GPS PLUG CONNECTION FIX

I read a couple times it being said the crimp pins in the plug and the longer guided pins in the board connector are copper with no coating to either of the two. That of coarse explain the corrosion that is beginning to become visible on each of these parts.

I do not have access to a metal tester, and on my new V3 I see that the pins on the board do not have a shine to them that I would expect them to have if they had a gold coating. I'm not saying it doesn't have the gold, it just doesn't have the appearance of having it.
 
Gold/Gold on my P2nv delivered in May '14.
 
flyNfrank said:
I read a couple times it being said the crimp pins in the plug and the longer guided pins in the board connector are copper with no coating to either of the two. That of coarse explain the corrosion that is beginning to become visible on each of these parts.

I do not have access to a metal tester, and on my new V3 I see that the pins on the board do not have a shine to them that I would expect them to have if they had a gold coating. I'm not saying it doesn't have the gold, it just doesn't have the appearance of having it.


Quite possibly then its Palladium nickel as that is common. Tin can be used but is not good for multiple insertions, re-insertions or high vibration area's.

Gold is expensive.
 
.....
 
robInb said:
Quite possibly then its Palladium nickel as that is common. Tin can be used but is not good for multiple insertions, re-insertions or high vibration area's.

Gold is expensive.

Had my V3 apart today for the option A connector changeout of RichWest and I changed the motor wires to stranded/ silicone from the V3 single solid wire.

re: GPS socket change Option A is a much tighter fit without changing the mating connector on the motherboard. I could de soldier the original connector on the mother board from the battery compartment but wanted to optimize the GPS performance one step at a time - logically.

Over the last weeks i've never been able to get more than 6 sats pre mod. Sometimes not even that.

Step 1 completed - I changed the GPS antenna to the high gain 3.5db version and the GPS connector above, Detox the connectors/ pins, re bent original pins, moved to new socket and now have been able to see 8 sats which is only 1 off the GNSS program of 9 at same time. When using video sats no longer fluctuates.

Will monitor and if there is a growing disparity between the GNSS tool and the Vision App I'll move to Step 2 - which will be to change the pins to the new one ordered with the connectors. RadioShack has the crimp tools for $9.99.

BTW - Looks like the pins are bronze plated....
 
mad in nc said:
robInb said:
Quite possibly then its Palladium nickel as that is common. Tin can be used but is not good for multiple insertions, re-insertions or high vibration area's.

Gold is expensive.

Had my V3 apart today for the option A connector changeout of RichWest and I changed the motor wires to stranded/ silicone from the V3 single solid wire.

re: GPS socket change Option A is a much tighter fit without changing the mating connector on the motherboard. I could de soldier the original connector on the mother board from the battery compartment but wanted to optimize the GPS performance one step at a time - logically.

Over the last weeks i've never been able to get more than 6 sats pre mod. Sometimes not even that.

Step 1 completed - I changed the GPS antenna to the high gain 3.5db version and the GPS connector above, Detox the connectors/ pins, re bent original pins, moved to new socket and now have been able to see 8 sats which is only 1 off the GNSS program of 9 at same time. When using video sats no longer fluctuates.

Will monitor and if there is a growing disparity between the GNSS tool and the Vision App I'll move to Step 2 - which will be to change the pins to the new one ordered with the connectors. RadioShack has the crimp tools for $9.99.

BTW - Looks like the pins are bronze plated....

I would be mistaken that you generally were opposed to these type of mods? It's great thing when you put time like you did into something and were able to get results from it.
 
RichWest PM'd me asking me to show the wire differences. While not the original topic of this thread it is important to note and for more information go to the http://www.phantompilots.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=32368&start=600 thread

I scoured the garbage can and am posting the pic with the DJI coated motor wire with two leads on the left side of the black/ red pair and the upgraded 18 ga. wire on the right.

Also note on last wire right side is the stranded solder point to the ESC pad to compare to the DJI solid wire solder point of the first black wire.

Benefits of stranded wire include 1.) less resistance, 2.) flexible in high vibration usage and 3.) larger solder points for less resistive connection

Thanks again burlbark aka Jeremy
 

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I don't understand why DJI replaced the stranded wire with double solid wire. Are they seriously using a double solid wire in case one of the wires breaks from vibration? If one breaks, the other will certainly break in short time too.
 
Where exactly did you cut the solid wire from the motor to solder in the multi strand wire ?

I have put a little silicon glue on the 3 wires to bind them (not to circuit board) but to each other to stop them being vibrated and give a little extra stiffness.

The glue has a little flex in it, does not contain any nasty corrosive properties and clear.
 
MapMaker53 said:
I don't understand why DJI replaced the stranded wire with double solid wire. Are they seriously using a double solid wire in case one of the wires breaks from vibration? If one breaks, the other will certainly break in short time too.

There are two wires because there are three coils. The two wires are one end of two coils. They are solid because that is what the coils are wound with.
 
A friend's P2V+ v3 suddenly fell from the sky today during a slow forward flight.

As I was removing the shell from the crashed Phantom I don't remember feeling any resistance from the GPS cable which makes me wonder if it had come loose mid-flight. And if so, would that cause the drop from the sky? I see some saying that cable disconnect mid-air will merely put it into the equivalent of ATTI, others say it will be like Manual mode, others say it will autoland on the spot, while at least one person thinks it will go nuts and soon smack the earth.

