P3-Adv controller usb problem

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I just purchased a P3 Adv used from a user that never had it working.
Question #1
When you connect a device to the usb connection on the controller.
Does the device show that the battery in device is being charged?
I ask due to questioning if the usb on this controller is broken.

Question #2
Can you link controller to P3 without the app?

Thanks in advance

-eddy
 
I just purchased a P3 Adv used from a user that never had it working.
Question #1
When you connect a device to the usb connection on the controller.
Does the device show that the battery in device is being charged?
I ask due to questioning if the usb on this controller is broken.

Question #2
Can you link controller to P3 without the app?

Thanks in advance

-eddy

Welcome to the forum!

1/ The USB socket on the RC does not charge the phone or tablet.
2/ Yes you can fly the AC without the GO app, but it'd be somewhat daft to do so. The GO app gives vital flying, AC and battery status information, together with significant control and management over the AC and camera. I'm interested; why would you want to do this?
 
Seems like the USB port on the controller is broken. Others with the same problem have upgraded to the board with HDMI output and have fixed the problem. Right now the P3 is giving me red lights in the front and fast flashing yellow lights in the back. The controller does control the gimbal. So we have wireless communication between the controller and P3. Just no wired communication between the controller and device. I have used multiple cables and devices. From an iPhone 6 to an iPad air 2 to a Nvidia Shield android tablet. I would love to be able to fly the P3 without the app. I can't currently see a way to link the controller to the P3 advanced without the app. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Seems like the USB port on the controller is broken. Others with the same problem have upgraded to the board with HDMI output and have fixed the problem. Right now the P3 is giving me red lights in the front and fast flashing yellow lights in the back. The controller does control the gimbal. So we have wireless communication between the controller and P3. Just no wired communication between the controller and device. I have used multiple cables and devices. From an iPhone 6 to an iPad air 2 to a Nvidia Shield android tablet. I would love to be able to fly the P3 without the app. I can't currently see a way to link the controller to the P3 advanced without the app. Any help would be appreciated.
Hmmm. You have registered on the GO app I presume? The app is installed on the iPad, and you're connecting the iPad to the RC, then turning on the RC and then opening the app? Have you then tried turning on the AC?
Did the seller ever fly the AC? If not, he may not have linked the RC to the AC. If he has, they should be linked. I presume he told you it was working fine, or did you purchase on the basis it was SAS? (sold as seen).
 
I have not registered. I will do that now. Hadn't read anywhere that it was a requirement. I will try the order again after I register. Seller never flew it. I bought it for $250 as is. He proved that the RC would control the gimbal. I'll let you know if registering the app helped.
 
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OK, well you needed to register anyway. I think you'll may need to to relink to the AC.
Well, you made an interesting comment about the seller when you collected the kit. You said..
. "He proved that the RC would control the gimbal."

So, you saw the RC linked to the AC, so the AC was switched on and you saw the camera move up and down when he used the thumwheel on the front of the RC?

Did he start the motors?

Eddy, have you read the manual? If not, that really would be a good place to start. Here's the link...

https://dl.djicdn.com/downloads/phantom_3/en/Phantom_3_Advanced_User_Manual_en_v1.8_160719.pdf

You should also watch all the dji tutorial videos too. There are six in total and this is the link...

Phantom 3 Advanced - Specs, FAQ, Tutorials, Downloads and DJI GO - DJI

Under the first couple of videos under the tutorial heading, there is a link that says "load more" so touch that and the rest will then appear. Start with number one and work your was through them, but don't try to do it all immediately. Once you've watched them, go through them again and practice what "Ty" is instructing.
 
Try a different start up seguence. Aircraft first, then remote then Go app.
 
OK, well you needed to register anyway. I think you'll may need to to relink to the AC.
Well, you made an interesting comment about the seller when you collected the kit. You said..


So, you saw the RC linked to the AC, so the AC was switched on and you saw the camera move up and down when he used the thumwheel on the front of the RC?

Did he start the motors?

Eddy, have you read the manual? If not, that really would be a good place to start. Here's the link...

https://dl.djicdn.com/downloads/phantom_3/en/Phantom_3_Advanced_User_Manual_en_v1.8_160719.pdf

You should also watch all the dji tutorial videos too. There are six in total and this is the link...

Phantom 3 Advanced - Specs, FAQ, Tutorials, Downloads and DJI GO - DJI

Under the first couple of videos under the tutorial heading, there is a link that says "load more" so touch that and the rest will then appear. Start with number one and work your was through them, but don't try to do it all immediately. Once you've watched them, go through them again and practice what "Ty" is instructing.

Page 28 has the instructions on linking. Linking requires the app.
The app and RC aren't communicating. So I don't know how I can link without the app and RC communicating.
 
Question #2
Can you link controller to P3 without the app?

I can't currently see a way to link the controller to the P3 advanced without the app. Any help would be appreciated.

Page 28 has the instructions on linking. Linking requires the app.
The app and RC aren't communicating. So I don't know how I can link without the app and RC communicating.
If you want to try relinking without the app, these are the steps from DJI, though they left out a few things.
[How To Manually Bind]-Adv/Pro AirCraft

Summary. Read first and then do the steps:

1. Turn on the AC and look for a steady red light (from the OFDM) on the side of the VPS module.

2. Turn on the RC and look for a steady red left led on RC. This will also now make the OFDM led on the AC toggle green and red.

