your antenna's up pretty high.
So, with the Fatshark Base goggles, you can be anywhere you want-even inside your car(I do a lot of flying in the Winter here inside my car), as long as the monitor/receiver and antenna's have a clear line of sight.

 

[Xrover]

I would like to slow down the Yaw rate on my Phantom 2 H3-3D. I have the Futaba T8FGS using the stock Phantom 2 receiver.
When i attempt to perform a slow Yaw, The Phantom Yaw's too quickly.

Is there a setting I can do on my Futaba to slow it down?

 

[havasuphoto]

I would like to slow down the Yaw rate on my Phantom 2 H3-3D. I have the Futaba T8FGS using the stock Phantom 2 receiver.
When i attempt to perform a slow Yaw, The Phantom Yaw's too quickly.

Is there a setting I can do on my Futaba to slow it down?

Load the profile in page 1-instructions are in the post. Use the middle switch position after take-off, for triple rate control; that has reduced yaw rates.
You can also use the LD to yaw the aircraft at a slow rate...just be sure you read ALL of the instructions, and label you switches an knobs.

 

[PhantomPhreak]

I would like to slow down the Yaw rate on my Phantom 2 H3-3D. I have the Futaba T8FGS using the stock Phantom 2 receiver.
When i attempt to perform a slow Yaw, The Phantom Yaw's too quickly.

Is there a setting I can do on my Futaba to slow it down?

Load the profile in page 1-instructions are in the post. Use the middle switch position after take-off, for triple rate control; that has reduced yaw rates.
You can also use the LD to yaw the aircraft at a slow rate...just be sure you read ALL of the instructions, and label you switches an knobs.

Does the 14SG profile have these same functions?

 

[havasuphoto]

Yes-they're identical. This is the profile I have loaded on my 14SGH

 

[PhantomPhreak]

Yes-they're identical. This is the profile I have loaded on my 14SGH

Thanks for quick reply. Next time out I will try the other options. Still learning something new every day..

 

[havasuphoto]

Yes-they're identical. This is the profile I have loaded on my 14SGH

Thanks for quick reply. Next time out I will try the other options. Still learning something new every day..

Just make sure the LD yaw trim is always centered-turn the dial and listen for the beep that it's centered.

 

[Pilot_FML]

Goggles get hot because they're mini TV screens in front of your eyes. So just like any CRT screen, they get warm.
Where I live, the daytime temps can get over 120 deg's F. So, shade is necessary. Even in the Winter-I still prefer sitting in the shade.
some people prefer to stand while flying; I wouldn't recommend that with the goggles.

The goggles do not give you any better/clearer picture than is on your monitor-in fact, it may be slightly worse. But, for me it's more comfortable sitting back in my chair with my feet up on a box, than leaning forward trying to watch on a 7" monitor that's up on a tripod 4+ feet in the air. Remember-you want your antenna's up pretty high.
So, with the Fatshark Base goggles, you can be anywhere you want-even inside your car(I do a lot of flying in the Winter here inside my car), as long as the monitor/receiver and antenna's have a clear line of sight.

Those kind of temperatures bring back memories of when I was in the service stationed in Tucson. Summer there was not one of my favorite times…. especially on the flight-line.

FPV goggles have been out a while so you’d think fogging and heat build-up problems would have been worked out by now. I guess, like in all goggles, getting good ventilation is tough especially if the air moving past you is hardly moving.