Not the standard questions

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Had a productive day flying my new P4P today.
a few questions:

1 - the little foam block at the top of the gimbal. Is it supposed to go back when transporting or is it a throwaway packing?

2 - The controller always shows camera control locked - the front wheel. I finally figured out you have to click it to select teh parameter you want to adjust, but it would seem that once activated the wheel should adjust that value. It's making me click the button again to unlock after a few moments. Any way to disable this?

3 - still a bear adjusting balance between sky and ground. I found some Freewell graduated ND filters. I cannot find the ND rating for them which would be nice. Anyone use these?

Thanks!
 
For #1, I think it is a throw away, but I keep and use mine anyway, figure it can't hurt. If it's good enough to ship from the factory like that, I figure it could help over the life of the gimbal.
Just mho...
 
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1 - the little foam block at the top of the gimbal. Is it supposed to go back when transporting or is it a throwaway packing?
2 - The controller always shows camera control locked - the front wheel. I finally figured out you have to click it to select teh parameter you want to adjust, but it would seem that once activated the wheel should adjust that value. It's making me click the button again to unlock after a few moments. Any way to disable this?
3 - still a bear adjusting balance between sky and ground. I found some Freewell graduated ND filters. I cannot find the ND rating for them which would be nice. Anyone use these?
1. Throwaway item .. no need to keep it
2. That's just the way it is.
Most users don't need to make a lot of changes during a flight so it shouldn't be a big hassle.
3. Sounds like you have a big difference in brightness between the sky and ground.
Try to shoot with the sun instead of into the sun.
That way the sun is lighting the foreground and the sky isn't too bright.
 
I also wondered about Q1 and recently used the little foam block when travelling by aircraft between countries as an addition to the gimbal clamp, mimicking how it was originally shipped.

Meta4: You're obviously experienced and knowledgeable, assuring us it's not needed. Could you please explain a bit more - for piece of mind - as some of us are extra-cautious (or probably over-cautious).
 
Could you please explain a bit more - for piece of mind - as some of us are extra-cautious (or probably over-cautious).
The gimbal clamp holds my camera solidly in place and not having the foam piece for the last year hasn't caused any problems for my drone.
DJI just pack it extra securely for shipment.
If it was required, DJI would probably make it from something more substantial and that you need to use it.
 
3. I just point the camera down about 15-20 deg. so the sky is not taking up the top half of the frame. If the AE doesn't lighten it up enough, I use the exposure comp. wheel.

Please spend some time with your new toy before you spend a lot of money on accessories that might prove less useful later.
 
3. Sounds like you have a big difference in brightness between the sky and ground.
Try to shoot with the sun instead of into the sun.
.
Nope - just very bright sky
3. I just point the camera down about 15-20 deg. so the sky is not taking up the top half of the frame. If the AE doesn't lighten it up enough, I use the exposure comp. wheel.

Please spend some time with your new toy before you spend a lot of money on accessories that might prove less useful later.

Not sure why you felt a need to add that...
I don't use auto exposure since the camera will vary wildly depending on what it's looking at.
Seems I read that there's options buried somewhere to change the metering methods - anyone know? I'd love having a spot metering available.
I actually don't consider it a toy since I'm a photographer.
The fun part is entirely incidental ;)
 
The gimbal clamp holds my camera solidly in place and not having the foam piece for the last year hasn't caused any problems for my drone.
DJI just pack it extra securely for shipment.
If it was required, DJI would probably make it from something more substantial and that you need to use it.
I see a revised gimbal clamp on Amazon that in fact clamps to the "neck" at top where the foam was and eschews the use of the landing runners.
Gets good reviews but I wonder if anyone here has tried these - The stock gimbal clamp doesn't work with the Polarpro ND filters and it's a pain to wax on, wax off every time I fly. The revised clamp accommodates the aftermarket filters.
 
Not sure why you felt a need to add that...

I surely didn't intend to insult your credentials and only added that because you said you had a new drone - and I incorrectly assumed you were a 'newbie' (as they say) to the hobby, and possibly photography also.

I've done the 'buy a bunch of junk too soon' thing, and I feel like a lot of folks do too... just trying to keep a fellow 'newbie' from doing that.

I have accessories that I rushed and bought for gadgets before I realized I didn't need them anyway, and now don't use them, and if I'd just been patient I could have saved some bucks.

