Hey David did you have to modify the tx side of it to get to 1700 ft?
I thought in The stock tx can reach that without a problem
I thought in The stock tx can reach that without a problem
More powerfull repeater?
- Thread starter uncle fester
- Start date
When doing something like that, does it matter where you connect the directional antenna? Do all three connections act the same?
Docooler ARGTek
For those that are using the Docooler. Are you having any problems maintaining a connection? For some reason I'm unable to maintain a solid connection at any range. It will connect just fine, but then the wireless signal strength (inthe DJI app) drops until it disconnects (temporarily). It will reconnect right away, but the cycle continues. My phone maintains a solid and consistent connection to the Docooler, it's the P2V itself that does not seem to like staying connected. Using the stock DJI repeater I have no problems maintaining a connection. I followed the RemE instructions (copied below for others convenience):
"
Overview, what we will do is to first gather the data from your existing Range Extender/Camera network. It will be needed to fill in the boxes in the Router config screens. Armed with that knowledge, we configure the router to mimic your stock extender.
1 - Normally you start with a working Vision WiFi Range Extender setup, power up the extender, the Vision, then your Phone/Pad and go to Settings>WiFi, and connect to the Extender Network.
2 - While still in the phone/pad WiFi settings, touch the (i) info icon to the right of the currently connected Range Extender network. In this information page, jot down the "IP Address", "Router", and the "Search Domains" information.
3 - Now Open the DJI Phone App and go to Settings>General>Binding. In here you will see the "Current Binding" data. Copy down the SSID number, this is the hidden ID of the Vision Camera, note that it's "FC200_the last 6 digits of its MAC address", just good to know. Note - The other instructions I saw had you reset the Extender and then Re-Bind the Camera using the QR Code from the shipping box and the manual (pg16), this should not be necessary if you have a normally working system already as you should be able to just read the current data. I have tried it both ways and it does work to get the Camera's hidden SSID number to show up if that information is blank in this screen for some reason.
Now we will configure the router. But first, I thought I'd mention something about using a second, spare, Range Extender. I was going to get a 2nd extender to modify it with big antennas etc. as others have done. I took the 2nd extender and found that I could bind it to the same Vision using the QR code from the Vision Shipping box (I keep a copy of this QR code in my carry case). The 2nd Extender shows up as a 2nd network on the iPad. So you can carry a spare extender and use one OR the other with no changes needed on the Vision, just connect to the which ever extender you need, each has a unique network name, easy!
Now, back to the Router.
4 - Unpack it and connect its antennas, don't operate it without antennas!
5 - Power it up with its AC adapter, connect a LAN cable to your laptop's LAN port to port 1 of the Router (any port really, except the WAN port).
6 - Open your laptop's browser and type in this URL 192.168.1.254
This should open the router's built-in WLAN Access Point web interface.
7 - We will be only configuring a few items, navigate using the Site Contents bar on the left side of the screen beginning with "Operation Mode". We will NOT use the setup wizard.
8 - Click on "Operation Mode" on the left bar, now select the "Bridge" radio button. Then click on "Apply Change" button at the bottom. It may restart, but don't worry it will come back.
9 - Now click on "Wireless" on the left bar and below that, select "Basic Settings". In here you select "Client" for the mode. for SSID you type in the SSID information from your Vision camera. Check the box near the bottom "Enable Universal Repeater Mode". Lastly in the "SSID of Extended Interface" box type in the name you want this Router Network to show on your Phone/iPad. I chose "Phantom_Ranger" as mine. Now click on apply changes, it may restart, no worries.
10- Now click on "TCP/IP Settings" on the left bar and select "LAN Interface".
IP Address, Enter the info from your phone's "Router" field.
DHCP Client Range, enter the IP address from your Range Extender's WiFi setting as the start range, and a higher address as the end range (doesn't really matter).
Domain Name, enter "lan", then apply changes.
"
For those that are using the Docooler. Are you having any problems maintaining a connection? For some reason I'm unable to maintain a solid connection at any range. It will connect just fine, but then the wireless signal strength (inthe DJI app) drops until it disconnects (temporarily). It will reconnect right away, but the cycle continues. My phone maintains a solid and consistent connection to the Docooler, it's the P2V itself that does not seem to like staying connected. Using the stock DJI repeater I have no problems maintaining a connection. I followed the RemE instructions (copied below for others convenience):
"
Overview, what we will do is to first gather the data from your existing Range Extender/Camera network. It will be needed to fill in the boxes in the Router config screens. Armed with that knowledge, we configure the router to mimic your stock extender.
1 - Normally you start with a working Vision WiFi Range Extender setup, power up the extender, the Vision, then your Phone/Pad and go to Settings>WiFi, and connect to the Extender Network.
2 - While still in the phone/pad WiFi settings, touch the (i) info icon to the right of the currently connected Range Extender network. In this information page, jot down the "IP Address", "Router", and the "Search Domains" information.
