Phantom 3 Standard range mod , let's do it together...

Ok this is interesting... My TX was increased to 27 without me doing anything here in the US. It was 17 before opening the DJI GO app, after openeing and connecting, it went up to 27...



This first test is all defaults without the DJI GO app running.

/ # iwinfo
wlan0 ESSID: "PHANTOM3_xxxxx"
Access Point: XX:XX:XX:XX:XX:XX
Mode: Master Channel: 2 (2.417 GHz)
Tx-Power: 17 dBm Link Quality: 70/70
Signal: -21 dBm Noise: -95 dBm
Bit Rate: 101.1 MBit/s
Encryption: WPA2 PSK (CCMP)
Type: nl80211 HW Mode(s): 802.11abgn
Hardware: unknown [Generic MAC80211]
TX power offset: unknown
Frequency offset: unknown
Supports VAPs: yes PHY name: phy0

wlan0.sta1 ESSID: unknown
Access Point: 00:00:00:00:00:00
Mode: Master (VLAN) Channel: 2 (2.417 GHz)
Tx-Power: 17 dBm Link Quality: 70/70
Signal: -19 dBm Noise: -95 dBm
Bit Rate: 144.4 MBit/s
Encryption: none
Type: nl80211 HW Mode(s): 802.11abgn
Hardware: unknown [Generic MAC80211]
TX power offset: unknown
Frequency offset: unknown
Supports VAPs: yes PHY name: phy0

/ # iw reg get
country US: DFS-FCC
(2402 - 2472 @ 40), (N/A, 30), (N/A)
(5170 - 5250 @ 80), (N/A, 17), (N/A)
(5250 - 5330 @ 80), (N/A, 23), (0 ms), DFS
(5735 - 5835 @ 80), (N/A, 30), (N/A)
(57240 - 63720 @ 2160), (N/A, 40), (N/A)
/ #

This second test is with all defaults and after the DJI GO app has been opened and connected.

/ # iwinfo
wlan0 ESSID: "PHANTOM3_xxxxx"
Access Point: XX:XX:XX:XX:XX:XX
Mode: Master Channel: 2 (2.417 GHz)
Tx-Power: 27 dBm Link Quality: 70/70
Signal: -23 dBm Noise: -95 dBm
Bit Rate: 87.4 MBit/s
Encryption: WPA2 PSK (CCMP)
Type: nl80211 HW Mode(s): 802.11abgn
Hardware: unknown [Generic MAC80211]
TX power offset: unknown
Frequency offset: unknown
Supports VAPs: yes PHY name: phy0

wlan0.sta1 ESSID: unknown
Access Point: 00:00:00:00:00:00
Mode: Master (VLAN) Channel: 2 (2.417 GHz)
Tx-Power: 27 dBm Link Quality: 70/70
Signal: -11 dBm Noise: -95 dBm
Bit Rate: 104.0 MBit/s
Encryption: none
Type: nl80211 HW Mode(s): 802.11abgn
Hardware: unknown [Generic MAC80211]
TX power offset: unknown
Frequency offset: unknown
Supports VAPs: yes PHY name: phy0

/ # iw reg get
country US: DFS-FCC
(2402 - 2472 @ 40), (N/A, 30), (N/A)
(5170 - 5250 @ 80), (N/A, 17), (N/A)
(5250 - 5330 @ 80), (N/A, 23), (0 ms), DFS
(5735 - 5835 @ 80), (N/A, 30), (N/A)
(57240 - 63720 @ 2160), (N/A, 40), (N/A)

This third test is after running the ver 1.0 of the setchan.sh while having the DJI GO app open.


/ # iwinfo
wlan0 ESSID: "PHANTOM3_xxxxx"
Access Point: XX:XX:XX:XX:XX:XX
Mode: Master Channel: 1 (2.412 GHz)
Tx-Power: 27 dBm Link Quality: 70/70
Signal: -18 dBm Noise: -95 dBm
Bit Rate: 86.7 MBit/s
Encryption: WPA2 PSK (CCMP)
Type: nl80211 HW Mode(s): 802.11abgn
Hardware: unknown [Generic MAC80211]
TX power offset: unknown
Frequency offset: unknown
Supports VAPs: yes PHY name: phy0

wlan0.sta1 ESSID: unknown
Access Point: 00:00:00:00:00:00
Mode: Master (VLAN) Channel: 1 (2.412 GHz)
Tx-Power: 27 dBm Link Quality: 70/70
Signal: -12 dBm Noise: -95 dBm
Bit Rate: 115.6 MBit/s
Encryption: none
Type: nl80211 HW Mode(s): 802.11abgn
Hardware: unknown [Generic MAC80211]
TX power offset: unknown
Frequency offset: unknown
Supports VAPs: yes PHY name: phy0