Have a nice day
 
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LOL - no offense taken - I was merely wondering what context it was in since it wasn't applicable to anything I posted.
I was offended or anything - no harm no foul - just a reminder of how online discussions need to be worded carefully.
Oh yeah - I collected stuff with my Mavic that isn't useless - I just didn't get the utility I thought I would, tablet holder for example.
Then I have some prop guards that were invaluable for practicing close in maneuvers but now just sit in a box.
 
Going back and reading my first post, it does seem snippy... sorry, not had enough coffee at the time i guess
 
I was offended or anything - no harm no foul - just a reminder of how online discussions need to be worded carefully.

I see what you mean about the wording :D

Oh, and I've been making a living in photography and electronics and in general just a gadget phreak for over 40 years now... and I still call 'em all TOYS! yeeehaa
 
I don't use auto exposure since the camera will vary wildly depending on what it's looking at.
Auto exposure can be very useful and gives very good results.
It just depends on how you use it.
Seems I read that there's options buried somewhere to change the metering methods - anyone know? I'd love having a spot metering available.
Up towards the top right of your screen, tap on the green square to cycle through some options.
When it's green it's focus, when it's yellow, you can find spot metering.
 
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Auto exposure can be very useful and gives very good results.
It just depends on how you use it.

Up towards the top right of your screen, tap on the green square to cycle through some options.
When it's green it's focus, when it's yellow, you can find spot metering.
Thanks for that!
Someone else told me auto exposure was good at the meetup so I tried it. It did not work well for me in the lighting we had. I got substantial flickering as the bird turned and the scenery changed. The balcones are white limestone and then some buildings also kicked in some light.
It was very noticeable.
 
Someone else told me auto exposure was good at the meetup so I tried it. It did not work well for me in the lighting we had. I got substantial flickering as the bird turned and the scenery changed. The balcones are white limestone and then some buildings also kicked in some light.
It was very noticeable.
Auto exposure is just like manual exposure.
It looks at the scene (or the spot if you use spot metering) and calculates an appropriate exposure level.
It's always up to the photographer to determine when average exposure is appropriate and if any correction is called for.
1/800th at f5.6 is 1/800th at f5.6 whether you pick it or your auto exposure does.
Shooting fast moving subjects, I wouldn't want to be fumbling with exposure controls.
DJI_0896a-X3.jpg
 
Respectfully I disagree they're the same - especially in video.
If using auto exposure and a cloud covers the sun momentarily it will react by bumping the exposure.
It's not instantaneous so it's obvious on the boundaries where the event happens in the video.
As I was flying yesterday the scene transitioned from a tree covered hillside to a sheer limestone cliff face in direct sun.
Of course the exposure changed since it saw a far higher average light reading from the cliff than the trees.
A still photograph not such a big deal since you'll set the exposure at the time of the photo.
A video you want exposure to be consistent over the entire length.
 
Auto exposure is just like manual exposure.
It looks at the scene (or the spot if you use spot metering) and calculates an appropriate exposure level.
It's always up to the photographer to determine when average exposure is appropriate and if any correction is called for.
1/800th at f5.6 is 1/800th at f5.6 whether you pick it or your auto exposure does.
Shooting fast moving subjects, I wouldn't want to be fumbling with exposure controls.
DJI_0896a-X3.jpg
Totally unrelated to the thread because I'm not at a level to comment on the subject. But I can comment on this photo. I've seen a couple times now and I get the same felling every time. That's an awesome pic !!!!
 
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Respectfully I disagree they're the same - especially in video.
If using auto exposure and a cloud covers the sun momentarily it will react by bumping the exposure.
It's not instantaneous so it's obvious on the boundaries where the event happens in the video.
As I was flying yesterday the scene transitioned from a tree covered hillside to a sheer limestone cliff face in direct sun.
Of course the exposure changed since it saw a far higher average light reading from the cliff than the trees.
A still photograph not such a big deal since you'll set the exposure at the time of the photo.
A video you want exposure to be consistent over the entire length.

I know what you are saying, but not sure how to resolve this. I have this occur frequently when I'm taking a video of someone surfing and I want to spin around them. Taking video around noon would eliminate this, but a lot of times the best conditions are at dawn (for surfing). If I use manual to lock the exposure the scene gets too bright and if I use auto you can see the adjustment in the video...I mainly deal with it by using auto and then I cut the adjustment out...
 
Good points with changing light in the morning.
Mine actually WAS with noon light - the white cliffs are what threw it off in auto - soon as it rotated around and got that light it dimmed considerably. I suppose I might be able to fix it but wow - what a shift. It also changed when I rose up on the tree side. When it cleared the top the sky threw it into shadows.
 

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