Tuning for videography (Tarot tilt, "fluid pan mode")

tlr

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I've installed a Tarot T-2D gimbal on my Phantom 1.1.1, and it's great, but I'm still not happy with a few aspects of using it for videography, in particular the Phantom's yaw control sensitivity, and the gimbal tilt control.

I have the Tarot's tilt control hooked up to Naza's F2 port, and despite trying numerous settings on both the Naza and Tarot the tilt doesn't respond until I move the tilt level about halfway, in either direction. i.e. if the lever is at 0% I have to move it to about 50% before the gimbal begins to tilt, and if it's at 100% I have to move it to about 50% before it begins to tilt. I'm not sure if it's a transmitter/Naza issue, or a Tarot issue. Does anyone have example settings for both the Naza and Tarot I can try?

Is there any way to configure one of the switches on the Phantom to enable something like DSLRPro's "fluid pan mode" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGSaSGKPr6c), which halves the yaw control range (making it easier to do slow pans), or would I need to upgrade to another controller like the Futaba?
 
To clarify, I would like the gimbal to range from 0 to -90 degrees.

After some more investigation, I think part of the problem is there's a little bit of play in the lever, but I'm also unable to get the full range of the level mapped to 0 to -90 degrees using any combination of Tarot and Naza settings.

The problem seems to be that Naza's "Servo travel limit" creates dead zones if you don't set min/max to -1000 and 1000 (rather than "scaling" the output) and I can't get the Tarot to map -1000 to 1000 to 0 to -90 degrees.

I'm pretty new to RC so maybe I'm just doing something wrong...

This thread suggests opening the transmitter and manually moving the pot during calibration... http://www.djiguys.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1570
 
tlr said:
To clarify, I would like the gimbal to range from 0 to -90 degrees.

After some more investigation, I think part of the problem is there's a little bit of play in the lever, but I'm also unable to get the full range of the level mapped to 0 to -90 degrees using any combination of Tarot and Naza settings.

The problem seems to be that Naza's "Servo travel limit" creates dead zones if you don't set min/max to -1000 and 1000 (rather than "scaling" the output) and I can't get the Tarot to map -1000 to 1000 to 0 to -90 degrees.

I'm pretty new to RC so maybe I'm just doing something wrong...

This thread suggests opening the transmitter and manually moving the pot during calibration... http://www.djiguys.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1570

You should be using the Tarot software to set your angle from 0 to -90, you should also reverse the motors. Did you calibrate X1 in the naza asst software? I don't believe you'll need to open your TX for that.
 
CarlJ said:
tlr said:
To clarify, I would like the gimbal to range from 0 to -90 degrees.

After some more investigation, I think part of the problem is there's a little bit of play in the lever, but I'm also unable to get the full range of the level mapped to 0 to -90 degrees using any combination of Tarot and Naza settings.

The problem seems to be that Naza's "Servo travel limit" creates dead zones if you don't set min/max to -1000 and 1000 (rather than "scaling" the output) and I can't get the Tarot to map -1000 to 1000 to 0 to -90 degrees.

I'm pretty new to RC so maybe I'm just doing something wrong...

This thread suggests opening the transmitter and manually moving the pot during calibration... http://www.djiguys.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1570

You should be using the Tarot software to set your angle from 0 to -90, you should also reverse the motors. Did you calibrate X1 in the naza asst software? I don't believe you'll need to open your TX for that.

Yes, it was set to 0 to -90, and I've calibrated X1.

I've done some more digging (including with an oscilloscope), and here are the problems:

1) Naza's "servo travel limit" creates dead zones rather than scaling to the full range of the controller. So I need to keep F2's limits at the maximums of -1000 to 1000. This results in pulse width ranging from 1.0ms to approximately 2.0ms, with 1.5ms being the center (at 50Hz)

2) The Tarot always uses 1.5ms pulses for 0 degrees, even if it's set to range from -90 degrees to 0 degrees (so you'd want "center" to be -45 degrees). Then 1.0ms to 1.5ms covers -90 to 0 degrees, but 1.5ms to 2.0ms is a dead zone.

In theory there could be 2 solutions: map -90 to 0 degrees on the Tarot to 1.0ms to 2.0ms, or map the full F2 range from 1.0 to 1.5ms. I don't know which would be considered "correct", but either would work.

Neither of these appear to be possible with the current Tarot or Naza software, which is why people apparently resort to opening their transmitter to trick the calibration. However I tried that as well and couldn't get it to work.

Maybe this will be my excuse to get a Futaba 8FG :)
 
Kelso Kubat said:
if you're going to spend the money why not just buy a zenmuse.... :shock:

At $150 it's less than half the price of the Zenmuse and as far as I can tell performs just as well as the H3-2D.
 
tlr said:
CarlJ said:
Please see the last page of this thread with pictures of my settings. I hope they help.

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=12974

I tried these exact settings (both Naza and Tarot) and still have the same issue. Are you sure there's no dead spot?

Not on mine, it works perfectly. I'm starting to think you might have an issue with the pot on your TX.
 
CarlJ said:
tlr said:
CarlJ said:
Please see the last page of this thread with pictures of my settings. I hope they help.

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=12974

I tried these exact settings (both Naza and Tarot) and still have the same issue. Are you sure there's no dead spot?

Not on mine, it works perfectly. I'm starting to think you might have an issue with the pot on your TX.

How do you have the Tarot wired to the Naza?
 

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