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This is gonna be fun! (Distance tests)
- Thread starter dirtybum
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Yep, I had some great reception on the P3A in some congested path w/ that 2.4 setup!
Originally got the "cannon" for the p2 2.4 controller, unboosted for p2 controller it goes forever!!!!
So, throw a 5.8 on for control, take it to my most congested path tomorrow(cause thats what the wind affords me tomorrow & I really wanna test the 4.0 multistar bat) and see what happens! Stay tuned.
Originally got the "cannon" for the p2 2.4 controller, unboosted for p2 controller it goes forever!!!!
So, throw a 5.8 on for control, take it to my most congested path tomorrow(cause thats what the wind affords me tomorrow & I really wanna test the 4.0 multistar bat) and see what happens! Stay tuned.
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Who knows Beau! I mean, we're taking this a/c out 8 miles when it's s'posed to go 1 at best! The 5.8 15 turn worked great on those runs! The video side struggles ( at least on that path) after 40000'.
So we'll keep tryin stuff[emoji41]
So we'll keep tryin stuff[emoji41]
Hello, Guys I just recieved my 2.4ghz 1W Sunhans 2.4ghz booster everything connected up only showing the Green Led light no blue activity light is my booster faulty.
Not all the amps are the same. The older silver amps have two lights: one green, one blue. The newer gold amps have only one light (I think). But I don't think it matters what color your amp is. Both silver and gold will work fine and provide the watts as advertised. It sounds like you have the silver amp.
Your amp must be connected correctly, your amp battery needs to be charged, your amp needs to be plugged into the battery, your controller has to be turned on, your aircraft should be turned on, and you have to wait until your controller has booted. After all that, the blue light should flicker intermittently. It might be hard to see in bright sunshine.
Your amp must be connected correctly, your amp battery needs to be charged, your amp needs to be plugged into the battery, your controller has to be turned on, your aircraft should be turned on, and you have to wait until your controller has booted. After all that, the blue light should flicker intermittently. It might be hard to see in bright sunshine.
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The blue only lites when its transmitting/receiving, so like Mark said, its not just gonna blink blue in your livingroom unless its a/c is on also. Take it for a flight and report back[emoji41]
Done all that still no joy.
yep, came back from flight kept saying no signal around 200ft still no blue light everything connected all batteries are fully charged I'm lost what next removed the booster got upto 13,000ft.
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Tried this set up in my most congested flight path, only got 18,000 feet before start getting real sketchy. Lots of warnings on the app saying "strong interference be cautious in flight"
I might just have to face it , that path is not going to work for the P3 standard. It was worth a try though. But I can do just as good with a smaller set up[emoji41]
Hey DB, what about a mostly clear flight path? Do you think the half sphere is definitely better than a pinwheel / cloverleaf deal? And how do you like that half sphere combined with the 10-turn helical as opposed to the ITELITE for FPV?
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If you mean half sphere birdside, then no, I've ran p2' like that and you loose everything when it turns around.
Right now I still think either boosted DBS panel that has 5.8 and 2.4 in it, or DBS panel 2.4's for wi-fi and 15 turn for control is the best thing with the standard.
In fact, probably the later of those too. Because I don't think I want to use anything but that 15 turn for control signal, it's just so strong[emoji41]
I think that 2.4 super Canon would work OK if you had Mushrooms on the Wi-Fi birdside, but I don't think the long helical matches the Wi-Fi pucks (stock wi-fi antennas,)at least it doesn't add anything
Dirtybum, Thanks will be sending this booster for a replacement been trying all morning.
Definitely a bad amp once I remove the amp I get 13,000ft just with the dbs mod no amps that means my controller is fine and dbs mod is fine.
No I meant pilot side.
Okay, do you prefer the half sphere to a cloverleaf? Is one better than the other? Or you're not sure?
BTW have you ordered this bad boy yet?
Phantom Terminator Linear kit - Midwest Horizon FPV Antennas
I bet this would kick FPV *** for the P3S. It might just be what we've all been waiting for.
Okay, do you prefer the half sphere to a cloverleaf? Is one better than the other? Or you're not sure?
BTW have you ordered this bad boy yet?
Phantom Terminator Linear kit - Midwest Horizon FPV Antennas
I bet this would kick FPV *** for the P3S. It might just be what we've all been waiting for.
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Alright TMonkey,now we're getting somewhere, let us know how it works out for you.
And by the way, you handled it like a pro, we just got to start changing things around till you figure out what the missing link is[emoji41]
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Back in the early P2V days, you know we'd mod the Wi-Fi module with one half spear and one Cloverleaf. That was great for those who just fly around, but it didn't take long before I was just going straight out so I switched to two halfspheres and it made a world of difference.
My "terminator"should be here any day, I mentioned it in post# 312 or so,
I should be one of the first Americans to receive one because I ordered one the second I heard about it ,yes, it's going to be badass and if it's not then at least we tried it!
This is what it looks like firsthand
I want one
Okay I'm gonna try out the half sphere combined with my 8-turn helical (yeah mine's only 8 turn) with the 16 turn 5.8. I will amp both helicals. After that I'll try amping the half sphere (but not the helical) just for fun. Then I'll do a few more runs with the ITELITE amped and see what's up. Meanwhile I'm sure by then you'll be running with the Terminator multiple times and reporting routine double digit miles with five bars FPV.
These are good days were livin' bros
Okay I'm gonna try out the half sphere combined with my 8-turn helical (yeah mine's only 8 turn) with the 16 turn 5.8. I will amp both helicals. After that I'll try amping the half sphere (but not the helical) just for fun. Then I'll do a few more runs with the ITELITE amped and see what's up. Meanwhile I'm sure by then you'll be running with the Terminator multiple times and reporting routine double digit miles with five bars FPV.
These are good days were livin' bros
I don't wanna throw out negative vibes, but I wonder if the sensitivity on that 1 watt amp is less (ie more sensitive) than the 2 or 2.5 watts. And I wonder if the amp didn't get damaged if you happened to have turned on the amp first and then the controller? Because there is an initial sharp spike there when you first turn on the controller.
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I always turn my amps on first, you think that's burning them up sometimes? I don't like to turn my controller on without the amps because I don't want damage the controller. Do you think maybe turn the controller on and then very quickly turn the amps on to let that spike get introduced painlessly Mark?
