Advice on which Phantom to buy....

fastfed · Aug 4, 2016

haha my phone will play 4k , the codec and output for 4k isn't the problem, it's the editing that puts a computer to its knees. Even with my sysyem, I7 4790k, 980ti, 32gb ram,2 samsung 850 SSD"s in raid 0.
but, it sure does look great! Personally I 60fps>resolution.

I love the look of a high frame rate video, it makes it so much sharper and once you're used to it , its hard going back.

I cannot even play a game unless I'm getting at least 90fps now, I just wish we could have 1440P @ 60fps

Deimos · Aug 4, 2016

theTastyCat said:
I started with a P3A a month ago and upgraded my camera/gimbal to a P3P's only for the higher downlink speed, giving a clearer live FPV. If you're primarily doing high-altitude flight and photos/video, an Advanced would be fine. I like to go low-and-slow beneath trees just for fun, and that's where the Advanced's downlink wasn't fast enough to make it safe and fun. Man, $559? I'd buy that Advanced for sure and then trade gimbal/cam up to a Pro if you felt you needed it!

Welcome to the party you won't regret it!

Hi, can you explain the difference between the camera on the pro and adv re the speed I did not realise there was a speed issue as they both have the lightbridge.

pro and adv like for like

Deimos
Aug 4, 2016

pro and adv like for like

Donallen · Sep 19, 2016

Downing always depends on environment they stream 720 live feed at the same speed

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G750A using PhantomPilots mobile app

Tommy Iversen · Oct 13, 2016

flpholt said:
p3 advanced $599 on amazon right now would jump all over that fast

The P3A/P3P are quite prone to compass errors. I had two P3A and had to return them both. (I have been told, that DJI knows about this, and will in many cases replace the compass unit with another enhanced model upon repair, but who wants to send it in, when buy a brand new drone....). Anyway, After that i´ve opted for the P4 as it had a good history concerning these problems with 2 onboard compasses and all. Flyes like a dream, with no problems. Still, i was probably just unlucky, and if you get a fully functional P3A, this is still a very good drone and probably the best choice if you could get it for $599.

MultiMegalomaniac · Oct 23, 2016

Charlie Waterhouse said:
What am I loosing (other than 4k and the "don't smack things" sensor) between P3A and P4? And I saw a P3A at B&H for $559

The P3P has a USB video downlink as opposed to a typical Wi-Fi downlink. This provides a better live video feed (depending on your distance and interference from the controller to the drone.

m0j0 · Oct 31, 2016

I'm revising my statement. Get a P4.. avoid the cracked shell stuff it's a real headache. I have never had a compass error of significance in 300 plus flights so that wouldn't be a factor in my decision but..cracked shells X2 is enough for me to cut bait and move to a P4

Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots

GadgetGuy · Oct 31, 2016

m0j0 said:
I'm revising my statement. Get a P4.. avoid the cracked shell stuff it's a real headache. I have never had a compass error of significance in 300 plus flights so that wouldn't be a factor in my decision but..cracked shells X2 is enough for me to cut bait and move to a P4

Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots

My P4 arm cracked almost all the way around the right rear motor. Stress cracks can happen on any of the Phantoms. Nothing a little gaffers tape couldn't fix!

m0j0 · Oct 31, 2016

Really.... I didn't think the 4 got stress cracks.

Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots

GadgetGuy · Oct 31, 2016

m0j0 said:
Really.... I didn't think the 4 got stress cracks.

Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots

They can and they do. Mine did, and I know another long distance flyer who had the same issue. Always on the rear, where the forces are greatest. Mine didn't occur until after covering an Unlimited boat race, where I was chasing the boats and flipping around from side to side, flying backwards and then flipping around. It took its toll. Never had cracks on any of my P3P's. Most P4 flyers probably don't push them hard enough to develop stress cracks. As I said earlier, after first freaking out (I almost flew with the motor ready to snap off, but, luckily, I discovered the top and bottom cracks while cleaning salt spray off the lens!), I fixed the problem with well placed gaffers tape, instead of reshelling, which would have been a major pain.