Phantom 4 Pro - The Video footage is shaking - Problem

It may have been working hard to stabilize the craft and gimbal resulting in jello. I recall there being a max shutter speed cutoff whereby the mechanical shutter reverts to electronic shutter, which I believe is more susceptible to jello.

What I am getting at is that maybe with a slower shutter speed via the use of ND or narrower aperture, if possible, perhaps you could get the shutter speed low enough where the effect would not be present under the same conditions.

As for wimosaur's comment, it tends to be true that for the nicest looking footage a shutter speed 2x the frame rate tends to result in a pleasing outcome, but this is not strictly related to jello or electronic shutter effects, but more of an unnatural seeming effect whereby there is not enough typical blur from frame to frame for movement to appear natural. It tends to look overly digital, or like ultra-crisp movement in a bad way. I don't think that is the case here, though getting the shutter speed low enough where the mechanical shutter is being used might likely help, so it is potentially correct advice but not necessarily for the correct reason.
Lower shutter speed will "hide" somehow the problem but it does not solve it whatever the reason.
 
Guys I know exactly why, but dji would not admit it, it is the gimbal lock to tight stressing the internal bubble, the 4 tiny internal bubbles, after replacing it, you will get most of the gimbal problem fix but the main things is the gimbal lock a bit too tight that mess up the bubble a bit, I made a post on dji forum but can't be bother do a entire video to explain.

Sent from my SM-G9350 using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
No expert, but from my aviation career I would say that is wind buffeting. the camera itself is not aerodynamic and with a strong wind right into the lens the air would have to escape, causing a buffeting effect.
 
This is my post on dji forum , P4P Gimbal vibration and noise + Fix

The video after replacing the bubbles,

So you can see from the video the vibration is disappear. After that I used heat gun to reformed the gimbal lock a bit to make it less tight, the Gray block form is supposed to prevent the tiny bubbles to stress but since the gimbal lock is too tight it cause the front two bubbles to stress even more. The vibration is caused by the different elastic strength of the bubbles, as two in front got stress. This caused the high frequency vibration. The tiny bubbles on p4 are the same as p4, you can find them on eBay, it call p4 vibration absorber set.

85cbd890c05964f92a99112824404461.jpg


ALSO to test if the bubble are really messed up, first tilts the drone like the video I post on dji forum and see if there is the high frequency vibration, that is to simulate flying in wind condition, if yes, try this
if you use any object to stop the gimbal falling that way, the high frequency vibration will stop.


Good luck fixing that, I already fix two p4p for my friends.
this is a reference to fix replace the bubble in p4p as the video is for p4 but the process is pretty much the same,
 
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No expert, but from my aviation career I would say that is wind buffeting. the camera itself is not aerodynamic and with a strong wind right into the lens the air would have to escape, causing a buffeting effect.
I agree with Pepino. From watching the cloud shadows, the wind was intense and blowing right at you. The gimbal/system can compensate for movement/fluttering, but it has it's limitations. You may have found those limitations.
 
I agree with Pepino. From watching the cloud shadows, the wind was intense and blowing right at you. The gimbal/system can compensate for movement/fluttering, but it has it's limitations. You may have found those limitations.
Do you have p4p? can you try titling your p4p to the left like this to see if you have high frequency vibration?
like this video below
may be have a light touch as well when it is titling. Some people have that vibration even at around 20 degrees to the left. May be have a look at this as well.
 
Mine does it, when the P4 is tilted past the gimbal travel limit, in either direction. But it's more of a buzz or hum to me, not really hi-freq. You can feel it, too, if you place a finger on the camera. It could show in the camera, but I can't imagine the gimbal actually tilting like that unless you were flying in way too much wind.
 
Mine does it, when the P4 is tilted past the gimbal travel limit, in either direction. But it's more of a buzz or hum to me, not really hi-freq. You can feel it, too, if you place a finger on the camera. It could show in the camera, but I can't imagine the gimbal actually tilting like that unless you were flying in way too much wind.

