Damaged motor not spinning right. Now neither new or old is spinning at all.

[Powered_Lawndart]

The damaged motor would spin, but not at full speed and had slightly more physical resistance when I spun it by hand. I figured it was a bearing or something.

I ordered a new DJI replacement. I just clipped out the old one and temporarily connected the new one by twisting the wires together. When I powered up the drone that motor did nothing. So I swapped the damaged one back in to see what happened and got the same result, nothing.

I've done testing/repairs this way on my P1 before with no problem at all. Is there something I'm missing? Have I damaged my ESC and it just didn't show up at first? God I hope not since it's integrated that would mean a whole motherboard swap is needed. Is the board somehow sensing it's not an ideal connection (higher resistance?) and now allowing the motors to spin?

I'm got that sinking feeling in my stomach, someone please have some good news for me.

Oh I'm also further hamstrung by the fact that my phone died a few days ago and it was the only device I had that would run DJI Go, so I can't even look at any telemetry that might help.

 

[Powered_Lawndart]

So am having the strangest problem getting solder to stick to the wires coming from the ESC. I'm using flux core solder, and even though it didn't want to take any, even after sanding/filing to get past any possible coating, I finally got a very ugly joint to stick. Once I did the new motor fired right up just fine.

Now I just need to figure out why the hell the solder doesn't want to stick and get good solder joints.

 

[Steve7777]

So am having the strangest problem getting solder to stick to the wires coming from the ESC. I'm using flux core solder, and even though it didn't want to take any, even after sanding/filing to get past any possible coating, I finally got a very ugly joint to stick. Once I did the new motor fired right up just fine.

Now I just need to figure out why the hell the solder doesn't want to stick and get good solder joints.

I get that problem sometimes and dotting a bit of flux paste on the component even when using flux-core solder can help.

Maybe your iron needs to be a bit hotter or you need to try some leaded solder if you're currently using lead-free. Some of the cheepo rolls of lead-free solder from China are absolute rubbish too...

If you're not an experienced solderer, then there are lots of videos on Youtube highlighting tips and possible problems in technique.

 

[With The Birds]

The motor fly leads are simply extensions of the magnet wire forming the motor windings. They are seperately insulated. As you have learnt they are almost impossible to solder absent thoroughly removing the insulation. I have worked with this insulation type extensively and found the best means of preparing the wire for soldering is to immerse the ends in a solder bath. A sharp blade will also work to scrape the insulation off howevernyiu don’t always get a satisfactory connection.

The motors are supplied with the leads pre tinned and ready for termination at the main board solder pads.

Personally I would get a new motor and do it properly.

 

[Powered_Lawndart]

Steve, I tried flux, leaded solder, and a hotter iron. None of it worked. What finally did work was to use a blow torch to burn the enamel off. After that the solder stuck fine. I've worked with magnet wire before but never had this much trouble with it.

 

[Powered_Lawndart]

Yeah birds, I know I made more work for myself splicing them in this way but I didn't want to solder directly on the board with the tools I had available.

There was no problem with the leads on the motor I was using, because as you said those leads were pre-tinned. It was the other end, what I'd left connected to the board from the previous motor that was a challenge. I've never had that much trouble getting the enamel off a wire before. Oh well, works fine now.