/ # iw reg get
country BO: DFS-JP
(2402 - 2482 @ 40), (N/A, 30), (N/A)
(5735 - 5835 @ 80), (N/A, 30), (N/A)
/ #
 
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BaDvs3viL said:
So I guess after this test, my question is that the only reason for us here in the US to mod anything would be to just change the wifi channel and nothing else?
Click to expand...

It looks that way. It's good that you won't be in need of running any additional scripts after GPS lock. Stock is the best :D
Avoiding crowded channel will also greatly reduce the latency of the transmission. The effect will be prominent around urban environment.
 
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BaDvs3viL, You have the best setting as standard :)

I'm just thinking...
If someone uses Litchi instead DJI GO in US area the 17 dBm setting is still present and no change to 27 dBm. It's stupid ...
 
Wodzu said:
BaDvs3viL, You have the best setting as standard :)

I'm just thinking...
If someone uses Litchi instead DJI GO in US area the 17 dBm setting is still present and no change to 27 dBm. It's stupid ...
Click to expand...

Actually no, I did the same tests and the Litchi app, once connected, changed me up to 27 dBm as well!
 
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So in the end, the only reason I was able to get more video range was because I was able to use more then wifi channels 2,6, and 11.

Without the setchan.sh, it auto sets me to channel 2 here at my house. My wifi here at my house is on channel 2 as well and I have the TX cranked up on that, which in turn should cause me inference.

When I run setchan, it will put me on channel 1 and it seems to run better.
 
So to confirm 27db is the stock txpower in USA, so its safe to use long term on all P3S's without fear of overheating?
 
I can confirm the testing that BaDvs3vil has done. I had posted similar results back in post #322. I ran the setchan.sh script in my flight tests yesterday but was getting horrible video transmission signal issues on my first flight. I can't remember now if I let it scan and pick the proper channel or if I set it to channel 13 so need to test this again. I have Mikrotik APs and their output power is almost 1 Watt so I'm sure that was causing interference. On my 2nd battery I reset everything and didn't run setchan.sh that time and all ran very well so I'm assuming a different channel was selected. These tests are inconclusive and need to do some additional tests for my location to better understand the behavior.

Now that I think more about it, my Tik AP is hard set to channel 11 (2462 Mhz) with a 20Mhz channel width. Now, channel 13 is 2472 Mhz so I'm wondering if my channel 11 is also interfering with channel 13 given it overlaps with the 20Mhz channel width. I could change my setup to a lower channel and confirm that channel 13 works as expected and rule out any interference with my radios. Does anyone know if channel 14 is an option as well?

List of WLAN channels - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 
So. Just spawning some thoughts here. The changes we, CE-people, make to rcS are to stop the cert_country=1 argument to kick in, trick country and boost db. We can use setchan to trick country and boost (set) db. So that leaves using the rcS to stop cert_country=1.

What does that really do? Anyone knows? Does it stop us from boosting the db higher than 17 disregarding what country code we use? Thats the only thing that I can think about because FCC-people confirms that it starts in 17db and jumps to 27 after GPS is set. Why shouldn't we be able to just jump to 27db with fake country? Can we maybe reload the wifi-driver without the cert_country=1 argument in setchan and then leave rcS untouched?

This is out of my skill and just spawning thoughts here ;)
 
Greggen said:
So. Just spawning some thoughts here. The changes we, CE-people, make to rcS are to stop the cert_country=1 argument to kick in, trick country and boost db. We can use setchan to trick country and boost (set) db. So that leaves using the rcS to stop cert_country=1.

What does that really do? Anyone knows? Does it stop us from boosting the db higher than 17 disregarding what country code we use? Thats the only thing that I can think about because FCC-people confirms that it starts in 17db and jumps to 27 after GPS is set. Why shouldn't we be able to just jump to 27db with fake country? Can we maybe reload the wifi-driver without the cert_country=1 argument in setchan and then leave rcS untouched?

This is out of my skill and just spawning thoughts here ;)
Click to expand...

