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Discussion in 'Phantom FC40 Discussion' started by rogerdel, May 6, 2014.
Is the problem with flyaways a problem with the fc40 being on seperate freq.?
My take on it is not getting a Home Point registered correctly - If your Home Point is registered as the last takeoff point then when failsafe actuates the Phantom flies to what it has registered as Home Point .. Patience to get both GPS and Home Point locks is essential to having your Phantom return ...
Some here have speculated that it has something to do with GPS drift. My guess it's a combination of things, and while many flyaways are similar, others are unique, and some downright pilot error.
I take it that there is not a problem using the wi fi with the fc40 and the phantom?Or should you not use it?I am just a little nervous about this.I am a fixed wing pilot and this is going to be all new to me.Glad I found this fourm.
The 2.4ghz wifi camera should not cause any problems with the FC40's 5.8ghz controls
I had had a few so called fly always and 2 unexplained low battery landings when it was far away.
and from what I have been reading about most fly always I believe are actually caused by the same things. If its far away and the low battery alert is set to high and it instead of making it back to the home point and instead does an emergency landing and you never find it most are going to think oh well i must if had a fly away when it may have just landed some were. That is some thing I would call pilot/operator error.
The other one I have not seen any one else make the connection as to being the real culprit behind other true fly always and its caused by the VERY low quality switches used in the S1 and S2 switch on the transmitters. Many many many people have had there switchs fail with only a few hours of use. Including me I had the S2 switch fail with in the first 10 days of having my phantom and it was causing all sorts of problems and erratic flying. Then only a few days later after replacing the S2 switch with a much more heavier duty one and all the erratic flight problems going away. Then the other switch for the S1 started to fail and was some times causing problems. Were it would all by its self switch from GPS mode in to att mode and visa versa. WAY NOT COOL to have when you are flying and want it in gps and it don't go in to gps mode. in atti mode if you let go of the sticks and there is a wind it will ride the wind as far as it will take it.
with the S2 switch which would switch from home lock course lock and off by its self just from moving the controller can cause the phantom to reset its home point in flight if it switchs between modes 6 or 7 times in a short period of time. Some times when you want to manually record a new home point thats ok if you land it some place you want to land it and can see it then toggle the S2 switch a few times rapidly it will record a new home point and course lock direction. Tho if it happens when you don't want it to and don't realize it from the connection in the switch cutting in and out. If its far away or some place you cant even see it. If it goes in to fail safe and thinks it needs to return to home its going to return to the spot it thinks is the new home point which could be any ware it was when the home point got rerecorded when in flight. Which could be any were it was flying and not some place were you might see it when it lands. and you will be standing at the place you wanted it to land and be there waiting and waiting for it to come home only to end up feeling like you stood up on a prom date when it don't ever arrive.
Being i have run in to countless accounts of others that found 1 or both switches to be faulty its probably also happening to lots of others that never even knew there switch decided to crap out on them with in the first few days or weeks of having it. Being with out havering the craft in front of them after a flyaway or plugging it in to the naza assistant and fiddling with the switches on the control to make sure they are working right the only other way to know the switches failed is to open up the transmitter and check the switch's with an OHM meter to see they are wonky. and its not like every one knows how to do that or has a multi meter to check if that was the cause of there problem. So they will end up thinking either they did some thing wrong or that the phantom its self had some thing wrong with it that caused there fly away and there money to go bye bye. When it could of very well been one of them switch in the transmitter crapping the bed on them and never knowing it. and that I would say is NOT pilot error and would be a fault of DJI using the lowest quality switch i have ever seen in all my years of working on electronic being used on some thing so critical.
Wow great explanation!Thank you so much for that Maybe the fist thing to do is at least check them in the software or inside the unit with a meter or just change them out.
Very good interesting post can you put a link of the better quality toggle switches please.
Being I was in a jam and wanted a switch with out having to wait i just went to the hardware store and got the smallest physical sized single pole double throw (spdt) switchs they had which was a 25amp 120v switch with screw on connectors. and had to to a little hacking and cramming to make it fit in my controller. I had to drill out the holes to accommodate the larger shaft size that goes threw the hole. and I also had to turn mine side ways so it could clear the screw posts in side the tx so my repair was a lil bit unorthodox. But I did just look at partsexpress.com which is like a giant old school radio shack like radio shack used to 30 years ago.
speaking of which radio shack carrys the same oem switch that is in the DJI transmitter. and another one that is the same but blue instead of red. its a sub mini 2.5 amp spdt switch and the blue ones they have are 3amp. But I dont know if they are just as crappy or not. So I didn't want to chance it.
But parts express has some 6 amp heavy duty mini switches http://www.parts-express.com/spdt-mini- ... b--060-530 Ive used them for other things before and seem like a good switch. and it will fit in the transmitter with out having to have it up or drill any thing But being its a mini instead of a sub mini You just have to not use the cone shaped nut the is already on the transmitter that holds the switch in and also acts like a spacer for the sub mini switches to fit in the hole. But with out the cone the hole will fit the regular mini ones using the nuts that come with the new switches.
only thing is they need to be soldered or you have to get mini crimp on spade connectors if some on has no means to solder them in. Also if some is going to replace a switch to make sure to write down what color wires go to what post. or snap a pic first so you dont forget what wires go ware and end up making your switch positions be the wrong modes.
Great info.Thank You