Sharing your video feed with a bigger screen

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So I have been thinking for a while to get a 32" TV to carry in my car, so when I get a drone gig, I can set up the TV and share my video feed with the client. I know DJI, has something where you can replace a part in your controller and get a HDMI output port, but I don't wish to be tethered to a base station through a HDMI cable. At first I thought tethered was the way to go, but didn't wanted to part ways with $100 to get the part and I looked into various solutions for this, but couldn't get one that worked. So I kept giving it some thought. Last night I was mirroring my tablet to my TV so I could watch a movie I had on the tablet and it hit me! If it works for this, why wouldn't it work for the video feed? On the photo below I am using an Autel Evo but I have confirmed it also works great with DJI, also I am using everything Samsung, so I didn't need any adapter, just a WiFi signal. I also tried it with Chrome-cast and Roku at they both worked as well. The delay on the TV depends on the WiFi signal strength at the time of the broadcast, but it does not affect the video feed on your phone or tablet. (This is my man cave, so please excuse the crude furnishing. When I get home, I will update this post with the photo of the DJI.)
20190306_211429.jpg


So for a future setup, what I am looking for is a 32" 720p TV that has HDMI and USB to connect the Chrome-cast. In addition I want a small router that I can Velcro to the back of the TV, so I can connect both the Chrome-cast and the phone. I always carry an inverter and a power extension cord in my car, so I have the electricity covered. What do you guys think? If you have a better solution, please share that as well. I am open to constructive criticism as well
 
Thats actually an excellent idea. I've thought about buying the hdmi upgrade USB board for my P3P remote but I've read mixed reviews on it. I also have a chromecast and I've mirrored my screen from my smartphone mount on my telescope but never thought of using it for Dji Go.
 
This looks feasible, but I would have one concern. You would need to test this in a real world environment, but in theory it could cause transmission interference at a distance. Being that the wi-fi routers operate on a similar bandwidth, once the aircraft is some distance away, it could cause an issue, either with video transmission and/or control transmission back to the RC. Again, it may or may not. Testing in a real environment with the aircraft far away would tell you. Interesting concept though.
 
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Another possible issue might be, and I'm not sure this applies to all models of chromecast, but I'm pretty sure in my case, if my router loses internet connection, even tho wifi is connected, the chromecast stops working. Easy to test using ur in home setup. Connect everything as you have but disconnect the internet feed to the router and see what happens. Also, I'd still recommend buying a 1080P tv instead of a 720p incase you want to view the files on the AC's sd card in a higher res on the tv.
Edit: now I'm curious. I wonder if its possible to use a 2nd device (a tablet) with both data and wifi as a wifi hotspot and connect both the phone and chromecast to that. I will try it later after work.
 
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This looks feasible, but I would have one concern. You would need to test this in a real world environment, but in theory it could cause transmission interference at a distance. Being that the wi-fi routers operate on a similar bandwidth, once the aircraft is some distance away, it could cause an issue, either with video transmission and/or control transmission back to the RC. Again, it may or may not. Testing in a real environment with the aircraft far away would tell you. Interesting concept though.
I just thought of it last night. I am willing to do real field testing. Just need a Tv portable enough to try it out. Currently doing research on one.

Edit: I use a P4P v2.0. I plan on getting the wifi as 2.4Ghz only and fly 5.8Ghz.
 
Another possible issue might be, and I'm not sure this applies to all models of chromecast, but I'm pretty sure in my case, if my router loses internet connection, even tho wifi is connected, the chromecast stops working. Easy to test using ur in home setup. Connect everything as you have but disconnect the internet feed to the router and see what happens. Also, I'd still recommend buying a 1080P tv instead of a 720p incase you want to view the files on the AC's sd card in a higher res on the tv.
Edit: now I'm curious. I wonder if its possible to use a 2nd device (a tablet) with both data and wifi as a wifi hotspot and connect both the phone and chromecast to that. I will try it later after work.
It can. I used my phone and it worked. Didn't consider the internet issue with the chromecast. Will do more testing.
 
