Hands on experience Phantom 3 - 4K plus Inside the hood Pictures

[Buzz313th]

I believe Phillip Bloom shoots most of his drone footage between 25-30 Fps. I'm gonna guess the shutter speed for his drone work is anywhere from 1/50th to 1/100th of a second on the cinematic looking stuff.

Check out his work...

https://vimeo.com/philipbloom

 

[MSFlyer]

So fricken anxious. Lets go DJI!!!

 

[mohan]

Shot another video today - 20mph gusts of wind, extremely bright morning with clear skies. Camera has difficulty adjusting to the brightness on auto settings as can be seen on the short flight. This is for you guys to comment ... dropbox raw footage below. The exposure is clear to see

Dropbox raw Log footage 4K -> https://www.dropbox.com/s/75xdx8rz0tigisw/DJI_0119.MOV?dl=0

 

[Lofty Visions]

Shot another video today - 20mph gusts of wind, extremely bright morning with clear skies. Camera has difficulty adjusting to the brightness on auto settings as can be seen on the short flight. This is for you guys to comment ... dropbox raw footage to follow..

Dropbox raw Log footage 4K ->http://

View attachment 18038

Did the footage have that horrible stepped exposure you used to get with the P2V+ camera? Hope not as that's one of the main reasons I sold mine

 

[Buzz313th]

Mohan,
What settings are you using on the camera?
The drastic overexposure when the phantom yaws left with the sun to it's back might be because you are in spot mode on the exposure meter. It looks like you are getting better dynamic range in Log/Raw mode, but I'm still a bit miffed by the auto sharpening. Can you turn that off?

I would suggest, if possible, to set exposure manualy and leave it... But I'm not sure if you can do that on the Phantom3.

 

[cjones1130]

Shot another video today - 20mph gusts of wind, extremely bright morning with clear skies. Camera has difficulty adjusting to the brightness on auto settings as can be seen on the short flight. This is for you guys to comment ... dropbox raw footage below. The exposure is clear to see

Dropbox raw Log footage 4K -> https://www.dropbox.com/s/75xdx8rz0tigisw/DJI_0119.MOV?dl=0

View attachment 18038

What app/device are you using to pilot your Phantom?

 

[leekiya]

We will get to the bottom of it.. I just checked chat and I was talking to the PM regarding this subject on 4/5. Things might have changed but I really doubt it.

Blade, any more news on if the emails i have had regarding the FCC, CE settings being factory set according to there shipping destination is true or not. You mentioned this setting was auto set by GPS location but would double check with someone at DJI for us. Still very keen to know this. cheers many thanks.

 

[Luap]

Shot another video today - 20mph gusts of wind, extremely bright morning with clear skies. Camera has difficulty adjusting to the brightness on auto settings as can be seen on the short flight. This is for you guys to comment ... dropbox raw footage below. The exposure is clear to see

Dropbox raw Log footage 4K -> https://www.dropbox.com/s/75xdx8rz0tigisw/DJI_0119.MOV?dl=0

View attachment 18038

Thanks again for posting! Its great to see out of the Phantom footage posted by a non DJI rep.

I find the stability in flight extremely good.

But still quite a lot of noise in the footage.
Lots of staccato effect (like that word). Have you tried or can you try using a shutter speed of 50 or 60?
Lots of stretching especially in the middle part on the sides. Here's a cropped screenshot (hope you don't mind) of same car taken at 6 seconds near the edge and at 9 seconds from your footage.
That appears to be some hefty distortion.
Not sure whether there are different FOV settings you could try.

There is the well known banding effect at around 1.28. So some sort of sunshade will be required.
Some jello between 1:45 and 1:50. Watch the trees in the foreground- but still quite marginal.
Pitch movement is extremely brusque like at 1:08 and 1:21 - is there anyway of slowing the pitch in the Pilot App?
Yaw is too fast - have you tried the expo curves in the Pilot App to slow it down?

 

[StevenQX]

Thanks again for posting! Its great to see out of the Phantom footage posted by a non DJI rep.

I find the stability in flight extremely good.

But still quite a lot of noise in the footage.
Lots of staccato effect (like that word). Have you tried or can you try using a shutter speed of 50 or 60?
Lots of stretching especially in the middle part on the sides. Here's a cropped screenshot (hope you don't mind) of same car taken at 6 seconds near the edge and at 9 seconds from your footage.
That appears to be some hefty distortion.
Not sure whether there are different FOV settings you could try.

There is the well known banding effect at around 1.28. So some sort of sunshade will be required.
Some jello between 1:45 and 1:50. Watch the trees in the foreground- but still quite marginal.
Pitch movement is extremely brusque like at 1:08 and 1:21 - is there anyway of slowing the pitch in the Pilot App?
Yaw is too fast - have you tried the expo curves in the Pilot App to slow it down?

I've noticed the stretch too. Seems that the non fisheye lens is only a fisheye lens that make in realtime what software like Photoshop cc do in post processing.

 

[fin032]

Mohan, Do you have any video took at 1080p 60? I am still trying to decide between the P3P and P3A but it seems to be mostly 4k files avalible.

Thanks

 

[mohan]

What app/device are you using to pilot your Phantom?

I haven't got the right software - using Android DJI Pilot

 

[mohan]

Mohan, Do you have any video took at 1080p 60? I am still trying to decide between the P3P and P3A but it seems to be mostly 4k files avalible.

