No ... aperture priority means priority is given to aperture.
The photographer sets the aperture and the camera adjusts other parameters - as you can see in the exif data.
Thank you - no offence but I've been a professional photographer for about 15 years so I totally know what the shooting modes mean. However you are sort of correct about the AEB but also a little wrong. I'm looking at this as if I would merge each bracketed shot after for an HDR or some masking in Photoshop.
With AV or A mode as it is on the Phantom, the camera will indeed adjust the settings according to the aperture you select - BUT if you're looking at this with AEB mode then it doesn't quite work like that. The camera will attempt to get a 'proper' (0) Exposure when you set it to AV mode. Then the camera will put in a -EV and and +EV. but each time it does this the camera will be actually exposing 'correctly' so won't be actually adding in the + or - properly. The only way to do this would be Manual.
In manual you would set the camera to the sweet spot f-stop. Not sure what this is yet because I've not worked it out. But say it's f8. So I set f8 and an ISO of 100. I then set the shutter speed accordingly . the - and + exposures are taken with the shutter speed at equal increments up and down. I don't know why on your EXIF data the exposure is set at 0.7 it's an odd integer. However if you are in full manual mode, the ONLY parameter you'd change would be shutter speed.
The issue is there is am issue with long exposures and those are prone to movements etc. Even more so in a drone, so if the exposures are coming in with a shutter speed of like 8 seconds you'll need to adjust the ISO to compensate, so if you're on 8 seconds at ISO 100 then ISO 200 will give you a 4 second exposure, and ISO 400 a 2 second exposure which is more realistic on the quad.
Shooting at ISO100 won't always mean a 'clean' shot, especially during a long exposure. More sensor noise WILL appear with long exposures as the sensor heats up, so even though there is more base noise at ISO400 long term it might be better.
I digress...
On my 'proper' camera - in this case the 1DXii I set 5 or 7 brackets for a bracketed shot. I then let the camera add or subtract from the base settings with the exposure set as the meter suggests on the camera as a 'base' exposure. THEN you let the camera over and under expose the series of shots.
You can't shoot proper bracketed shots in AV mode for this reason. The camera will ALWYAS be trying to give you a correct exposure and even though it's over and under exposing it will confuse the concept. It is like this on every camera - you can't automate this process and get satisfactory results.
So, to conclude, if you're wanting the 3 or 5 shots on AEB as a 'failsafe' to get the right exposure in certain situations then sure, use auto AEB but I don't think the process on the p4pis reliable, repeatable and I am still convinced it's not doing it properly. Other users here have agreed with me that there is something not quite right about it (apart from RAW EXIF being wrong).
The only way to have the control and do it properly is to use full manual. then you knock the exposure using the shutter speed down as many stops as you like, and up as many stops as you like. This is the only way to guarantee the metering is proportional across each frame.