One, I'm not that damned smart. I wouldn't know how to do what you're suggesting. Two, I know a way to do it my way without interfering with the Phantom's wiring. I simply slip some connecting clips over the battery connecting posts for the power to the lights and switching remote. They will have power, when you turn on the battery. I'd be very happy to try it your way, if I knew how.
Remote activated switch?
- Thread starter CapArt
- Start date
Kel,
The OP was asking about remotely activating a switch. I don't think he ever said why or for what.
Yours doesn't satisfy that request. Yours simply gets powered on when you power on the drone and doesn't turn on/off remotely. Again, since I don't know what the OP wanted to do, I can't really address much past my first suggestion.
Basically a phototransistor senses light. By mounting it under the lens of the front red lights of the phantom it can be triggered by those red lights. Those red lights can be switched on/off using GO (maybe other apps, not sure). That phototransistor can then be used to either switch the load (if its small enough) or to feed a relay that could be used to ultimately trigger whatever the OP wanted to be switchable.
Whether thats a suitable solution to the OP or not, I don't really know. I simply offered it as a possible alternative to buying expensive RF remotes or cracking open the P3's shell thus voiding your warranty.
The OP was asking about remotely activating a switch. I don't think he ever said why or for what.
Yours doesn't satisfy that request. Yours simply gets powered on when you power on the drone and doesn't turn on/off remotely. Again, since I don't know what the OP wanted to do, I can't really address much past my first suggestion.
Basically a phototransistor senses light. By mounting it under the lens of the front red lights of the phantom it can be triggered by those red lights. Those red lights can be switched on/off using GO (maybe other apps, not sure). That phototransistor can then be used to either switch the load (if its small enough) or to feed a relay that could be used to ultimately trigger whatever the OP wanted to be switchable.
Whether thats a suitable solution to the OP or not, I don't really know. I simply offered it as a possible alternative to buying expensive RF remotes or cracking open the P3's shell thus voiding your warranty.
First, I don't have the skill sets to build such a system that you are suggesting. I wish I did. Otherwise, I have a way of connecting this set up to power, without modifying the Phantom's wiring. I have a 'slip on' attachment that fits over the drone's battery connecting posts. All wiring for the auxiliary lighting will be 'stand alone' or a separate 'module' that can be quickly detached. Do you see any other possible drawbacks to what I am planning?
Thanks for the definition of a phototransistor. There's also the LSD (light sensing diode). I'm not totally unfamiliar with those concepts. However, I do lack the training or experience to just order the pieces from Radio Shack and build that device. I do appreciate your insight. BTW, the remote I was looking at only cost $4.00, works off of 12V and has a range of 300m.
There are many solutions. I was only adding to the pool of possible answers. Yours is another. I would look closely at the voltage on those pins. I thought the battery of the P3 is >14v. You might want to put a LM7812 (12v linear regulator) feeding your RF receiver unless you are sure it can take the full voltage of the P3's battery.
The other disadvantage I see is the ebay listing you linked to is only good for 300-500m. If thats ok with you, then fine.
LSD (not lysergic acid diethylamide, but Light Sensitive Diode) are not nearly as sensitive as a phototransistor. They might work. You would have to look at the light output from the red leds and make sure it exceeded the trigger luminescence threshold of the LSD. I am positive a phototransistor will work and they are virtually the same price as an LSD. There are lots of circuits out for the phototransistor so its a logical choice. I am also positive a CdS (cadmium sulfide photoresistor) will also work and are even cheaper (but bulkier). Circuits also all over the internet.
Basically all you need is something optical that can feed the base of an NPN 2N2222 transistor which can trigger a relay (with diode across the coil for quenching spikes) and a micro relay. Maybe a couple bias resistors. The whole thing could be the size of a postage stamp.
Wow! You must be some kind of electronics professional. You should post some kind of schematic and parts list for us laymen. If I knew what to purchase and had a schematic. I'm sure I could build it. But, frankly, you are way over my head. I do know (now) that the P3P batteries are 15.2V. I'm not convinced that would harm the auxiliary receiver. The receiver is rated at 12V. But, most simple devices like that actually have a range that they can operate in, like 10-15V. Maybe, as you say, I can get a small regulator circuit an put in line before the receiver. Wouldn't a step down transformer be an appropriate choice?
http://www.amazon.com/SMAKN®-Conver...id=1457879507&sr=8-52&keywords=15v+down+to+12
And, as far as the 200-500 meters is concerned, I would probably be turning the lights on / off within that range, not while the drone was 1200 meters away. After all, 500 meters is about 1600 feet. I really don't plan on flying that far way.
http://www.amazon.com/SMAKN®-Conver...id=1457879507&sr=8-52&keywords=15v+down+to+12
And, as far as the 200-500 meters is concerned, I would probably be turning the lights on / off within that range, not while the drone was 1200 meters away. After all, 500 meters is about 1600 feet. I really don't plan on flying that far way.
