printing photos??
- Thread starter Dazzauk
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Daz: Putting in the effort to learn the basics about cropping a still image is worth the effort. It’s much simpler than flying a drone or learning how to use manual camera settings.
TVs and computer monitors have changed format over recent times towards widescreen. I’m continuing to use a non-widescreen monitor for my desktop that is specially designed for working with colour stills - but that’s unusual and simply because it’s a specialist professional monitor set up for accurate colour work. Everything else I use is widescreen.
I would suggest you try to work with basic A4 and A3 sizes. Frames are easier to buy at these standards, and cheaper. If you did want to create a custom size picture, first crop, then in any Epson print software, simply scroll down to find “custom” (adding your own desired size values).
To get a more professional look, consider leaving some white space around your printed image. As a general guide, there should be more white space at the bottom. You could also add a caption or name if the photographic image is good enough.
Although this might be considered a personal preference by some, don’t think that high gloss paper is the way to go because there are other, better, options.
TVs and computer monitors have changed format over recent times towards widescreen. I’m continuing to use a non-widescreen monitor for my desktop that is specially designed for working with colour stills - but that’s unusual and simply because it’s a specialist professional monitor set up for accurate colour work. Everything else I use is widescreen.
I would suggest you try to work with basic A4 and A3 sizes. Frames are easier to buy at these standards, and cheaper. If you did want to create a custom size picture, first crop, then in any Epson print software, simply scroll down to find “custom” (adding your own desired size values).
To get a more professional look, consider leaving some white space around your printed image. As a general guide, there should be more white space at the bottom. You could also add a caption or name if the photographic image is good enough.
Although this might be considered a personal preference by some, don’t think that high gloss paper is the way to go because there are other, better, options.
Thanks for the info buddy.
Interested in what paper is a better option. ?
I also like the border look, I am struggling to find how to do it. My Epson Software has a border option but it seems I need to download a pif frame or something lol?
Do you think cropping a 4:3 is better than shooting in 16:9?
Thanks
Daz
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Hi daz, don't forget boots chemist does pics. You don't have to pay for to use it, but whack the SD card in there, look at the pics , one in 4:3 and the other in 16:9 and see how it looks. That way I am sure it will tell you on screen what size the pics will be and how they look before you print. Then note that down and go from there. Also photo shop gives a much better option if you have that. I personally use Photoshop 9. You can get that brand new for around £5 on eBay. Never releaized how powerful this software is. Its not like the phone app version at all. This thing is the nuts.
Since there are few, if any, 16:9 print sizes...no. As I said earlier 16:9 is just a crop of 4:3, so shoot in 4:3 and crop it yourself.
The P4P offers a 3:2 aspect ratio which is actually the largest in terms of pixel count. Both 4:3 and 16:9 are both cropped.
3:2 Aspect Ratio: 5472 × 3648
4:3 Aspect Ratio: 4864 × 3648
16:9 Aspect Ratio: 5472 × 3078
3:2 Aspect Ratio: 5472 × 3648
4:3 Aspect Ratio: 4864 × 3648
16:9 Aspect Ratio: 5472 × 3078
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I never used lightroom to be honest. YouTube Photoshop 9 and you will get a good idea how powerful it is. Also YouTube Photoshop 9 photo editing too [emoji4]
Daz: Epson Photo Quality InkJet Paper is good. Matte Heavyweight is better, but costs more. Begin with the former. Available in packs of 100 sheets. Jessops will likely stock it. Be careful handling at all times because it will crease, even in the cardboard pack. And allow 48 hours minimum for the ink to dry before framing.
Matte will tend to give you lower contrast.
I’ve not had good luck with the longevity of ink jet prints. But maybe the ink has improved.
Modern ink and paper for mid and highend-printers typically have a combined longevity of 70-200 years if framed properly, so that is not much of an issue for most uses.
Switching between DSLRs (4:3) and point-and-shoot/phone cameras (16:9) teaches you real quick to frame your shots wide to crop the any way you need.
If your talking about a full frame DSLR the aspect ratio is 3:2 (24 by 36mm frame). 16:9 isn’t compact either. Compact micro 4/3 and 645 are 4:3.
I use Qimage Ultimate to print and to run my six printers and rolls and sheets of paper (2 Canons, 3 Epsons, 1 Brother.). Runs with either Windows or Mac (They just added the Mac in the past month or so.). It has a far better sharpening algorithm than Adobe or Epson, imho. You pick the paper size you have and can print to page and it will size as needed, or crop it by moving the edges. It is primarily a printer assistant and will take some learning, but it really works well.
Qimage Ultimate - The Ultimate in Batch Photo Printing Software
Qimage Ultimate - The Ultimate in Batch Photo Printing Software
Epson ink and Matte Heavyweight paper, allowed to dry for five days before mounting/framing, has a brilliant longevity. There is no visible deterioration whatsoever in 20+ years and our Limited Edition Prints are not sold cheaply to say the least. Tomas is correct in what is claimed and is likely true. There are some wonderful papers out there for industry use, but Epson have done extremely well in delivering to a mass-market at a good price.
But, Daz, begin with the other paper choice because there’s always a learning curve. If you want any special photos on your wall or to give as a present, then perhaps consider Matte Heavyweight. And don’t be tempted by cheaper ink companies (at least not for printing photographic images). Tomas’ advice about mid-range (and highend) printers is also good. Run the “nozzle clean” frequently, before any problems show up.
As far as printing your photos doing yourself is not cheaper than going to walmart starting at 9 cents a print and the ink wont run and the image is very good. Ratio depends what you want to do, for standard size prints 4:3 is good but if you wish to make a video montage for your TV and laptop (mine anyways) 16:9 covers all the screen. I shoot in 16:9 because most of my pictures are placed with my videos to produce a combined image/video show, this save me the time to crop all the images I use in my video in order to get the most screen coverage. It really depends on what you will mostly use it for and how much time you want to edit.
You do not print at home to save money. You print at home to have full control of the end result.
I have tried many printers and achieving the best color profiles from different sources is not allways easy. The image is good but your control is limited to the printers capacity. What looks good to you on your printer may not be so good printed on a different printer.
This is why you need a colormanaged workflow where you are working directly against the paper/ink combination on a calibrated monitor.
Again, this is not the cheapest or easiest (by far) rather the potentially best workflow.
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Tomas: It’s obvious you have an appreciation of the need for detail. If you haven’t yet seen the recent simultaneous landing of the two outer rocket boosters of the test launch of Falcon Heavy, see my thread “RTH SpaceX” in the “Off topic” section. I’m sure you’ll love it. It had me in floods of tears. Msinger added the video.
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