ND Filters
- Thread starter Dazzauk
- Start date
Nice work!
I wonder what program you use for edit?
2.16 in the video you have done some effect that makes it go faster. How you do that ?
Regards Peter
Thanks peter.
I'm using Final Cut Pro x. Only been using it for a month or so completely new to it.
But there is a option called speed ramp or ramp speed lol one of those and you can can select a range from a clip and have it speed up or slow down and it transitions from fast to slow smoothly.
I'm not an expert but if you need any help trying it PM me and I'll try explain in more detail.
Thank you. I'm new to this hobby as well. I learning premiere pro and I think that is quite similar to cut x so maybe there is something like ramp in there. If you like you can check my video I done yesterday
I'll take a look as soon as im back home. Out shopping with the wife right now ha ha.
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OMG - ONE OF MY MOST FAVORITE PLACES ON EARTH!!! (yes, all-caps for emphasis)
I absolutely LOVE LOVE LOVE York Maine! I've seen those guys surfing over on the Long Sands side in the middle of January!!
Nubble light would've been a GREAT addition to this video, IMO. There was this little seafood & sandwiches cafe/shack over on the road between long sands and Nubble light. I used to stop there for lunch all the time.
Right now I'm on the opposite side of the country on the Oregon coast (as my prior video can attest). It's beautiful in its own spectacular way here, but I'd dearly love to visit York again someday.
Your video is nice, and I can definitely see the difference the 'vivid' setting makes. See ... now you've gone and made my heart ache with longing ...
Hey guys any one had any problem with Gimbal balancing while using ND filter mine phantom 4 had a strange problem when the camera was parallel to the ground the video footage jumped continuously . I was using a variable ND filter which was cap on filter . Is the filter weight the problem
I think I got it. Filmed my house yesterday with a ND16 and in vivid auto. I do think it is to vivid. Especially the greens. It was very bright out and maybe should have used a ND32 or another setting. Some of the clips were taken the other morning with the polarizer ND 8 you can tell because the sky is not as blue. Some were shot yesterday these were shot around noon time and it was very bright outside .So two different days. The inside and fire pit walk were done with a yuneec 4k on my steady grip and the stills were shot with my cannon SX50
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Guys, if you are going to use ND filters and want to get the best quality from your media (which I assume if you've spent the money on filters,) you REALLY need to be shooting in manual mode and getting your camera settings dialed-in.
Leaving your camera in Auto is causing havoc for the sensor trying to compensate for what the filter is trying to accomplish. If you don't want to take the time to learn about ideal camera settings, I would skip using an ND filter as it's only going to eventually cause your more headaches as to why shots are not turning out as expected. Any time you place anything in front of the lens of a camera, it is going to diminish detail and the overall quality of the shot. ND filters are specifically designed to allow us to dial-in shutter speeds on our aerial cameras. You're not going to accomplish this leaving your camera in Auto mode (it doesn't care about the shutter speed to control light.)
Some helpful tips...
Some quick advice on ND filter selection as most newer users tend to choose the wrong or weaker choice based upon what their seeing on their screens...
Leaving your camera in Auto is causing havoc for the sensor trying to compensate for what the filter is trying to accomplish. If you don't want to take the time to learn about ideal camera settings, I would skip using an ND filter as it's only going to eventually cause your more headaches as to why shots are not turning out as expected. Any time you place anything in front of the lens of a camera, it is going to diminish detail and the overall quality of the shot. ND filters are specifically designed to allow us to dial-in shutter speeds on our aerial cameras. You're not going to accomplish this leaving your camera in Auto mode (it doesn't care about the shutter speed to control light.)
Some helpful tips...
- Lock your WB for conditions (or choose a middle of the road at about 5300K'ish)
- Lock ISO to 100. The moment you increase ISO, you're introducing more noise into your media.
- Set your aperture (5.6 is considered middle of the sweet spot on this camera in daylight)
- Set your shutter speed to double the frame rate you're shooting
- Set your sharpness at -1 to start. Experiment, then possibly -2 to eliminate moire or the oversharpness of this camera.
- Experiment with the color profiles. Vivid is okay but over-saturates (I wouldn't recommend this if you're planning to color correct or grade.) This is a personal choice. I shoot professionally in D-CINE for everything then grade.
Some quick advice on ND filter selection as most newer users tend to choose the wrong or weaker choice based upon what their seeing on their screens...
- ND-4 at dusk, dawn, or darker daytime conditions (heavy overcast)
- ND-8 with bright overcast to broken clouds
- ND-16 for partly sunny conditions
- ND-32 for full, bright sun
- ND-64 for sun with extra glare, such as snow
Thanks for the input !! I have copied this to my note pad and will try this all the next time Im out. Like I had said I thought some of my shots were just to vivid like the golf course greens and the clear blue sky
Do the P4P's have the same cracking frames problem as the P4's?
If so, that is a reason NOT to upgrade.
And AerialZ nailed it!
Learn to film in manual mode,....You'll get much better results.
How do I set the sharpness on the P4 I do not see where I can do this.
- Set your sharpness at -1 to start. Experiment, then possibly -2 to eliminate moire or the oversharpness of this camera.
Post's like these need to be stickied in a special section so they can be easily found for future reference.
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