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Yes, a buck converter will work very well. Its not as efficient at low currents though.
Advantages:
1. Wide input voltage range
2. Very stable output
3. Generates less heat with high current than linear regulators.
4. Input voltage can be lower than output voltage.
Disadvantages:
1. Large
2. Heavy
3. More expensive than linear regulators
4. Less efficient at low currents
5. Introduces ripple
Advantages
1. Very small
2. Very light
3. Very simple to wire
4. Very efficient at low currents
5. Introduces NO ripple
6. Very efficient when output voltage is near input voltage (as is the case on the phantom to 12v)
Disadvantages
1 Generates lots of heat at high currents
2. Input voltage must exceed output voltage
So, it depends on what you wish to sacrifice as to whether a buck or a linear regulator will be best.
If you are not worried about weight or complexity of the device, go with the buck. If you want the simplest and lightest option and can deal with the dissipated heat, then the linear regulator is your choice.
Since I don't know the current you intend to draw, I really can't say much more. If its very low current, linear again wins. If its high current (amps not milliamps) then the buck will be better if you can afford the weight.
BTW, that one from amazon is way too big and bulky. Maybe this one, or one like it is a better buck option:
Car Voltage Regulator 12v 24 DC Buck Step Down Converter 4-38V to 1.25-36V DC 5A
Its small and light and has an adjustable output so you could use it for anything.
Advantages:
1. Wide input voltage range
2. Very stable output
3. Generates less heat with high current than linear regulators.
4. Input voltage can be lower than output voltage.
Disadvantages:
1. Large
2. Heavy
3. More expensive than linear regulators
4. Less efficient at low currents
5. Introduces ripple
Advantages
1. Very small
2. Very light
3. Very simple to wire
4. Very efficient at low currents
5. Introduces NO ripple
6. Very efficient when output voltage is near input voltage (as is the case on the phantom to 12v)
Disadvantages
1 Generates lots of heat at high currents
2. Input voltage must exceed output voltage
So, it depends on what you wish to sacrifice as to whether a buck or a linear regulator will be best.
If you are not worried about weight or complexity of the device, go with the buck. If you want the simplest and lightest option and can deal with the dissipated heat, then the linear regulator is your choice.
Since I don't know the current you intend to draw, I really can't say much more. If its very low current, linear again wins. If its high current (amps not milliamps) then the buck will be better if you can afford the weight.
BTW, that one from amazon is way too big and bulky. Maybe this one, or one like it is a better buck option:
Car Voltage Regulator 12v 24 DC Buck Step Down Converter 4-38V to 1.25-36V DC 5A
Its small and light and has an adjustable output so you could use it for anything.
I didn't know that such a device existed. Does it automatically adjust the voltage based on draw?
Great idea. If only someone came up with the exact same idea 8montha ago... O wait, I did (post 15)
LOL, Chris. Okay, so, I figure, in order to run the auxiliary lights off the Phantom's battery pack, I'll need two of these things. One to reduce the voltage supplied to the LED strip down to 12V, and one to reduce the voltage to the receiver. The LED strip has a controller that will make them change colors, lighting sequence, pattern, etc., every time you 'pulse' the power to the input. But, I need that receiver to provide the 'pulse'. For some planes, cars, etc. that are using a controller that has auxiliary channels, that's easy. For DJI (they're very serious. The Phantom is NOT a toy.) there are no auxiliary channels or connections. It's all business.
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Check the input spec to the controller. Most will have some sort of voltage reg build in. They may quote 12v but in reality will work from 10-20v (for example).
The less components you have the easier it is to build and the less there is to go wrong.
The less components you have the easier it is to build and the less there is to go wrong.
Yeah, that's what I said earlier. A bag of 10 of those things was as cheap as buying one. I'll have some spares, just in case. Thanks for the heads up. I'll keep you posted.
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