all 4 esc errors

[With The Birds]

Forget seperate flux- we aren’t doing plumbing. Flux cored solder will work better and is easier to work with.

Personal preference.
There are differences between the techniques used by plumbers and electricians. I was hoping to not complicate the task, as I think the op has his hands full.
As for working better with flux core type solder in this instance, I think not.

I don’t know how many terminations of this type you might have performed however I can say with confidence and from experience that to use a seperate flux will provide no benefit here. It certainly won’t be of any use in removing the polymer insulation as you have suggested it might.

 

[Chipmun2]

I don’t know how many terminations of this type you might have performed however I can say with confidence and from experience that to use a seperate flux will provide no benefit here. It certainly won’t be of any use in removing the polymer insulation as you have suggested it might.

I think we should review the numerous comments above:

1) there are different solders with acid (plumbing) or resin (electronic) flux in them. These fluxes can also be sold in separate containers. Obviously we should not use acid flux on electrical connections!

2) if the wires that are used to make a magnet in a motor are extended out to make a power wire they can not be simply spliced, they may be covered in insulation ( clear) that is non visible. This insulation must be removed To solder. When soldering tiny electrical connections the metal must be clean, possibly pre soldered and shiny. A suction gun(spring loaded syringe) is useful tool to remove excess hot solder.

3) there are also different silicones used to glue/lubricate/ seal joints. It should be noted that some silicones contain noxious chemicals such as acetic acid which can play havoc inside electric circuits. I once suggested a colleague use silicone to seal a glass container and he glued it together with silicone glue in irreversible manner! It required a sledge hammer to remove the contents.

I am sure the other readers of this forum can offer additional comments/information, not just for readers to complete these tasks but also to understand what is actually be done to your drone!

 

[Fly Dawg]

I think we should review the numerous comments above:

I think we have heard enough of rehashing the obvious for those of us who actually do have experience with such tasks. Performing these on the drone are no different than they are for other similar tasks, as far as soldering, flux, cleaning, and such are pretty obvious for the ones who have had their inputs here. I think the OP is now really more frustrated now, than the reason for the initial post.

 

[JoBe]

Another common issue is cutting the motor wires and not removing the enameling (coating) on the wires before soldering them and putting it all back together. We seem to see that one a few times per month, though we’ve seen it a couple times just this past week.

i have used sand paper to remove the coating on the wires. i told the guy in the other thread last week the same thing. it seems to work well for me and easy to solder after.

Here it is:
esc errors

 

[Starz]

Interesting how complicated a simple task can get.
Good luck op. Seems to be enough I.q. here as to overflow a large boat, so I’ll cross my fingers for you and bow out.

 

[With The Birds]

I think we should review the numerous comments above:

1) there are different solders with acid (plumbing) or resin (electronic) flux in them. These fluxes can also be sold in separate containers. Obviously we should not use acid flux on electrical connections!

2) if the wires that are used to make a magnet in a motor are extended out to make a power wire they can not be simply spliced, they may be covered in insulation ( clear) that is non visible. This insulation must be removed To solder. When soldering tiny electrical connections the metal must be clean, possibly pre soldered and shiny. A suction gun(spring loaded syringe) is useful tool to remove excess hot solder.

3) there are also different silicones used to glue/lubricate/ seal joints. It should be noted that some silicones contain noxious chemicals such as acetic acid which can play havoc inside electric circuits. I once suggested a colleague use silicone to seal a glass container and he glued it together with silicone glue in irreversible manner! It required a sledge hammer to remove the contents.

I am sure the other readers of this forum can offer additional comments/information, not just for readers to complete these tasks but also to understand what is actually be done to your drone!

Nice summary of what, at least to the extent they might be relavent considerations, were seemingly already covered in the thread.

You might be under a misconception with respect to fluxes. Rosin flux is very much an acid when heated. It performs several important functions being corrosion removal, assistance with flow and preventing oxidisation while soldering.

With respect to your point 2 magnet wire is always insulated. It would be useless for the intended purpose otherwise. Tiny electrical connections are no different to large ones so far as the soldering process goes. You obviously need more heating capacity for larger connections and techniques vary but the process doesn’t. Tinning (pre-soldering as you put it) is a useful technique that may have some application here although the preference would be to mechanically secure the connection (twist the wires together before soldering). There is no need for a suction gun, presumably the OP will be joining wires unless the intent is to acquire new motors. With respect to the ESC board connections applying just enough heat to remove the old wires and leaving the existing solder to sweat the new wires on (they are pre tinned but a little extra tinning/fresh rework is probably a good idea) works very well. No need to remove the existing solder.

I don’t think the OP had to worry about silicones. If your concerned about the factory completed motor terminations (installing new motors properly) hot melt or single part RTV silicone (non corrosive) should work well to keep things in place.

 

[With The Birds]

I think we have heard enough of rehashing the obvious for those of us who actually do have experience with such tasks. Performing these on the drone are no different than they are for other similar tasks, as far as soldering, flux, cleaning, and such are pretty obvious for the ones who have had their inputs here. I think the OP is now really more frustrated now, than the reason for the initial post.

You did learn what magnet wire is though eh?

 

[Fly Dawg]

You did learn what magnet wire is though eh?

Already knew what that was.....it was the stranded extensions that I didn't recall.....Have not seen a "stranded" magnet wire before.....Although I have seen similar coated stranded wiring....just never called it magnet wire....

 

[With The Birds]

Already knew what that was.....it was the stranded extensions that I didn't recall.....Have not seen a "stranded" magnet wire before.....Although I have seen similar coated stranded wiring....just never called it magnet wire....

Cool.... By stranded extensions I was referring to the three coloured sheaths that each contain two strands of magnet wire. If you follow any one of them into the motor you will find that each goes to one end of a stator winding and from there forms several more windings before coming back out of the motor in one continuous length.