Welcome to PhantomPilots.com

Sign up for a weekly email of the latest drone news & information

Phantom tool kit

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by GearLoose, Jun 9, 2013.

  1. GearLoose

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2013
    Messages:
    475
    Likes Received:
    1
    As I described in another thread, after putting my Phantom into a river I am literally getting a "crash course" in repair and maintenance. I've also discovered that I really don't have the best tools to disassemble the shell or the motors. In particular, I really struggled to remove the "C-clip" from the motor -- finally pried it off with a steel probe but it wasn't pretty. Then, when I tried to replace it, I snapped it in half.

    I have small diameter Allen wrenches but I suspect they are low quality.

    What size tools (and brands) would you recommend for this kind of work?

    If I replace the motor that appears damaged, I'll have to do some soldering. Is there a particular size iron that is most appropriate for the Phantom?
     
  2. TickTock

    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2013
    Messages:
    171
    Likes Received:
    1
  3. tanasit

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2013
    Messages:
    554
    Likes Received:
    2
    In order to remove the 3 wires from the esc cleanly, you will need a soldering iron that can go up to 450C degrees. When desolder the spots, do NOT pull the wires but let the spot melt & the wires come off by themselves, otherwise the plates on the board may break off.
     
  4. simensays

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2013
    Messages:
    34
    Likes Received:
    0
    Just cut the wires 1" above the ESC, and solder the new motors to those wires. It is easier to do, and you won't break the ESC as easily.

    I upgraded all the motors yesterday, to the T-motors 2214. I cut all the wires like mentioned on the stock motors, and soldered the new motor wires to them. I also had to change one ESC, as I actually managed to what Tanasit mentioned, broke off a connection plate on the ESC when desoldering the first wire. Don't be in a hurry like I was,, if you solder directly to ESC :) Luckily I got a new one delivered over night. I had no trouble soldering the wires to it, or the main board.

    Like I said in the PM, get an adjustable soldering iron for temperature. I set mine to 660 Farenheit / or 350 Celsius when I swapped my motors.

    If you are new to soldering, it is smart to take a look at some soldering ABC videos on YouTube before doing the job. It's easy, but it is smart to know how to tin the wires, pre tin the soldering iron tip for good contact, get a good hot solder by heating the joint correctly etc.

    Others might benefit from knowing what you asked me in your PM regarding how I remove my C-clips too, so I'll post the info here also. I use a small Flat Nose Plier.

    [​IMG]

    Just pull the C-clips out like seen in this video:
    [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJixomwlVUs[/youtube]
     
  5. tanasit

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2013
    Messages:
    554
    Likes Received:
    2
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R8 ... UTF8&psc=1

    The one above works great & you an find it on eBay too.
     
  6. Roadkilt

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2013
    Messages:
    454
    Likes Received:
    4
    Great video showing how to dismantle the motor for lube and rebuild with that little access plug. But if that c clip is in the bottom of the motor protecting the bearings doesn't it get in the way of trying to lube them again without complete disassembly and removal?
     
  7. simensays

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2013
    Messages:
    34
    Likes Received:
    0
    Nope. The C-clip is eleveted somewhat (there's a small spacer under it, and the groove that the C-clip fit onto, is about 1-2mm above the bearing also), and the oil would penetrate anyhow. It helps rotating the motor a little when oiling. The bearings are sealed, but that doesn't mean the oil won't get in there, but it does help keep dirt & dust out.