I think its more then just the GPS getting set. Mine does not boost up to 27 until I ran one of the apps on my phone. I can tell by the lights that I have GPS set on the bird before I launch the apps and still was sitting at 17.
 
BaDvs3viL said:
I think its more then just the GPS getting set. Mine does not boost up to 27 until I ran one of the apps on my phone. I can tell by the lights that I have GPS set on the bird before I launch the apps and still was sitting at 17.
Click to expand...

I'll try to confirm that in my tests tonight as well prior to launching either DJI GO or Litchi.
 
Hi guys,
I just want to be clear with this.
Making 27dbm will increase video link, and setting channel 13 will increase range in obstructed area, is that right?
I had set my rc to 27db old unsafe way. Only thing I noticed is amazing smooth video link, but range was the same as before.
EDIT: I fly around 40 minuttes and did not noticed any overheating i RC.
 
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AngryBird said:
Hi guys,
I just want to be clear with this.
Making 27dbm will increase video link, and setting channel 13 will increase range in obstructed area, is that right?
I had set my rc to 27db old unsafe way. Only thing I noticed is amazing smooth video link, but range was the same as before.
EDIT: I fly around 40 minuttes and did not noticed any overheating i RC.
Click to expand...

That's normal. FCC mod applies to video link, and not 5.8g control signal. About 1km, 5.8g signal will decay same as before. But about the differences is what you already know.

If you want to extend range further, get a useless CD and put it back of the 5.8g antenna and make simple reflector. Simply with this, you can go 30% further enough... or get sunhans 5.8g amplifier :)
 
AngryBird said:
Hi guys,
I just want to be clear with this.
Making 27dbm will increase video link, and setting channel 13 will increase range in obstructed area, is that right?
I had set my rc to 27db old unsafe way. Only thing I noticed is amazing smooth video link, but range was the same as before.
EDIT: I fly around 40 minuttes and did not noticed any overheating i RC.
Click to expand...

I'm the same here. 27dBm
2 batteries = 40-50 min flights. No overheating - yes bit warmer but definitely not overheating. Video link 100% up to 1.5km LOS. Unfortunately control link 5.8Ghz ends at that distance.
 
Ojcze Nasz said:
I'm the same here. 27dBm
2 batteries = 40-50 min flights. No overheating - yes bit warmer but definitely not overheating. Video link 100% up to 1.5km LOS. Unfortunately control link 5.8Ghz ends at that distance.
Click to expand...
Without any booster or windsurfer?
I can get only ~800meters with stock.
 
Ojcze, or anyone else, has this been confirmed working as well on the P3A/P3P/P4? Anyone tried?
 
I live in the back of a subdivision and have a few neighbors with Wifi and am backed up to a wooded area, so don't have great options for LOS without a bunch of trees to interfere. I have an inexpensive windsurfer and my control signal is much stronger now. Even in this environment, my max distances before I lose video is about 1800ft with some LOS at about 350-400ft altitude. Not bad considering I'm completely surrounded by interference. I took it to a lake this past weekend and I got over 2600ft with the windsurfer at about 300ft altitude and I could have kept going a little further. I only wish I would have pushed it a bit more but was my first time in that area. Also, I've gotten these distances with or without channel 13 so I don't think the WiFi is much of a problem in my location compared to the trees.
 
BaDvs3viL said:
I think its more then just the GPS getting set. Mine does not boost up to 27 until I ran one of the apps on my phone. I can tell by the lights that I have GPS set on the bird before I launch the apps and still was sitting at 17.
Click to expand...
Something a bit weird happened to me during my tests last night and not sure if it is a fluke or expected behavior. Before running any script I was to going validate the stock US (FCC) settings and log that info. First of all, my experience was that the drone never got to 27dBM without an application being loaded so that aligns with what was reported above. Also, when I launced Litchi, it never updated either. I had a bit of a problem getting DJI Go App to connect after closing Litchi so I had to reset everything and start over. On next reboot I used DJI Go App and everything was set to 27dBm as expected. So a couple of observations / questions.
1. Is DJI Go App required to fully set the country and GPS settings correctly?
2. Does it work correctly with Litchi or other apps for other users?
3. What is the proper order of power-on devices/apps that is recommended? I had some weirdness with switching between apps once one of them had synced with the RC/Drone and had to reset everything and start over or just power cycle the RC even with the Drone still powered on. That seems to go against power-on order of operations but seemed to work for me.

Does anyone else have any issues switching between apps without having to power cycle everything or is that expected?
 
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