So...amplifiers don't work with lightbridge?

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I have been researching 2.4ghz amplifiers for the P3A. From what I have read, adding an amp does not add any benefit compared to just adding a panel antenna?
Is this correct?
I have read a few posts where it was tested with and without the amplifiers, and there was really no difference. I have a Sunhans amplifier and tried it, but I really didn't notice a difference other than when the video signal dropped, the control signal also immediately did.
Also, apparently one one amplifier is needed on the lightbridge, if at all because of how lightbridge sends and receives on both antennas at super fast rates on the 2.4ghz spectrum...?
Has anyone done any tests like this?

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We've al seen the various posts from pilots who have reported phenomenal ranges with amplifiers. And I'm not doubting them. But the RF link between the RC and AC is a two way process. So boasting the RC signal may mean that the AC can 'hear' you at a greater distance, but does nothing to help the RC hear the AC! You can boast the received signal before it gets to the RC input, but that's a dimenishing return approach. Once the signal get down in the noise (SNR =0), you're just amplifying noise. Ask any ham who has chased DX contacts. At least adding hardware like reflectors can help both ways, increasing the directives of the transmitter and increasing the effective capture area of the antennas on receive.
 
One connection is RX, one is TX. There is definatly improvement in using both better antennas (db gain) and amps.
 
I use three different types of amps. Sunhaus, RF-Linx and a unbranded set. As far as telling which antenna is which, cover one with foil and stand a good distance away from the drone. If the covered one is Video feed, covered it will stop the video picture, if you've covered the control side, you'll see the control signal bars drop.
 
I use three different types of amps. Sunhaus, RF-Linx and a unbranded set. As far as telling which antenna is which, cover one with foil and stand a good distance away from the drone. If the covered one is Video feed, covered it will stop the video picture, if you've covered the control side, you'll see the control signal bars drop.
Ha, I have tried that. They both have the same effect.
I would fly out a good distance and then block the left antenna and lower it. The video would lose a bar or two then suddenly all signal goes to nothing. Same with the right antenna. Video goes down a bar or two first, then everything goes at once.

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I've seen recently somewhere a picture with an RC, both antennas being assigned Rx or Tx. If you hold the RC normally with throttles in front of you, then the right antenna is for Rx, while the left one is for Tx.

Richard R is prefectly right: "At least adding hardware like reflectors can help both ways, increasing the directives of the transmitter and increasing the effective capture area of the antennas on receive."

As a simple and effective antenna mod I'm using since spring 2016 two DVDs in a mount, placed vertically right behind the 2 antennas, each DVD center being alligned with the corresponding antenna rod.
This solution provides enough (passive) signal boosting for 5-6 km long flights, range being always limited by the battery (reaching the sliding H point, where you have to get back home).

I will try to fly using just the right-hand DVD (the Rx antenna). If the range will be the same, then I guess it means only the video lightbridge path (which is just downlink AC->RC) has to be amplified.
 
I have alfa antennas on the controller now. I have ordered another set that are slightly bigger (just because they were on sale). I can get well over three miles with them. But the signal drops and comes back a lot. I wanted to play with the amplifiers to see the results because even going out three miles, I get back with 30-40% battery left, even though the smart return suggests I turn around around two miles out.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=bENINjRIMXlKUGNwVU4xc18tUjJCdTlCTzMxbGhR

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