The camera is supposed to do 140, 120 and 90, but I don't see anywhere to change this. I got to fly my first flight with the vision, and despite the sun setting leaving me low light, I was still able to fly the battery until it was below 22 percent. I was airborne for about 28 minutes. Did have a wifi loss in my back yard due to power lines, so until I get that sorted out I will be flying line of site only, but over all it was a great experience and the vision stayed right where I put it. Now I just need to figure out how to adjust the fov for my vids and pics. Any help would be appreciated.
Anyone figure out how to change the FOV yet?
- Thread starter vbluguitar
- Start date
Nevermind - when you pick either 1080p or 1080i there is a menu that gives you options for the different FOVs
too bad it doesn't work with the camera, but I am sure you are just cropping anyway.
So far the vision is cool, but the wifi range isn't anywhere near 300 meters. I was dropping wifi at about 110 feet. Will do more testing in different location tomorrow. We have a lot of local wifi in my cul-de-sac so that may be an issue. The quad itself never lost connection, just the wifi.
too bad it doesn't work with the camera, but I am sure you are just cropping anyway.
So far the vision is cool, but the wifi range isn't anywhere near 300 meters. I was dropping wifi at about 110 feet. Will do more testing in different location tomorrow. We have a lot of local wifi in my cul-de-sac so that may be an issue. The quad itself never lost connection, just the wifi.
Excuse my ignorance....does this mean I'm stuck with 140 fov for still photography? I'm just starting out and I'm trying to get close up shots - nests, broken slates etc. Any suggestions on optimum settings?
Interested in the FOV. For the stills myself.
Am getting ready to purchase either a vision or phantom 2.
Like stills so vision is a plus. But like the phantom 2 spec too.
Am getting ready to purchase either a vision or phantom 2.
Like stills so vision is a plus. But like the phantom 2 spec too.
My understanding...as well as my P2V experiences, tell me that it's only in the video mode where you can change the field of view...and I don't think you do that by changing the focal length of the lens at all, but rather by just masking a portion of the FOV..(Field of View) off.... In still shots, you will get the full wide angle view...and to alter that, you will need to crop it in your Photo Editing program. I know for those who value the "flying" as opposed to the "photos", having the very wide...fish-eye view may be a good thing....but I think there could be a compromise of a less 'fishy' look and still have a good FPV ability.
My own PPOV...(Personal Point of View!!) is that while the camera and the ability to access some very unique locations and views... is a very compelling reason for getting the P2V, I think the camera should get a few improvements... I too, would like to see even a limited Optical Zoom and a setting to allow automatic "Bracketing" of the camera...this would allow quick and easy HDR (High Dynamic Range) operation...which I think would be a tremendous feature to have on this amazing platform...! And since so many of us have purchased the P2V for the expanded flight times and the enhanced photo options, having the ability to use a gimbal would really add a new dimension to the side to side operations....without showing the tell-tale sideways tilt of the image... I'd be willing to sacrifice a few minutes of total flight time for this option.
My own PPOV...(Personal Point of View!!) is that while the camera and the ability to access some very unique locations and views... is a very compelling reason for getting the P2V, I think the camera should get a few improvements... I too, would like to see even a limited Optical Zoom and a setting to allow automatic "Bracketing" of the camera...this would allow quick and easy HDR (High Dynamic Range) operation...which I think would be a tremendous feature to have on this amazing platform...! And since so many of us have purchased the P2V for the expanded flight times and the enhanced photo options, having the ability to use a gimbal would really add a new dimension to the side to side operations....without showing the tell-tale sideways tilt of the image... I'd be willing to sacrifice a few minutes of total flight time for this option.
I was out at 150 meters, with both wi-fi and controls fully operational. Videofeed was mayba 1-2 seconds behind at worst, but got some nice video. This was in an area with basicly no other wi-fi sources though 
This is not a zoom lens, it's wide-angle only. You can always crop the wide-angle picture later on your computer or phone to whatever size you want.1t-bag said:
Your WiFi is loosing connection? Make sure there is NOTHING between you and the Vision. No trees, buildings, uneven terrain. I recently was flying my Vision beyond 1000 feet at 200 feet high with good FPV video. Then a few trees got between me and the Vision and I lost WiFi connection and FPV. You can't see the Vision at 1000 feet.
I've lost Wifi at 50 feet because the Vision was flying in a ditch below me. (uneven terrain)
If your FPV video is lagging a few seconds - change your PreView quality in the DJI app to a lower quality. I selected the lowest preview quality and my FPV video is almost instant even at 1000 feet.
I've lost Wifi at 50 feet because the Vision was flying in a ditch below me. (uneven terrain)
If your FPV video is lagging a few seconds - change your PreView quality in the DJI app to a lower quality. I selected the lowest preview quality and my FPV video is almost instant even at 1000 feet.
iquittoo said:
are you using something to extend your Wifi (something like Uncle Fester is using)?
This has been discussed in other threads but to answer your two questions yes you can change field of view for both pictures and video and here is how.
For video when you're connected to your camera you go to settings to change your resolution andna second slider beside the resolution is for field of view which looks like a screen with arrows pointing either way. You want the narrowist field of view for 90 degree. This will minimize most of the fish eye effect seen in medium and wide angle shots.
For picture taking you have to go to a different setting which is to select
between Small Medium and Large. That changes field of view for your pictures altho even at small it is a slightly wider field of view than 90 degree.
Still photo second option is to use the lenses profiles for Photoshop and correct for the distortion there or I'm other programs that support adobe lens profiles. It can also be done without.