Thanks

Not yet but I can see if I can if it helps

 

[mohan]

Thanks again for posting! Its great to see out of the Phantom footage posted by a non DJI rep.

I find the stability in flight extremely good.

But still quite a lot of noise in the footage.
Lots of staccato effect (like that word). Have you tried or can you try using a shutter speed of 50 or 60?
Lots of stretching especially in the middle part on the sides. Here's a cropped screenshot (hope you don't mind) of same car taken at 6 seconds near the edge and at 9 seconds from your footage.
That appears to be some hefty distortion.
Not sure whether there are different FOV settings you could try.

There is the well known banding effect at around 1.28. So some sort of sunshade will be required.
Some jello between 1:45 and 1:50. Watch the trees in the foreground- but still quite marginal.
Pitch movement is extremely brusque like at 1:08 and 1:21 - is there anyway of slowing the pitch in the Pilot App?
Yaw is too fast - have you tried the expo curves in the Pilot App to slow it down?

It was very gusty so the wind was moving the phantom along.. I will try and slow down as much as I can

 

[N017RW]

Isn't the rule-of-thumb that the shutter speed should be near twice the frame rate?

Pardon my ignorance...

 

[cjones1130]

I haven't got the right software - using Android DJI Pilot

What type of android device?

I appreciate your responsiveness and dedication to this forum!

 

[Buzz313th]

Yes, a good rule of thumb is to double the frame rate for shutter speed. If you do that, then you won't see the strobing/staccato effect when there is fast movement in frame.

The Phantom 3 and all the Gopros are fixed Iris lenses, so you can't adjust aperture. So the camera changes both shutter speed and ISO to adjust for a proper exposure. The problem is, that the lowest ISO on the gopros and I believe the P3 camera is 400 ISO... That means, that in direct sunlight, the exposure at 400ISO is F2,8 with a shutter speed of 1/8000th of a second... With the shutter speed being so high, each frame is captured with no motion blur at all, regardless of how fast things are moving by in frame. So the faster that something moves in frame, the further it moves relative to the last frame.. This is what creates the strobing effect. To solve this there are numerous options...

1. Raise the framerate so that there are more frames captured over time

2. Move the phantom slower, so that objects in frame don't move as fast and as far from one frame to the next

3. Lower the shutter speed enough so that you introduce motion blur on the objects that are moving the fastest in frame.. And the only way of doing that on these cameras is to reduce the amount of light that hits the sensor, by using an ND filter.. By lowering the amount of light, you are forcing the camera to slow down the shutter speed to correct the exposure.. Unfortunately, in direct sunlight, you would need a 6 stop ND filter to bring the shutter down to 1/125th of a second which would be the perfect shutter speed for good motion blur at 60fps.. For 24 or 30fps it's optimal to get it down to around 1/48th or 1/60th of a second... That is if your looking for a Cine look.

4. Wait till the sun gets close to sunrise or sunset and or magic hour, where the light level is almost perfect for these cameras with no filters.

5. Shoot on an overcast day

6. With the P3, shoot inside.

By lowering the shutter speed and introducing some motion blur, you will also be eliminating jello and prop strobing because the exposure time is long enough to allow one full rotation of the props and to allow the sensors progressive scan to capture a fuller frame.

 

[2nd2non]

Unfortunately, in direct sunlight, you would need a 6 stop ND filter to bring the shutter down to 1/125th of a second which would be the perfect shutter speed for good motion blur at 60fps.. For 24 or 30fps it's optimal to get it down to around 1/48th or 1/60th of a second... That is if your looking for a Cine look.

In these conditions during mid-day, would a lower ND filter of 4 be good at 24 or 30fps?

 

[Buzz313th]

In these conditions during mid-day, would a lower ND filter of 4 be good at 24 or 30fps?

If all your trying to do is get rid of prop strobing and jello, then yes.. If your trying to get rid of staccato/frame strobing.. then maybe.. It's all relative to how fast things are moving in frame. If your shooting with the drone flying foreword on a wide lens, then the objects at the edges of frame will be moving the fastest and will be the most likely parts of frame that strobe.. If panning, tilting and or doing a move right or left, then the whole frame is moving almost relatively. To get rid of frame strobing it's a combination of shutter speed, camera movement speed and lens focal length.. I will guarantee that in any situation if you get the shutterspeed down to 1/125th of a second that you will never see any strobing at all at 24-30fps... In mid day direct sun (Noon) a 4 stop ND will get you down to 1/500th of a second at 400ISO.

 

[Buzz313th]

The most important thing to do if your going to start taking light away from the camera, is make sure on the P3 or the gopros that you manually limit your ISO to 400.. Or the camera might raise ISO before it brings the shutterspeed down and then your gonna have noise and strobing.

 

[2nd2non]

If all your trying to do is get rid of prop strobing and jello, then yes.. If your trying to get rid of staccato/frame strobing.. then maybe.. It's all relative to how fast things are moving in frame. If your shooting with the drone flying foreword on a wide lens, then the objects at the edges of frame will be moving the fastest and will be the most likely parts of frame that strobe.. If panning, tilting and or doing a move right or left, then the whole frame is moving almost relatively. To get rid of frame strobing it's a combination of shutter speed, camera movement speed and lens focal length.. I will guarantee that in any situation if you get the shutterspeed down to 1/125th of a second that you will never see any strobing at all at 24-30fps... In mid day direct sun (Noon) a 4 stop ND will get you down to 1/500th of a second at 400ISO.

Thanks for the advice. I got an adjustable ND filter and will test performance at different settings.