3 - Now Open the DJI Phone App and go to Settings>General>Binding. In here you will see the "Current Binding" data. Copy down the SSID number, this is the hidden ID of the Vision Camera, note that it's "FC200_the last 6 digits of its MAC address", just good to know. Note - The other instructions I saw had you reset the Extender and then Re-Bind the Camera using the QR Code from the shipping box and the manual (pg16), this should not be necessary if you have a normally working system already as you should be able to just read the current data. I have tried it both ways and it does work to get the Camera's hidden SSID number to show up if that information is blank in this screen for some reason.
Now we will configure the router. But first, I thought I'd mention something about using a second, spare, Range Extender. I was going to get a 2nd extender to modify it with big antennas etc. as others have done. I took the 2nd extender and found that I could bind it to the same Vision using the QR code from the Vision Shipping box (I keep a copy of this QR code in my carry case). The 2nd Extender shows up as a 2nd network on the iPad. So you can carry a spare extender and use one OR the other with no changes needed on the Vision, just connect to the which ever extender you need, each has a unique network name, easy!
Now, back to the Router.
4 - Unpack it and connect its antennas, don't operate it without antennas!
5 - Power it up with its AC adapter, connect a LAN cable to your laptop's LAN port to port 1 of the Router (any port really, except the WAN port).
6 - Open your laptop's browser and type in this URL 192.168.1.254
This should open the router's built-in WLAN Access Point web interface.
7 - We will be only configuring a few items, navigate using the Site Contents bar on the left side of the screen beginning with "Operation Mode". We will NOT use the setup wizard.
8 - Click on "Operation Mode" on the left bar, now select the "Bridge" radio button. Then click on "Apply Change" button at the bottom. It may restart, but don't worry it will come back.
9 - Now click on "Wireless" on the left bar and below that, select "Basic Settings". In here you select "Client" for the mode. for SSID you type in the SSID information from your Vision camera. Check the box near the bottom "Enable Universal Repeater Mode". Lastly in the "SSID of Extended Interface" box type in the name you want this Router Network to show on your Phone/iPad. I chose "Phantom_Ranger" as mine. Now click on apply changes, it may restart, no worries.
10- Now click on "TCP/IP Settings" on the left bar and select "LAN Interface".
IP Address, Enter the info from your phone's "Router" field.
DHCP Client Range, enter the IP address from your Range Extender's WiFi setting as the start range, and a higher address as the end range (doesn't really matter).
Domain Name, enter "lan", then apply changes.
"
COtto1984 said:
My understanding is that this is a diversity set up so the repeater will switch to the strongest signal that it receives regardless of which position the signal comes from I.e. Position 1,2 or 3. I plan to use the centre connection as the netgear patch and place this below and in front of the omnis. Also lean the omnis back by around 10 degrees for the first omni and around 25 degrees for the second for best coverage.
Getting awfully close to the floor of the DEN Class B airspace (8000 MSL in that neighborhood) and I regularly fly my full-size airplane through that area close to that altitude coming into Jeffco (trying to stay out of said airspace). You might want to save the high altitude stuff for the boondocks. Neither of us would like it much if I hit your P2V doing 200 knots.davidbarwin said:
(Nearly hit a hang glider at 5000' north of Burbank once, probably the most scared I've been in an airplane...)
Re: Docooler ARGTek
Could be your phone is getting swamped with signal and overloading the signal register? Try standing further away from the decooler or put a wall between you and it, as it's pushing out 1500mW. See if makes a difference
themosttoys said:
Could be your phone is getting swamped with signal and overloading the signal register? Try standing further away from the decooler or put a wall between you and it, as it's pushing out 1500mW. See if makes a difference
Re: Docooler ARGTek
Yes -- I find if I get too close I get a bit of a problem - it shows zero bars but still works fine. Never lost connection to the PV though.
Highcloud said:
Yes -- I find if I get too close I get a bit of a problem - it shows zero bars but still works fine. Never lost connection to the PV though.
Re: Docooler ARGTek
gqauk - Thank you for confirming that yours is stable, I'll do more testing.
Highcloud - Thank you for the suggestion, I put the Docooler in a closet on the other side of my house. Phone only getting one bar but does stay connected, the Vision drops connection about every 15 to 30 seconds. I also tried dropping the power output of the Docooler to 15% (configurable in settings), same results. I'll try more testing.
BTW, just so everyone knows, the Docooler is ~1.5w total across b/g/n. b is ~1w, g is ~300mw, n is ~300mw. I've thought about putting it in b only mode, ~1w is plenty, just got to get it to work.
When I do get it working, I'll test as many antenna's as I can (I have about a dozen different 2.4ghz antennas) I also have an 800mw booster for the P2V side (waiting on more parts before I attempt an install).
Thanks
gpauk said:
gqauk - Thank you for confirming that yours is stable, I'll do more testing.
Highcloud - Thank you for the suggestion, I put the Docooler in a closet on the other side of my house. Phone only getting one bar but does stay connected, the Vision drops connection about every 15 to 30 seconds. I also tried dropping the power output of the Docooler to 15% (configurable in settings), same results. I'll try more testing.