Does manual mode mean it will not use any stabilizers/accelerometers/gyroscopes?

Anyone have more info or experience on GPS cable disconnect mid-air?
 
Brent10 said:
A friend's P2V+ v3 suddenly fell from the sky today during a slow forward flight.

As I was removing the shell from the crashed Phantom I don't remember feeling any resistance from the GPS cable which makes me wonder if it had come loose mid-flight. And if so, would that cause the drop from the sky? I see some saying that cable disconnect mid-air will merely put it into the equivalent of ATTI, others say it will be like Manual mode, others say it will autoland on the spot, while at least one person thinks it will go nuts and soon smack the earth.

Does manual mode mean it will not use any stabilizers/accelerometers/gyroscopes?

Anyone have more info or experience on GPS cable disconnect mid-air?

So, it was disconnected when you you took the top off?
 
Marlin009 said:
Brent10 said:
A friend's P2V+ v3 suddenly fell from the sky today during a slow forward flight.

As I was removing the shell from the crashed Phantom I don't remember feeling any resistance from the GPS cable which makes me wonder if it had come loose mid-flight. And if so, would that cause the drop from the sky? I see some saying that cable disconnect mid-air will merely put it into the equivalent of ATTI, others say it will be like Manual mode, others say it will autoland on the spot, while at least one person thinks it will go nuts and soon smack the earth.

Does manual mode mean it will not use any stabilizers/accelerometers/gyroscopes?

Anyone have more info or experience on GPS cable disconnect mid-air?

So, it was disconnected when you you took the top off?

I can't say for sure that it was disconnected. I just don't remember feeling the resistance of it pulling out of the connector as I lifted off the lid. I was expecting the cable to be longer and require removing by hand so I wasn't paying close attention as I lifted the lid.
 
Brent10 said:
A friend's P2V+ v3 suddenly fell from the sky today during a slow forward flight.

As I was removing the shell from the crashed Phantom I don't remember feeling any resistance from the GPS cable which makes me wonder if it had come loose mid-flight. And if so, would that cause the drop from the sky? I see some saying that cable disconnect mid-air will merely put it into the equivalent of ATTI, others say it will be like Manual mode, others say it will autoland on the spot, while at least one person thinks it will go nuts and soon smack the earth.

Does manual mode mean it will not use any stabilizers/accelerometers/gyroscopes?

Anyone have more info or experience on GPS cable disconnect mid-air?

Obviously this would be very difficult to test. You can't start a flight with it disconnected. And how would you intentionally get it to disconnect while in the air? I can't think of a way. So all you are going to get here is theory.

Brent10 said:
I can't say for sure that it was disconnected. I just don't remember feeling the resistance of it pulling out of the connector as I lifted off the lid. I was expecting the cable to be longer and require removing by hand so I wasn't paying close attention as I lifted the lid.

That connector is such a loose fit when stock that if you are not expecting it, it will likely pull right out when you separate the top.

I wish we knew for sure what happens when it disconnects mid-flight. I would also hope for ATTI mode, but maybe it just shuts down. We know for a fact that it won't start up when disconnected.
 
When my new V3 arrived last week I had the cover off right after taking a pic of the quad in full form. When lifting the cover off I notice right away there is no extra wire coming from the gps like in the past. I may of had 1 inch total slack, which is how it should be, and how it should have always been. They finally got it right. Now my gps plug did not just lift up and out. I had to reach in and use a little effort to get it out.

Brent10, we have pretty well came to the conclusion that the quads are being forced into Manual Mode and fall from the sky. The falling takes place because there is not enough power with the control lever in the normal middle position. The lever would pushed up higher for it to have enough power to at least hover. Had your friend switched S1 into GPS Mode before hitting the ground he could have saved it from crashing. If it was already in GPS Mode, the sequence of taking it out of and back into GPS Mode will reset it the gps and again should help save it from a crash.

What kind of damage did the quad receive?
 
Instead of us guessing.. why dont we test... I have done the simple test....advise others to do the same so we can compare if results same.

Take props off.. take lid/top shell off but leave gps cable connected.. but in such a way the turning motors wont touch shell.. so hang it over side.. if you get what I mean.. anyways.. startup as normal.. i.e gets your satts... start motors.. pull out cable and see what mode it goes into. No more guessing :)
 
justin00 said:
Instead of us guessing.. why dont we test... I have done the simple test....advise others to do the same so we can compare if results same.

Take props off.. take lid/top shell off but leave gps cable connected.. but in such a way the turning motors wont touch shell.. so hang it over side.. if you get what I mean.. anyways.. startup as normal.. i.e gets your satts... start motors.. pull out cable and see what mode it goes into. No more guessing :)


Justin00 that is a logical step, will prove the theory and take out any personal conclusion or speculation
 
flyNfrank said:
What kind of damage did the quad receive?

Bent a leg, popped out compass PCB, and bent gimbal at a steep angle. All motors spin up and everything seems functional except poor gimbal.
The missing prop that came off in flight was found today 60' away from crash site in melting snow. Prop is undamaged, threads look good, no crack or split, and it spins back onto motor just fine.
 

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