Yes me did this while back with p4,,,display to 32" tv and me tablet at same time,,,worked great and good to view while flying,,,instead of goggles me use hdmi for tv,,,,my power inverter can run 40" tv for up to 4 hours non stop before car needs a start up to charge again but went back to 32,,,,40 was just to big in me car
Screenshot_20190308-071612.jpg
 
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After what @3rdof5 said about Chromecast needing internet to work, I continued doing research on this topic. Well it turns out you only need a laptop. Windows 10 has an app called Connect, that uses the wifi adapter in the laptop as an ad-hoc directly to the tablet. It has a delay of around 1 second. Although not as fast as the Chromecast option, I don't have to carry various things to achieve what I wanted. My laptop's screen is 18", so it's big enough for clients to see what I'm watching.
20190307_192004.jpg
 
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I just thought of it last night. I am willing to do real field testing. Just need a Tv portable enough to try it out. Currently doing research on one.

Edit: I use a P4P v2.0. I plan on getting the wifi as 2.4Ghz only and fly 5.8Ghz.



Do let us know how it worked - Cause I've had the same idea for a while now, but didn't try it for fear of interference! - I'm also flying the P4Pv2


Also what tablet are you using? Would this work on an iPad Pro?

Regards,

Reuben
 
Do let us know how it worked - Cause I've had the same idea for a while now, but didn't try it for fear of interference! - I'm also flying the P4Pv2


Also what tablet are you using? Would this work on an iPad Pro?

Regards,

Reuben
I will be trying the laptop method this weekend, will update. As for the v2.0, it changes frequencies between 2.4ghz and 5.8ghz to prevent any interference, so that is a big plus. I don't expect much range between the laptop and the tablet. Perhaps 20' (6m) at best, so keep that in mind when setting up control center.

I use a Galaxy Tab S4. If you want to use an ipad, I suggest you use the method I mentioned on my first post, but use an Apple Tv instead of a Chromecast.
 
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Good idea except viewing a tv outside is not going to work so well cause the brightness on tv is really bad outside. You need at least 1000 nits for good viewing outside.
 
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I mirror my screen directly to a Fire TV stick (v2), no router needed. It plugs into anything with an HDMI input port. Took my kitchen TV to the backyard, works well as long as the TV is in the shade.

Lately though I use a Lenovo 22" monitor. It has powered USB ports to run the Fire stick with a short cable, so the only 'external' cable needed is power for the monitor. I have a 300w inverter, and made a place to set the monitor up in my work van so it can be viewed from standing outside with minimal glare.

Lag is less than 1 second, but sometimes when I first connect it has about a 5 - 7 second delay so I just power everything off and start over again. Image quality is less than outstanding, but better than nothing!

The Fire TV stick has to be v2 or earlier, later versions won't allow direct connect.
 
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I mirror my screen directly to a Fire TV stick (v2), no router needed. It plugs into anything with an HDMI input port. Took my kitchen TV to the backyard, works well as long as the TV is in the shade.

Lately though I use a Lenovo 22" monitor. It has powered USB ports to run the Fire stick with a short cable, so the only 'external' cable needed is power for the monitor. I have a 300w inverter, and made a place to set the monitor up in my work van so it can be viewed from standing outside.

Lag is less than 1 second, but sometimes when I first connect it has about a 5 - 7 second delay so I just power everything off and start over again. Image quality is less than outstanding, but better than nothing!

The Fire TV stick has to be v2 or earlier, later versions won't allow direct connect.
Thanks for the input. Will buy one to test further.
 
Thanks for the input. Will buy one to test further.

Make sure you get the right version. A quick look on eBay and all the ones I saw have Alexa, even the ones labeled as 2nd generation... i don't think those will work.

I don't really know much about the Fire TV sticks but I think it's a 1st generation v2 you're looking for. I remember seeing them on eBay sometime last year for $10-15
 
Make sure you get the right version. A quick look on eBay and all the ones I saw have Alexa, even the ones labeled as 2nd generation... i don't think those will work.

I don't really know much about the Fire TV sticks but I think it's a 1st generation v2 you're looking for. I remember seeing them on eBay sometime last year for $10-15
It appears that everyone wants those 1st gen sticks. They go for 40+ when you hit buy now. My best bet is to go for an auction.
 
One more thing to consider, I think there's a 1st gen v3, you don't want that one.
 
At some point the firmware changed and no longer allowed direct-connect.

Also, i don't connect the fire stick to my home Wi-Fi anymore, so it won't auto-update the FW.

If you get one let me know, there's an undocumented method of using the remote to get to a direct connect screen
 
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