BTW, just so everyone knows, the Docooler is ~1.5w total across b/g/n. b is ~1w, g is ~300mw, n is ~300mw. I've thought about putting it in b only mode, ~1w is plenty, just got to get it to work.
When I do get it working, I'll test as many antenna's as I can (I have about a dozen different 2.4ghz antennas) I also have an 800mw booster for the P2V side (waiting on more parts before I attempt an install).Thanks
Update on my Docooler situation. After hours of trying, I decided to reset and start all over. Apparently, second time is the charm, it now works. One thing I've noticed is that if my P2V is within 30 feet (outdoors) of the Docooler, the GPS does not always lock :-( This does not bode well for the idea of putting a 2.4Ghz amplifier on the P2V.
I did a few quick tests with some antennas (will do more comprehensive testing when I have more time). This was done in a VERY RF noisy neighborhood (the Docooler picked up more than two dozen wifi networks).
-The 5dbi omni's that come with the Docooler give much less range (maybe 1/3rd) than the stock repeater (although they will give a circle of coverage).
-The 9.5dbi omnis do a fairly decent job, about 1/2 to 2/3rds the stock repeater (again will give a circle of coverage).
-The 14dbi TP-Link is excellent but it is a beast, I stopped at 3280 feet (when the app went to N/A) and still had video, but I was flying sideways (I had temporary lost video around 2000 feet and turned sideways just to see how far I could go.)
-The 9dbi TP-Link for some reason only gave a little more than the stock repeater. It is possible that this was an anomaly or something that I did wrong, I'll try again another time.
-The last test was with this antenna (http://www.l-com.com/wireless-antenna-2 ... -connector) I was VERY happy with the performance of this antenna. It performed equally as good as the 14dbi TP-Link (in this informal test, 3280 feet and video was still strong) and is a much more manageable size.
I also picked up the Circular Wireless SPW24 and HELIAXIAL24 (very nice looking and well made antenna). It will be a while before I test these, but I am looking forward to it (I would love to not need to worry about what direction the P2V is pointing.)
I did a few quick tests with some antennas (will do more comprehensive testing when I have more time). This was done in a VERY RF noisy neighborhood (the Docooler picked up more than two dozen wifi networks).
-The 5dbi omni's that come with the Docooler give much less range (maybe 1/3rd) than the stock repeater (although they will give a circle of coverage).
-The 9.5dbi omnis do a fairly decent job, about 1/2 to 2/3rds the stock repeater (again will give a circle of coverage).
-The 14dbi TP-Link is excellent but it is a beast, I stopped at 3280 feet (when the app went to N/A) and still had video, but I was flying sideways (I had temporary lost video around 2000 feet and turned sideways just to see how far I could go.)
-The 9dbi TP-Link for some reason only gave a little more than the stock repeater. It is possible that this was an anomaly or something that I did wrong, I'll try again another time.
-The last test was with this antenna (http://www.l-com.com/wireless-antenna-2 ... -connector) I was VERY happy with the performance of this antenna. It performed equally as good as the 14dbi TP-Link (in this informal test, 3280 feet and video was still strong) and is a much more manageable size.
I also picked up the Circular Wireless SPW24 and HELIAXIAL24 (very nice looking and well made antenna). It will be a while before I test these, but I am looking forward to it (I would love to not need to worry about what direction the P2V is pointing.)
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gpauk said:
Have you come to any conclusion which one is better? I would be interested in knowing. The kit seems ok but for anyone wanting sort of a "plug and play" option the second one seems to be better as far as setting up and installing for the average person.
David
Did anyone open the repeater? It could be that it's so small, that it could go with the camera. And connect a second repeater on the groundstation to the vision repeater, just an idea.
Super-D said:
I would expect that aside from receiving a defective unit (in either product), the performance will be very similar "close enough for government work". 1W is more than enough power, after that, it's all about antennas. For me it's more aesthetics, if I could fit the kit inside the transmitter I would do the kit, otherwise I'd want to model and print a custom case for it. So I guess it does come down to ease of use, in this case plug and play is the way I'll go.
How would you implement that thing without having a bunch of wires everywhere? Or would this be a deal where you need to put the antenna and amplifier remotely and run a cable to them from the TX?themosttoys said:
COtto1984 said:
Remove the stock controller antenna and replace it with a U.FL to RP-SMA pigtail.
Velcro the amplifier (and a lipo battery to power it) to the underside of the controller (or mount it to the carry bar like the repeater).
Connect a cable from the RP-SMAend of the controller to the input of the amplifier (only external wire).
Connect the antenna to the output of the amplifier.
Done.
Could you please provide a link or model number for the controller amplifier? I can't seem to source the correct one.
Thanks
Thanks
Okies, I'm, new to this, and my P2V hasn't even arrived yet. I've read through all 63 pages of this post and am suffering from information overload :shock: Am I right in saying that people can expect to get a long range (1Km+) from the standard 5.8Ghz remote control transmitter with no modification? In FCC mode of course. And that a 2.4Ghz 9dbi omnidirectional antenna should increase the range of the FPV wifi?
storm_333 said:
under favourable geographical circumstances, yes, you're pretty much spot on with that summary
