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Time Lapse

Discussion in 'Pro/Adv Discussion' started by rhoffart, Jan 8, 2016.

  1. rhoffart

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    I'm all charged up and heading out for some night shots and was also going to try some time lapse. Now just doing my pre-flight check and location the TL setting. They changed it to 10s as the lowest. I searched and googled it. I did find a hyper-lapse video that said a "third party app" was used for an Inspire 1. Question;

    Does anyone know of a third party app that lets you take an image in 2s or 3s intervals? For a P3P?
     
  2. Stealth Tours

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    Sorry, I haven't seen this post prior to "searching" this same topic. The DJI go app. pretty much is worthless for this feature. I have Autoflightlogic Autopilot which I set my camera setting with go app. then bring up Autopilot. I believe under settings, near the bottom of that page, you will find "continuous photos" which allows 2, 3, 4, 5, 10, 20, 30 second interval photos. I chose a test run, sitting the quad on a card table, strapping the legs down as the wind was about 20 mph and aiming at a Pepper tree moving quite a lot. Where I am messed up is: importing the sequence into Lightroom 6.4.1 and getting to the "export", activity bar top left starts I guess the "rendering" process to my computer, 10% into it a message pops up "has stopped, do I want Windows to analyze the problem?" Worthless techies that just keep saying "the next update". B.S. These people are near you in Austin, Texas where Autopilot is created....this is my favorite inspiration to keep trying to solve this process:
     
  3. happydays

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    Why not just take video and speed it up in post production?
     
  4. Stealth Tours

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    Referencing evening or night shots, the automatic settings will not capture enough light therefore not bringing out the colors as well. Your suggestion works during day time, but the effects of just speeding up video is not the same.
     
  5. Frankc

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    There is a bit of software out there, I know because I have it on my computer somewhere, that removes every so-many-frames. In other words you video it as normal. Run the program. It keeps 20 frames, removes the next 20 etc so you end up with a stop motion effect.

    Yes I must dig it out of the computer. :)
     
  6. lookin4pain

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    Please do, that sounds interesting
     
  7. xardoz

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    The difference I believe between the stills and just cutting frames out of the video is that if I am not mistaken the stills utilize the whole sensor of the camera 4:3 whereas video is a crop of the sensor.... correct me if I am wrong here....that being the case your stills have better resolution and they are raw format as well. Of course if you then post-production convert to 16:9 you then will be sacrificing some of that resolution so it would only benefit if you did the final in 4:3. I do a good bit of gopro time-lapses for motorcycle trips because I like that I have raw full resolution stills for each frame that I work with then run it through a program to convert to video but I keep the 4:3 aspect ratio....I had been using AutoPilot, nice program but been using Litchi(IOS) lately due to flying long range and liking the idea of interruptions of signal not interrupting the waypoint mission and it just continuing on. Does Litchi in the Android version have the ability to do continuous images like Autopilot?
     
    #7 xardoz, Jan 29, 2016
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2016
  8. lookin4pain

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    makes sense. Timelaps is something I've always had interest in, so any pointers are good!!!
    if it's not raining... again tonight, I'll be giving this a try with autopilot. what are the seconds you would recommend to start with for something like post #2 video?
     
  9. xardoz

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    I've never done them at night myself, although its certainly something I've been wanting to do. The more frames your have in a given time the smoother you can make it, but the limiting factor at night is the lengthened shutter speed + the time it takes to save each image. Someone who has done this already would likely be a better source, but if nothing else I would start with 5 sec (if your scene has enough light and work up from there. also depends on the amount of movement in the frame not much movement you can sacrifice more frames and have a larger delay, if you are panning and take them with too much delay it will be hard to get it to be smooth when you go to video. Just my thoughts.
     
  10. lookin4pain

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    actually that's a good point. I can see 5 second intervals, but usually for night shots, I try and get 2 second shots if I can. I'm guessing this will change as you mentioned with the lighting. I've only owned this drone since december and haven't had much time to test it out yet. All of my night shots are local to the town I live in and it's not that lit up.

    here's to hoping the rain holds off tonight...
     
  11. xardoz

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    Also I use a mac for most of my video/picture work and found a nice timelapse "App" very simple and actually produces some nice results its called "Persecond" Introducing Persecond: The Flixel Timelapse App They have this nice slider you can use to speed and slow down the timelapse in realtime as you preview so you can get the look you want. It use to just display when you did that how the length of the video changed (time) I asked them to add a feature and also display how the fps (frames per second) changes with the slider and they added it on the next release. This is good if you have multiple clips of different time lengths and you want them to all have the same "look" you just put the slider to the same fps for each, then combine them in a video editor...
     
  12. Frankc

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    It looks like you have a solution. :) I cannot find the software I talked about. Just before Christmas I had a nasty virus on my computer and lost everything. I thought id got most back but obviously not.

    Anyway I googled around and eventually found this video how to extract photos from a video. Then you put it into time lapse software, like these gents have suggested. Set it to the frame rate you like. Jobs a gud un :)
     
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  13. SanCap

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    There is a similar App for Mac called Snap Motion ($3.99)
     
  14. Stealth Tours

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    lookin4pain: The video I posted, best I can figure since they posted their shots were in RAW, you can't have jpeg then. Most postings showing this kind of brightness to a night shot, ISO is 100 or max 200, 1.5 to 2 second intervals....I thought they hinted at a 3 second interval with Autopilot. They do post that they assembled the stills into 24 fps.

    The test I am in the middle of was to use jpeg format which is 1/6th the data volume of RAW with the manual settings I have listed, but I've been hung out to dry by Lightroom failing during the export process at the 10% point...it stops.
     
  15. lookin4pain

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    Thanks Stealth Tours. here's hopin to a clear night