Remote control camera shutter button stopped working

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Hi all,
I have a not very old dji phantom 3 advanced and when i got it all worked perfectly.
On my 4th flight i had it on camera and was using the remotes shutter button to take photo's when on about the 5th photo it didn't take the pic so i pushed the button again and the button its self clicked but it never took a picture so i pressed the button on the monitor and that worked so then pushed the button on the remote again nothing happened.
I Then pressed the video button on the remote and that worked fine so pressed the camera shutter again nothing happened the camera shutter button its self it still making its clicking sound when pressed it just wont take a picture.
I watch a guy on youtube and told him what happened and he said he had similar issues with his till he updated his firmware and it fixed it.
tonight i turned mine on as i've not flown it since xmas and it said it needed the firmware updating i wondered if doing so would fix it so i updated the remote and the drone both successfully but my camera shutter button still wont work.
I searched google for a similar prob to see what they did to fix it but couldn't find anything on the topic so i joined your forum to see if any of you could help me with it as google has lead me to this forum many times befor today and this forum has helped me so much in the past so a big thanks for that.
Can you please help me with this or do i arrange for dji to come get it and have it fixed under warenty, witch worries me a lot as when i had my last drone a p3s it had one motor that was a bit dodgy from new and because id landed it in grass that had a few tall bits that the props grabbed and it flipped it onto its top they never even looked at the motor they said it had marks on it that wouldn't come off (it was grass stains) and that it had been badly crashed (i sent them the video of the land roll over) and called it a right off and said they would knock $50 off an advance but they wanted to keep mine.
I said no thanks send it back and they wanted $75 for the repairer to tell me it had grass stains and was a right off befor they would send it back, after a month of bs i got it back and it flew grate the truck ride must have shook the motor and fixed it so am hoping i dont have to get warenty work done as i'm positive its a mum and pop back yard chop shop with some of the stories i've read.
this drones never been crashed i now catch it in the air
thanks in advance for any help given regard's.
Ps. sorry i can't spell or use grammar i'm right brained dominant and becouse of the way i see out my eyes i couldn't learn to spell or use grammar 15% of the world are the same as me and it has nothing what so ever to do with our intelligence level not that you could tell by the abuse i get from left brained ppl that can spell and use grammar thank you.
 
Ok, take a deep breath and before you do anything, let's check out a few things. First, how many pictures did you take in those first 4 flights and how big is your SD card? Simplest answer may be that your card is full! Make sure that you have saved to your computer or laptop any imagery that you want to keep and then reformat the SD using the app. Doing it in your computer doesn't always reset the file pointers and can give you erroneous readings. If you still have the problem with a newly formatted card, then you can start worrying about a mechanical or firmware problem.
 
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I've had my shutter button out of a P4 transmitter box. P3 might be about the same design.

The outside button itself is attached to the case on a flexible rubber piece. That rubber piece pushes on the small micro-swtich button on a screwed down circuit board where a flexible ribbon cable goes over to a connection jack on the main board and it clamps down by a flip lock like those used on the HDMI add-on unit. Could be the ribbon cable needs to be re-seated on the main board. It's only about 4-5mm wide. The "clicky part" when pressed comes from the micro-swtich part and mine had four terminals on it soldered to the circuit boar it rests on. Switch itself is about half the size of a pencil eraser and the four connections are very small too. I had to solder onto mine with a iron that has a tip about the size of a pencil lead that was meant for surface-mounted component work (Scratch brush it first, then use some flux, and then use a silver bearing solder in the smallest 30 gauge area if the connection is broken, and wash off flux with electrical cleaner.).

Photo below is the shutter switch itself and you can see where I re-soldered to it on the right. Ribbon cable exits on the left.

Good luck.

Closeup of soldering to switch.jpg
 
Ok, take a deep breath and before you do anything, let's check out a few things. First, how many pictures did you take in those first 4 flights and how big is your SD card? Simplest answer may be that your card is full! Make sure that you have saved to your computer or laptop any imagery that you want to keep and then reformat the SD using the app. Doing it in your computer doesn't always reset the file pointers and can give you erroneous readings. If you still have the problem with a newly formatted card, then you can start worrying about a mechanical or firmware problem.
I'ts a 32 gig card i empty it after every flight and reformat it, it had 4 pic's on it and befor that 3 min's of video.Thanks for the reply.
 
I've had my shutter button out of a P4 transmitter box. P3 might be about the same design.

The outside button itself is attached to the case on a flexible rubber piece. That rubber piece pushes on the small micro-swtich button on a screwed down circuit board where a flexible ribbon cable goes over to a connection jack on the main board and it clamps down by a flip lock like those used on the HDMI add-on unit. Could be the ribbon cable needs to be re-seated on the main board. It's only about 4-5mm wide. The "clicky part" when pressed comes from the micro-swtich part and mine had four terminals on it soldered to the circuit boar it rests on. Switch itself is about half the size of a pencil eraser and the four connections are very small too. I had to solder onto mine with a iron that has a tip about the size of a pencil lead that was meant for surface-mounted component work (Scratch brush it first, then use some flux, and then use a silver bearing solder in the smallest 30 gauge area if the connection is broken, and wash off flux with electrical cleaner.).

Photo below is the shutter switch itself and you can see where I re-soldered to it on the right. Ribbon cable exits on the left.

Good luck.

View attachment 75546
Thanks for the reply.
 
hell no dji said its a warenty job this is were it go's in to be stripped off all its good parts and replaced with a wreck from the dji chop shop not happy
 
Ok, take a deep breath and before you do anything, let's check out a few things. First, how many pictures did you take in those first 4 flights and how big is your SD card? Simplest answer may be that your card is full! Make sure that you have saved to your computer or laptop any imagery that you want to keep and then reformat the SD using the app. Doing it in your computer doesn't always reset the file pointers and can give you erroneous readings. If you still have the problem with a newly formatted card, then you can start worrying about a mechanical or firmware problem.
Thank you Richard R for the post. I realize this is an old thread, and I am thankful they are available. My P3A quit taking pics or videos, and your post caused me to look at my sd card,,,,,which still plugged in to my desktop . I had forgotten to put it back in the drone after viewing the last flight. :rolleyes:
Thanks again to all who contribute their knowledge and experience to this forum. Some of us need all the help we can get.
"Growing old is not bad, it's just very inconvenient sometimes"
 
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