Well done, thank you. Now, the main message I take from this is, if you have a P3S, there are very few options. I saw the PolarPro yesterday at Target (same price $50.00 as Amazon) and debating if a good buy. Anyone has comments/experience with those?
Detailed comparison of commonly used ND filters
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Think you need to go back to the first page color comparison charts. The Polar Pro run very warm and will add that tint to images. If you're shooting RAW, a color correction (even on video) can be somewhat easy to correct, but you want to try to get a filter that is as neutral as possible and shows the colors as they are. I have the NEEWER ND/PL set and am very happy with color rendition and the polarizing effect (especially when at 90 degrees to the sun). The color rendition is pretty much spot on, but for the price, I felt a strong price/performance ratio. There are other that are also very color neutral with a higher cost. Also, remember that there are different color profiles that can be chosen (based on preference) before you start your recording or photo session. Hope this helps.. Good flying..
Thank You, very valuable input that you're providing here.
I could not resist and ended up getting the PolarPro Set from Target (same price as online). Nothing too extreme but the one thing that comes to mind is ... $50.00 for 3 small plastic rings + glass ... What was the company thinking? The CP filter (Circular Polarizer) is not a true CP for those familiar with SLRs, and the smooth rotation afforded there. Again, really not impressed with the set ... both performance and price.
I could not resist and ended up getting the PolarPro Set from Target (same price as online). Nothing too extreme but the one thing that comes to mind is ... $50.00 for 3 small plastic rings + glass ... What was the company thinking? The CP filter (Circular Polarizer) is not a true CP for those familiar with SLRs, and the smooth rotation afforded there. Again, really not impressed with the set ... both performance and price.
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Well, Target should take them back.
The Neewer set are very much like DSLR CPs.. I have them marked for max and min and set before take off (since we can't adjust mid flight). this is the set I got from Amazon.. Same price.. https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Phant...uaazs-20&pf_rd_ptd=470938631&pf_rd_ied=507846
Thank you. It seems the Neewer are threaded, and as such, would not mount on the P3S. From what I've seen, there are not that many options for the Standard Version
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Jay,Well, Target should take them back.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Phant...uaazs-20&pf_rd_ptd=470938631&pf_rd_ied=507846
Could I trouble you to post a short description of how you marked your Neewer ND+CP filters for min and max?
I have the 4 filter set and love them so far, and flew comparison flights for each and can really see the difference the ND filters make, but I have trouble seeing any effect from the polarizing feature, even when turning the ring while holding my P3A at different angles to the sun.
Maybe I did it in an area where the polarizing effect wouldn't be as obvious?
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Interesting, the set I got has only 3 filters, not 4. Now, from my DSLR days, a CP is useful primarily to remove reflections, and as such, the effect is clearly visible when shooting water, or sometimes bright/reflective surfaces ... such a car with metallic silver paint.
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JB63, I was thinking along the same lines, of needing to test it around water, glass or other reflective surfaces.
I got the same set as in the link Jay posted, and was reluctant to get ND/CP filter combos based on other comments, but this comparison thread was so informative that I decided to give them a shot. With some knowledge of how to set reference points like he described, I think I'll be better able to learn how to get the best results with the polarizer functionality.
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I got the same set as in the link Jay posted, and was reluctant to get ND/CP filter combos based on other comments, but this comparison thread was so informative that I decided to give them a shot. With some knowledge of how to set reference points like he described, I think I'll be better able to learn how to get the best results with the polarizer functionality.
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Thinking a bit more about this, I wonder of the dslr CPs have adjustable angle simply because one cna never know the position of polarization as it depends on the thread of the lens. Pushing this argument even further, thry do polarized sunglasses as well, and in those, there is no rotation to play with. As such, I think all that is needed is to find such positions on the Phantom filters and simply mark them once and for all.
I have a set of 3 polar pro filters for ph3 standard. They just push on not like ph4 which screw on. They will work on ph4 but just have to push over camera lens. I upgraded to ph4 & bought the bower 4 set that screw on. Used 1 time new sell for $30 paid $50 for the polar pro set . Paid 50 for bower also. Good information
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As someone said, everything is relative to where the filter lines up when screwed on but also to both halves. What I did was hold the filters up at 90 degrees to the sun and rotate. It's a lot easier to see this against a blue sky. Rotate the outer lens while holding the half that screws on steady. Look for the "darkest" blue sky. That's your maximum. Draw a line (silver fine point sharpie works well) across both rings. Rotate the outer ring to the point where there is almost no change to the blue sky. That's the minimum point.. now you only want to make a line on the half that screws on with a different color (or just scratch a line). Max is when the same color lines align after being screwed on and min is when the two different half colors align (usually 90 degrees of rotation). Works for me.