For video when you're connected to your camera you go to settings to change your resolution andna second slider beside the resolution is for field of view which looks like a screen with arrows pointing either way. You want the narrowist field of view for 90 degree. This will minimize most of the fish eye effect seen in medium and wide angle shots.
For picture taking you have to go to a different setting which is to select
between Small Medium and Large. That changes field of view for your pictures altho even at small it is a slightly wider field of view than 90 degree.
Still photo second option is to use the lenses profiles for Photoshop and correct for the distortion there or I'm other programs that support adobe lens profiles. It can also be done without.
segura said:I was out at 150 meters, with both wi-fi and controls fully operational. Videofeed was mayba 1-2 seconds behind at worst, but got some nice video. This was in an area with basicly no other wi-fi sources though
If you are cutting out at 150 meters you may be using your phantom I'm an area with a lot of interference, you're not in line of sight or you don't have both of your antennas oriented correctly. My Phantom 2 Vision easily goes beyond 300 meters without a problem and km fact I did another 300 meter long flight today. I had my Phantom at 145 feet altitude and distance of 920 feet with the WiFi still indicating full signal. That right there is over 300 meters and I could have gone far further. I've also had my Phantom 200 feet away and at a 650 foot altitude also with full signal. So when used right this baby really goes far. Best of luck flying.
The "Photo Size" setting has NO effect on picture width. Still photos on the P2V are always 4384 pixels wide - the full width of the sensor. The only thing the (poorly-named) "Photo Size" setting does is change the HEIGHT, which gives you different aspect ratios (4:3, 3:2, or 16:9).BenDronePilot said:
There's really no reason to ever use a Photo Size setting other than LARGE. That way it uses the maximum number of pixels, and you can later crop it any way you want, using your phone or computer. IMO, the only reason to use Small or Medium is if you want the Phantom to do the cropping for you.
Re: BenDronePilot
BenDronePilot -
The S M L setting in the camera is for JPG size, not FOV.
I have not checked yet to see if the FOV setting for video carries over to the stills but I would bet not.
When taking stills it uses 100% of the 14MP sensor, VS video which crops it to the aspect ratio you choose in the res settings.
BenDronePilot -
The S M L setting in the camera is for JPG size, not FOV.
I have not checked yet to see if the FOV setting for video carries over to the stills but I would bet not.
When taking stills it uses 100% of the 14MP sensor, VS video which crops it to the aspect ratio you choose in the res settings.
vbluguitar said:
Up in the mountains of Wyoming where there is no Wifi, no cell service, nothing, my Wifi signal goes further than the Controller connection does. I still have a FPV view after the phantom has flown beyond controller range.
The FOV settings only affect the video recording field of view. The Camera captures the full frame, and you will have to use your editing software (picasa, Lightroom, etc.) to crop the images down. This is the same on the Go Pro, no big deal. Just crop.
As far as range, My first P2V (which got replaced due to the battery issue) had awful ranges issues with both the tx/rx and wifi. My replacement P2V has been flawless and I never get disconnected unless at extreme ranges. That said I am one of those who had the camera go bricky brick after the 1.1.9 update. Can't win them all I guess. I have already purchased a Go Pro and replaced the FC200 as I have shoots all next week and need the photo portion working.
Ironically, I did a shoot yesterday and the Go Pro images are WAY nicer than the images I have gotten off the FC200, but I would like to see if that changes when I actually get raw working. If not, I may just sell the FC200 and buy a gimbal for the go pro so I can do video too. Sucks not to have instant feedback though, and the wi fi range on the Go Pro is way shorter. Oh well. At least I can get my work done.
As far as range, My first P2V (which got replaced due to the battery issue) had awful ranges issues with both the tx/rx and wifi. My replacement P2V has been flawless and I never get disconnected unless at extreme ranges. That said I am one of those who had the camera go bricky brick after the 1.1.9 update. Can't win them all I guess. I have already purchased a Go Pro and replaced the FC200 as I have shoots all next week and need the photo portion working.
Ironically, I did a shoot yesterday and the Go Pro images are WAY nicer than the images I have gotten off the FC200, but I would like to see if that changes when I actually get raw working. If not, I may just sell the FC200 and buy a gimbal for the go pro so I can do video too. Sucks not to have instant feedback though, and the wi fi range on the Go Pro is way shorter. Oh well. At least I can get my work done.
Topeeka said:
The platform moves too much between shots and the buffer processing would be way to slow.
You can however create an HDR image as follows:
1. Shoot the scene with an accurate exposure
2. Back at home, load the image, let's call it '1234.dng' into Photoshop and make any changes you think necessary for white balance. Now save the image as as a non destructive file type - e.g. '1234.psd'
3. Load the original image (1234.dng), make the identical white balance changes, and then increase the exposure by two stops. Save the result as a non destructive file type with a different file name - e.g. '1234-high2.psd'
3. Take '1234.dng', make the identical white balance changes, and increase the exposure by one stop and then save it as '1234-high1.psd'
4. Take '1234.dng', make the identical white balance changes, and decrease the exposure by two stops and then save it as '1234-low2.psd'
5. Take '1234.dng', make the identical white balance changes, and decrease the exposure by one stop and save it as '1234-low1.psd'
You now have five images, one which is two stops over-exposed, one which is one stop over-exposed, your correctly exposed image and two that are under-exposed by two stops and one stop respectively.
6. Load all five images into Photoshop and go to File . Automate > Merge to HDR Pro
Et voila, you just take it from there
The above process enables you to get fairly close to what you would normally achieve by bracketing your shots in camera when it's on a tripod, and is all due to the wonders of RAW.
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