I just installed the 46mm filter holder bought at IntelligentUAS. It's actually called Part 27 Phantom 2 Vision: Lens Filter Mounting Kit, cost was $15. The fit is great and has a rubber seal. Now I just need to try some filters and see what I can do. At a minimum I will install a filter and lens cover that won't fall off and get lost.
New filter holder install
- Thread starter Quadude
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Last night I took a more DIY approach and glued a 40.5mm to 52mm step-up adapter to the front of the camera ($3.99 from Amazon). I used a thin bead of clear silicone adhesive around the rim of the adapter which holds very nicely but could be cut away with an Exacto blade if needed. Now I've got a UV filter ($4.99) protecting the FC200 lens and a standard 52mm lens cap ($1.75) that won't get lost so easily. I've also bought a circular polarizing filter ($6.99 - I love Amazon!) and I'm looking forward to seeing how it changes the sky and water reflections.
The plus side of this approach is the FC200 is still compatible with the Dronexpert gimbal since the four screws on the bottom are unaffected (From the renderings, it would be compatible with the Rotorpixel gimbal as well)
The plus side of this approach is the FC200 is still compatible with the Dronexpert gimbal since the four screws on the bottom are unaffected (From the renderings, it would be compatible with the Rotorpixel gimbal as well)
EyeUpHigh said:
To make a polarizer work, it shuld be turned to a "proper" position depending on the direction of light. I simply can't figure out how this can be done -- in the air?
EDIT: because FC200 does not have AF, linear polarizer would do as well or as bad as circular.
Adjust on ground first. Something to do while acquiring sats.
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I just received my filter adapter and mounted it last evening. EZ-PZ. But do it on a broad white surface so when the 3mm screws slip from your fingers you won't spend 5 minutes on your shag carpet trying to find them! I ordered mine from 1uas (see previous post here). $15. (+ shipping). I have ordered 46mm filters from B&H. There is only ONE (1) option for filters this small- a set from TIffen (pro quality) that has a polarizer, a 2-stop ND and a graduated ND (also 2 stops). Expensive. But mandatory in my opinion (I am a pro photographer). Haven't tested anything yet as I'm awaiting the filters.
With most "Phantomeers" here shooting during bright daylight conditions at a "normal" 100 iso, a 2-stop filter/polarizer will make a huge difference in your photo/video quality. The filters WON'T fix the mediocre lens or correct the wide-angle cheesy distortion but it will give you more pixels to work with in post- which is mandatory with the Vision's less-than-pro camera. A maxim with ANY digital camera: shoot at least 1 to 2 whole stops UNDER-EXPOSED. In post work you can easily pull-out detail from dark shots/video. When there are no pixels because you've blown them out, you CAN'T add them in P'Shop -or Lightroom.
With most "Phantomeers" here shooting during bright daylight conditions at a "normal" 100 iso, a 2-stop filter/polarizer will make a huge difference in your photo/video quality. The filters WON'T fix the mediocre lens or correct the wide-angle cheesy distortion but it will give you more pixels to work with in post- which is mandatory with the Vision's less-than-pro camera. A maxim with ANY digital camera: shoot at least 1 to 2 whole stops UNDER-EXPOSED. In post work you can easily pull-out detail from dark shots/video. When there are no pixels because you've blown them out, you CAN'T add them in P'Shop -or Lightroom.
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I have an rx-100 with this adapter attached to the rx-100. I believe it will also work on the P2V camera as the measurements lineup for the adhesive part near perfect. All plastic too.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQsWSbFtT7E
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQsWSbFtT7E
hollowneck said:I just received my filter adapter and mounted it last evening. EZ-PZ. But do it on a broad white surface so when the 3mm screws slip from your fingers you won't spend 5 minutes on your shag carpet trying to find them! I ordered mine from 1uas (see previous post here). $15. (+ shipping). I have ordered 46mm filters from B&H. There is only ONE (1) option for filters this small- a set from TIffen (pro quality) that has a polarizer, a 2-stop ND and a graduated ND (also 2 stops). Expensive. But mandatory in my opinion (I am a pro photographer). Haven't tested anything yet as I'm awaiting the filters.
I'm curious if you'll get any vignette from such a small filter. I get some from my 52 mm. I'm sure I didn't get any extra pixels though, lol.
hollowneck said:(I am a pro photographer) A maxim with ANY digital camera: shoot at least 1 to 2 whole stops UNDER-EXPOSED. In post work you can easily pull-out detail from dark shots/video. When there are no pixels because you've blown them out, you CAN'T add them in P'Shop -or Lightroom.
I don't think it's a maxim with any digital camera but I'm not a professional. My experience is that underexposure can add a bunch of other problems, like noise. Also when you underexpose there are fewer steps of tonal value, making dark areas black. That gives less tones for Photoshop to work with when the bright areas are lightened to their proper tones (you can get only one tone from black—black, no matter how many tones were buried in that underexposure). Rich midtone colors are exposed as dark colors, they often lose saturation and chroma (their color quality). When you move them back to their proper tones in the digital darkroom, they rarely have the proper colors, so they need more work.
Bottom line, try for yourself and see what works best for you. I am leary when I see terms like always and any. Holowneck, no disrespect, just another opinion.
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EyeUpHigh said:
I put it on my dronexpert gimbal, and it is too heavy.
The lens mount itself is light, but the Tiffen Filters I bought for it are just to heavy. No they are made of glass, and have a metal ring, so if bet if we could find some cheap plastic ones, then we would be good to go. It doesnt fit on the DE gimbal quiet at good as I hoped. . . which is a bit of a bummer, but good enough to get going. So someone smarter than me needs to figure this out. I hate the washed out video during the high sun times of the day on the pV2!
You've probably already tried this, but manually setting the ISO to 100 and the Exposure Compensation to -1 or -1.3 - rather than auto-everything - can help prevent blown-out highlights.whitelens said:
I just ordered this inexpensive filter lens kit -$12.50 shipped to US- http://www.amazon.com/Bower-VFK46C-5-Pi ... Filter+Kit -
uv, polarizer and nd filter are best for my needs (I have no need for the anti flourescent filter..)- they are made of glass though- I have my eyes on the rotorpixel gimbal- hope it can cope with these- rotorpixel says the gimbal will allow for the filter kit- just hope it can cope with the weight..
uv, polarizer and nd filter are best for my needs (I have no need for the anti flourescent filter..)- they are made of glass though- I have my eyes on the rotorpixel gimbal- hope it can cope with these- rotorpixel says the gimbal will allow for the filter kit- just hope it can cope with the weight..
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