And yes, water has a direct benefit. With the Neewer and the rings set to max, when I fly over some nearby small shallow "big streams/small river" the glare off the top of the water is gone and can see through to the underlying river bed (again though only because it is so shallow), with just a straight ND (I also have a couple of DJI ND only filters) there is no polarizing effect on the water and the glare is still there.
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My pleasure. We're all here to help each other. Post a message if you go this route and how you like the results. The Neewer are a little bit heavier, so the nose of the camera will point down when the aircraft isn't turned on, but centers perfectly once on. I do a gimbal calibration with the filters on just for good measure.
For those looking for an alternative to PolarPro for the Phantom 3 Standard, I recently picked up a set of Digital Concepts filters from Amazon. There are different sets. Currently I have the ND16, 32 and 64. I'll be ordering the CPL, ND4 and ND8 later this week.
I have limited experience with them so far because the weather here hasn't cooperated. But from what little use they've gotten, I'm very happy with them.
I have limited experience with them so far because the weather here hasn't cooperated. But from what little use they've gotten, I'm very happy with them.
Why does Polar Pro ND 8 look so much softer than the stock UV filter? Is glass that poor or did something change between the shots that influences sharpness?
Did you adjust the exposure to make up for the ND filter. Looks like you did, so what's up with the drastic color change? Did you change any setting between the shots or perhaps auto white balance instead of same custom WB for all ND and UV examples?
Thanks!
Did you adjust the exposure to make up for the ND filter. Looks like you did, so what's up with the drastic color change? Did you change any setting between the shots or perhaps auto white balance instead of same custom WB for all ND and UV examples?
Thanks!
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If you go back to the very first page, the OP shows the comparison between filters. I did an extensive color measurement between them (somewhere in the thread).. The Polar Pro and some others shift warm, rendering them more to the red side. A ND should not introduce a color shift (even with PL involved). An ND vs. UV will be darker unless you adjust shutter speed, etc.
Yeah, clearly I saw the OP given that I'm referring to it in my message and even asking why does PolarPro filter introduce softness seen in the OP's examples
I also realize that ND's should be neutral, which is why I'm wondering why PolarPros introduce so much warmth. It could be that the OP was shooting with AUTO WB instead of manual, which would likely be thrown off by the different filters. Thanks anyway, but my questions remain... I do not like the results and am hoping it was an "operator error".
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Yeah, clearly I saw the OP given that I'm referring to it in my message and even asking why does PolarPro filter introduce softness seen in the OP's examples
The OP covered his method somewhere in here and the warm color of the Polar Pro was a result of Polar Pro, not his method. NDs (even for DSLRs) can have a warm cast.. all depends on the glass. There's a new outfit in San Francisco (Breakthrough Technology) who is turning out some of the best filters around. Maybe he'll turn to Drone filters.
In the meantime, I picked up the Neewer ND+PL set.. Like it a lot and posted images here. Of course with the PL, there's a need to get best results at about 90 degrees to the sun.. The Neewer set is a Circular Polarizer..Thanks. What are your thoughts on the softness? I am about to buy PolarPro ND filters for my P4 Pro, but not gonna be using them if they introduce such horrible softness...The OP covered his method somewhere in here and the warm color of the Polar Pro was a result of Polar Pro, not his method. NDs (even for DSLRs) can have a warm cast.. all depends on the glass. There's a new outfit in San Francisco (Breakthrough Technology) who is turning out some of the best filters around. Maybe he'll turn to Drone filters.
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I'm not sure what to say as I think there are Polar Pro owners here as well as I believe the Polar Pro folks drop in from time to time as well (although I've never seen them address issues raised in this thread). First, I think we can attribute a "part" of the softer appearance to how much muddier the color is.. Not saying there isn't softness there, but especially in comparison to others, the white lettering doesn't look as crisp, in part, because the "whiteness" is not there. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that if you don't like either of the two flaws (color and clarity) that you may want to look at one of the other brands.. Clearly there are several that look to provide a better image quality. I like the Neewer as I said, but I have also said that compared to say the DJI straight ND-8, that the Neewer ND/PL-8 is about a half stop darker (I have both). The DJI have nothing on them to tell you which it is, so u need to mark them some how.. Also, I find the DJI much more prone to possible bending out of shape. The aluminum keeps the weight down (same as the stock UV filter that comes) but they seem like they could bend out of shape very easily. I've no experience with the TACO, but they (at least color wise) seem to be very close to being a pure ND (no color cast). Amazon has a pretty good return policy.. I'd try a couple of different brands and see what appeals to you the most... but again it would appear that Polar Pro have a couple of strikes going against them. PP also has their Cinema series which may be better. In fact there are several more vendors out there now that the OP just didn't have a chance to test. Bottom line (for me) at the price of the Neewer and with the added benefit of having circular polarizers built in, the choice was simple. Hope this helps... I imagine you saw them but look at my post (post #57) for samples with the Neewer.. Images are tack sharp, and color saturation of the sky and trees, etc. is great..
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