3. On the RC, press all at once and HOLD the C1+C2+Video rec buttons. You should hear a beep beep from the RC.

4. Quickly after you hear the beeps on the RC and while continuing to press the other three buttons, also press in the camera setting scroll wheel. The led on RC should then turn flashing blue while beeping.

5. Now you have about 1 minute to press and hold for 2 seconds the small button (next to the OFDM led) on the side of the VPS module on the AC.

6. The LEDs on RC and AC should become steady green and the beeping should stop.

The linking is complete.

Note - Some people say that for #3 you should press and release the buttons. Some say to not release them. As I noted, I have never done this myself so try it both ways.
 
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Question #1
When you connect a device to the usb connection on the controller.
Does the device show that the battery in device is being charged?
-eddy

Both my Nexus 7 (2013) and my Nexus 5x phone show that they are being charged when they are connected to the RC by USB. It's never caused me any problems.

From memory, at least one other person has reported this phenomenon.

RC charging the android device

(Later) Just found another...

Device Cable

A search here may find others.
 
If you want to try relinking without the app, these are the steps.

[How To Manually Bind]-Adv/Pro AirCraft
I just tried and it didn't work.
When I first turn the AC and RC on I get a green light on the AC.
When I push the link button on side of AC the light on RC goes red.
I then do the sequence of button pushing and nothing happens.
I can make a video to show you if you'd like.
 
Both my Nexus 7 (2013) and my Nexus 5x phone show that they are being charged when they are connected to the RC by USB. It's never caused me any problems.

From memory, at least one other person has reported this phenomenon.

RC charging the android device

(Later) Just found another...

Device Cable

A search here may find others.
That makes sense to me. I don't have any other devices to try.
I really don't think it's the cable or the devices. I think I have a bad USB port/board.
 
DJI support just told me to send it in.
These are the instructions that they told me to follow.

Manual Relink
1. Turn on the remote controller and the aircraft
2. Press and hold C1. C2, and the record button until you hear a beep and do not let go. You will hear a beep (D-DD).
3. Press the ISO wheel on the right side of the remote controller and do not let go of any button. The remote controller will begin to beep.
4. Now push the linking button on the aircraft to finish the linking procedure.

You can try to reset the remote controller by doing the following:
1. Turn on the remote controller (leave the aircraft off)
2. Press and hold C1, C2, and the shutter button
3. Turn the remote controller off
4. Turn on the remote controller and release the buttons
5. Turn on the aircraft
6. Re-Link the remote controller and the aircraft
 
---After searching all day to fix the same problem, I found this trick. It solved the "how to connect issue" for my P3A and my Samsung Galaxy Tab A. Just remember...you have to do it every time before you plug in and open Go App. I always turn Debugging off after I reset it to RNDIS before starting app. Hope it works!!! Go to "About Device" and find Build# and tap 5-7 times to unlock "Developer Options" Posted by brian.


Make sure "developer options" is enabled -- Google it to find out how. Leave USB debugging off.

Turn on the RC and the drone then..

Go to the section called "USB configuration" within the developer options and change the setting to "RNDIS".

The Go app may pop up at this point and if "Go Fly" is available then you're all set. If Go Fly is not available go back into USB configuration and try again. It can take a few shots but usually within a couple tries you get the Go Fly option and all is well.

I wish the DJI would fix this as it's a problem that's been around for a while and is not limited to just one tablet or phone. It's unlikely that Samsung is at fault but I don't know that for sure. Seems to me there's a problem negotiating the comm sync and it's my guess that DJI is at fault.
 
My goodness! I hope I am not too late. It is NONE of the above, except your suspicion, @eddyguevara75 , in comment #3.

You have a defective USB module. You will have to replace the one you have with the only available substitute (if not "used" condition) which has more ports, including HDMI. Very expensive at 100USD.

(Based upon the exact same sudden problem (after a year of flawless flying) you describe, and a TITANIC amount of research and experimentation).

[Unrelated Side Comment: This failure is disgusting in many ways and should not ever happen. DJI should acknowledge and adjust, even after warranty, but will not do so. Kind of like Ford Escape random security alarm; their fault, but you pay. Oh, well, at least DJI does great on 99.9% of things.]
 
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I've read a thread before that the USB port comes unsoldered and can be fixed if you know how to solder. Mine is fairly new and haven't had any troubles but if I do I'll take it apart and try to resolder
 
I've read a thread before that the USB port comes unsoldered and can be fixed if you know how to solder. Mine is fairly new and haven't had any troubles but if I do I'll take it apart and try to resolder

Yes, I read and examined for the same thing, though it was apparently a problem for some folks, but not me and (guessing) the majority of people with the disconnected problem.

Mine turned out to be a good solid connection, and the 4 contacts inside the port seemed fine as well. Really close examination of the surface-type solder joints (which are a paste and flow vs a through-the-board mount) showed to be okay.

So...I have to think, but cannot verify, one or more of the several little black circuit components went bad. No smokey or burned appearance, but that is still my bet. I do wish DJI would be more open on this subject, if only to tell us whether we are going in the right direction or on a wild goose chase.
 
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