If you do this
That vibration will be disappear. Every P4p have different severity about this vibration. Some are very intensive. After i replaced the 4 tiny bubbles (vibration absorber bubble) The vibration will disappear, because it give more strength to prevent the entire gimbal falling to the limit. New bubble will actually hold it even when it is titled to 45 degree. I suspect it is the gimbal lock pushing the gimbal in too hard when locked, this action actually stressing the bubbles so hard which weaken the bubble and allow its to fall to the side more. Try to look at how much the gimbal lock actually pushed the gimbal in, then take it out and use your finger to see how much force you actually need to push the gimbal in to the same level.

Try it and tell me your result.=]

By the way did you try it with p4, as the gimbal is lighter the vibration is less. So most people dont found this as a problem. I personally didn't, i used to own P4.
However p4p is more sensitive to this because the same p4 bubbles used and but the camera is more heavy.
 
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It may have been working hard to stabilize the craft and gimbal resulting in jello. I recall there being a max shutter speed cutoff whereby the mechanical shutter reverts to electronic shutter, which I believe is more susceptible to jello.

What I am getting at is that maybe with a slower shutter speed via the use of ND or narrower aperture, if possible, perhaps you could get the shutter speed low enough where the effect would not be present under the same conditions.

As for wimosaur's comment, it tends to be true that for the nicest looking footage a shutter speed 2x the frame rate tends to result in a pleasing outcome, but this is not strictly related to jello or electronic shutter effects, but more of an unnatural seeming effect whereby there is not enough typical blur from frame to frame for movement to appear natural. It tends to look overly digital, or like ultra-crisp movement in a bad way. I don't think that is the case here, though getting the shutter speed low enough where the mechanical shutter is being used might likely help, so it is potentially correct advice but not necessarily for the correct reason.

Regarding shutter: Since he was recording video, it would not have been mechanical for sure. Video is always electronic even on the P4P. So, for video, the P4P can also suffer from jello effect. No change in shutter speed would have been able to overcome the severity of the jello/vibration on his video. Looking at the cloud shadow movement and speed, the bird had to fight a fair amount of wind. That in itself may not be so bad, but it sure will test the balance of the props or any other mechanical issues such as loose hubs or motors etc.
 
Do you have p4p? can you try titling your p4p to the left like this to see if you have high frequency vibration?
like this video below
may be have a light touch as well when it is titling. Some people have that vibration even at around 20 degrees to the left. May be have a look at this as well.
Yes, I can confirm that this vibration happens when I tilt the drone to the right but it happened also when tilted only few degrees, I do not know why. But, may be you are right, this is the reason of vibrations/jello.
 
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If you do this
That vibration will be disappear. Every P4p have different severity about this vibration. Some are very intensive. After i replaced the 4 tiny bubbles (vibration absorber bubble) The vibration will disappear, because it give more strength to prevent the entire gimbal falling to the limit. New bubble will actually hold it even when it is titled to 45 degree. I suspect it is the gimbal lock pushing the gimbal in too hard when locked, this action actually stressing the bubbles so hard which weaken the bubble and allow its to fall to the side more. Try to look at how much the gimbal lock actually pushed the gimbal in, then take it out and use your finger to see how much force you actually need to push the gimbal in to the same level.

Try it and tell me your result.=]

By the way did you try it with p4, as the gimbal is lighter the vibration is less. So most people dont found this as a problem. I personally didn't, i used to own P4.
However p4p is more sensitive to this because the same p4 bubbles used and but the camera is more heavy.
It seems that you are right it looks sensible. In that case, DJI must redesign something, otherwise sooner or later everybody will have this vibrations issue.
 
