Unfortunately, the connectors I was told to order are the jack style and not the plug style SMS, so they arrived but it's a no go! The combination is really very heavy, adding even more weight on a cable, so I am going to return everything and reorder with the correct lightweight connector, which will be available next week. Here's the correct one:HG2409MGU-RSP
So, your going for the car first gadget? I just talked to the company that has the 5' Hawking's for $45 to see if it was his last one or not, if not I'm going to get two for that price, cheapest around. Good job, to bad they messed up the order though man.
I don't understand why it seems your distance on same birds vary so much? I mean, 3 miles cannot be close to the limit as there are 6+ mile flights without power systems being altered. Is it super windy where you fly? Or are you a speed demon? Lol, I'm not being facetious, or breaking balls, I'm being serious. At least I see 5 mile flights that I thought weren't battery moddedThis implies you might be thinking of amplifying the video transmit signal at the craft. Be careful what you wish for. If you boost the craft video signal you could potentially start losing your control signal first, triggering RTH. Is that what you want?
If I can get out to about 3miles reliably (stock battery can't go much further) without boosting the craft video signal, I'm good. I'd rather be humble with 3mi and have control of the craft, always losing video first as a warning, versus flying out 3-4 miles, having video, but losing control signal all the time to trigger RTH. I think that's a recipe for disaster, however the few times my RTH kicked in, it returned to papa without a hitch. The problem is waiting and waiting for RTH and to regain control ages me.
Hey Jerimiah I know we been over this, but, I'm considering putting the 15dB hawking on the downlink feed side, the 9 for F/C and the 15 for video receiving only.....thoughts?
Control
The correct antennas with the SMA plug connectors have been back ordered for a month or so. The conversion connectors were a workaround that just didn't work out. Way too heavy with the N plug alone on the end, and even heavier with yet another converter connector, even if the correct one. Also, by ordering them factory installed on the end, there is no additional signal power loss, from adding additional converting connectors, changing the end piece configuration. The complete correct setup for our transmitters should be available to order next week.
What kind of range are you getting?This is my setup
Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots mobile app
It was told the power loss would only be 0.3 dB. That really wasn't the issue. It was the huge additional weight the N connector with the proper converter adds to the end, straining the already heavily overloaded transmitter, pulling it further apart. The screw holes are stripped. Granted, inside the car, it's sitting and supported on your lap, and not hanging from a lanyard around your neck, but the less weight hanging off the connectors, the better.
Agreed, I can fly a needles path and get to over a mile, but I've lost signal doing this, with 90' trees it seems boosted or non boosted, thru the trees I average about the exact same, 4300' or so. It does depend on the day, some days I get noise right off the bat, other days are much better and can really push the envelope.
It was/is the DJI app! lol maybe the assistant? I just some guys talking about it in the "news" section, no wonder I couldn't find it, had it the whole time. They were complaining that now everyone can come and steal your shyt now and know where we fly....I didn't get that from it, just didn't see anyone else using it.
I too, using a 300B have this problem, I bought a new hot glue gun the other day, and re-welded the seems. I personally cannot stand any, and I mean any, rattles or loose fitting anything, so the hot glue is a no brainer. I still have yet to redo my remote for the "clean install" that Jake thru in on the trade, but by looking at what I want to do, I may cut off the booster wings on the battery holder, and either place them in a better spot, or do away with them. I'm taking my time in engineering a correct and ergonomically comfortable way to both hold, and operate the controller in the field, with the large Itilite, then on to the inside version.