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It seems that you are right in looks sensible. In that case, DJI must redesign something, otherwise sooner or later everybody will have this vibrations issue.
But you know what i actually contacted dji support and they send me a video showing the same vibration occurs to any p4p, so i have gave up for a while but i really found this annoying so i taken it apart and keep testing and found that solution and reason. My p4p is not vibrating any more and i can get clear 4 seconds long exposure image now, i am happy with my p4p. You can try replace the bubble, they don't cost that much, rather then wasting time to send it back and i am pretty sure you won't get better results when it come back. Because they will just tell you don't fly when there is wind...- -
 
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But you know what i actually contacted dji support and they send me a video showing the same vibration occurs to any p4p, so i have gave up for a while but i really found this annoying so i taken it apart and keep testing and found that solution and reason. My p4p is not vibrating any more and i can get clear 4 seconds long exposure image now, i am happy with my p4p. You can try replace the bubble, they don't cost that much, rather then wasting time to send it back and i am pretty sure you won't get better results when it come back. Because they will just tell you don't fly when there is wind...- -
Even if you replace these bubbles, later they will not get weak again due to the forces acting on them from the gimbal lock?
 
85cbd890c05964f92a99112824404461.jpg


You missed that, I use heat gun to allow the gimbal lock to deform to a point so it is just touching the gimbal,It won't break if you do it careful it is like bending acrylic. I am waiting for 3rd party gimbal lock tho.
 
Try starting up AC. Don't take off. Watch camera. Is gimbal periodically shaking camera? If so, it could be the result of a crash. Mine flipped over during landing and I had to replace a damaged module.


Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots
 
85cbd890c05964f92a99112824404461.jpg


You missed that, I use heat gun to allow the gimbal lock to deform to a point so it is just touching the gimbal,It won't break if you do it careful it is like bending acrylic. I am waiting for 3rd party gimbal lock tho.
Yes, now I see! Thank you for all explanation. I may try that, until DJI do correct something, and realize that our money are not rubbish and when we pay they must provide us with at least the same amount of price. Let see what they will do about it...
 
Yes, now I see! Thank you for all explanation. I may try that, until DJI do correct something, and realize that our money are not rubbish and when we pay they must provide us with at least the same amount of price. Let see what they will do about it...
P4 really were almost prefect, they used a lot of parts from p4, and did not redesign for p4p. The Gray form with the p4p gimbal is what is killed those bubbles. If the gimbal lock is not as right the Gray form is a good idea.

But for that gimbal lock If you take out and not use the Gray form as soon as you unpack the drone, the drone gimbal might still acceptable, however if ppl keep on using both after the bubble will decay differently as time goes.

Yeah try that and tell me how is goes if you replace it[emoji6]

Sent from my SM-G9350 using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
Regarding shutter: Since he was recording video, it would not have been mechanical for sure. Video is always electronic even on the P4P. So, for video, the P4P can also suffer from jello effect.

Makes sense. Thank you for correcting me regarding the possibility of mechanical shutter during video.
 
Hi there - some guy pointed me to this in DJI Forum, after I reported the same problem on my P4P. I've already found this thread before, but decided to join here :)

My P4P had the Gimbal Lock (the hard plastik bracket) also mounted a bit to far to the center and maybe have stressed the gimbal. I also have heavy jello thru gimbal buzzing - in my case the gimbal buzzes in neutral position and stops buzzing when phantom is tilted forward - or - when camera is pointing vertically down. So I already guessed that there is some sort of leverage causing the gimbal to touch something.

BUT - I've already investigated and the internal gimbal parts do not touch anything as far as I could see - but yes - the little rubber balls don't look very promising or in good condition.

Question: Is there something I could do to test if the rubber balls are the fault? i.e. putting some sort of foam inside them (or something like that) just to see if the buzzing stops?

Actually, my gimbal is buzzing because it's motor is working, it does permanently try to level the horizon so there is visible little roll back/forth - my question is, how could this be related to bad rubber balls? the gimbal shouldn't work when being static (standing on ground, no motors)? ..except the gimbal is trying to stabilize the shake induced by itself ..

Look here how it starts buzzing and stops when being gently pushed by finger:

 
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