Hotmelt motor wires ESC

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Hoping Burlbark or another master solderer will help me out on this.

I have the new ESC2.1 but I dont like the idea of solid wires either. Rather than solder new ones on which is a bit risky if you are a bit on the clumsy side what about using some hotmelt on the circuit board end over the soldered joints and wire ends?

I love hotmelt it is very flexible.

Once upon a time we had soldered joints failing all the time on industrial joysticks. My solution was to just wrap bare copper wire around the potentiometer connectors and hotmelt them on - lasted years.

Any thoughts?
 
I personally have always liked that idea of having something like hotmelt. I have said before I do not like suggesting to anyone to solder on this part of the quad. Now, if we were to determine that say, this X solder is to be used, with this X soldering iron, and at this X setting for heating purposes, then it would be a different story to suggest changing the wires overall.

But yeah I like the hotmelt idea.
 
Don't think this is going to work. For one thing, these wires heat up. Hot Melt would... melt. Then fall off. Right?
 
Wibble said:
rbhamilton said:
Don't think this is going to work. For one thing, these wires heat up. Hot Melt would... melt. Then fall off. Right?

if they get that hot you have serious problems!

True that....more big problems. If the wires heat up to the point they are going to melt and burn something, then get your hard hat on cause she's getting close to coming down.

rbhamilton, you might be thinking about what went on with the wires when there was non matching parts installed.

I would like for someone to chime in here should there actually be a reason to not use hotmelt. Or if there is a more suitable solution of something to use?
 
I think the answer is electronics grade silicone. Won't melt, somewhat flexible, inexpensive and easy to apply. Only drawback that I know about is you need to wait until it cures.
 
The hot melt glue I use melts at a fairly low temp. I use the cheaper EVA stuff though. Maybe the more expensive stuff would be better. The stuff I use holds only between 30 and 50C. Anything over 60C and it loses all hold and starts to flow. I haven't measured the temp inside the drone but aren't the ESC and wires above that range?
 
As others have said, you don't want to use hot glue if thing are failing because of heat. Silicone or epoxy would be better, but I still think it's a bad idea if heat is causing the problem because you are going to insulate the wire and make it even hotter. If vibrations are the problem (as theorized in other threads, but kind of off topic here), then I suppose glue could help dampen and/or stain relieve the joint. I still wouldn't do it. I agree with mede8er, just solder the **** things.
 
flyNfrank said:
I personally have always liked that idea of having something like hotmelt. I have said before I do not like suggesting to anyone to solder on this part of the quad. Now, if we were to determine that say, this X solder is to be used, with this X soldering iron, and at this X setting for heating purposes, then it would be a different story to suggest changing the wires overall.

But yeah I like the hotmelt idea.

Soldering isn't that complicated and you don't need special recipes to do it. Especially in this case: we are talking about soldering a wire to a PCB.. pretty basic stuff. *However*, soldering is definitely a learned skill and can be almost an art. In that sense, a person with more soldering experience would have a better chance of replacing the wires without causing a short or cold solder or any other problems.
 
100% agree with max. If you are worried find a local stero repair shop and ask to see there work and bring the open phantom with you....

These wires handle current surges (up to 5a), carry the voltage from battery, expose to heat which we don't know yet alone the vibrations and even the harmonics of the 4 motors all operating independently.... threads are even questioning the diameter of wire used

I would never contemplate anything but solder since it is part of the circuit with the less amount of resistance
 
mad in nc said:
If you are worried find a local stero repair shop

Oh for sure! In the mall right between the Radio Shack and the Blockbuster. Oh wait a second... it's 2015. Nevermind.
 
rbhamilton said:
mad in nc said:
If you are worried find a local stero repair shop

Oh for sure! In the mall right between the Radio Shack and the Blockbuster. Oh wait a second... it's 2015. Nevermind.
:lol: :lol:
 
rbhamilton said:
mad in nc said:
If you are worried find a local stero repair shop

Oh for sure! In the mall right between the Radio Shack and the Blockbuster. Oh wait a second... it's 2015. Nevermind.


true - use the Interweb and google to help you. When i typed in vintage TV and stereo repair, ham radios, I found 30 shops in my town of less than 500k people... Granted you might be in BuFu but as there are a bunch of us old guys here on this forum and there are for sure greater number of old farts listening to vinyl, ham radio and stuck in the older stereo days...

good luck!


thought for the day............

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Pass to all 50 yrs. and older & anyone else who could benefit.
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If you’re over 50, you might want to take it easy at first, then do more repetitions as you become more proficient and build stamina. Warning: It may be too strenuous for some.

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That’s enough for the first day.
Great job.
Have a glass of wine or beer.
 
I am quite capable of soldering these - my worry is that I have found that solder will wick up a braided or multicore wire and turn it into a solid one. That is why I have often used hotmelt in the past.
 
Does Hotmelt = Hot Glue ? I'm so confused with the term hot melt when talking about soldering and the ESC.
 
I see an awful lot of talk about soldering in this thread when it started out being about using some type of method for reducing vibration at the soldered area.

So I installed the 2312 motors in place of the stock motors. My quad appeared to of had a esc problem causing it to fall from 237ft. I send it to be replaced by dji for a faulty esc. They tell me I have the yellow mark which crosses a esc problem off for being the reason. They then say there was nothing that pointed to why there was a crash. They appeared to be on lock to not replace the quad, so I saw no reason to spend the afternoon arguing with them while going down a list of possibilities. After the crash I did see two motor wires that were not attached. One of the two wires had a chunk of solder attached to it and the rest of the solder was still on the board. The other wire that was not attached was broken off at the point where it comes in contact with the solder.

If it is true about a yellow mark was indeed on the esc part, that opens the possibility the failure was my fault and would have to be from too much heat at the time of soldering that wire. Nothing else would make sense in my opinion. So if I actually was the culprit, this is why I now would like to focus on reducing vibrations at the point. especially now that I know just how sensitive to heat these wires might be.
 
Wibble said:
RichWest said:
Does Hotmelt = Hot Glue ? I'm so confused with the term hot melt when talking about soldering and the ESC.

Yes it does LOL

OK, thanks....hot glue on a heat source..... :roll: I would suggest an RTV adhesive of some sort...more heat tolerant. But help yourself...
 
Ok, back to vibrations. First off, please don't use something instead of solder altogether. While my personal belief is that these mods are unecessary, using some completey instead of solder a very very bad idea. For those that want to go down this path, and reinforce your solder joints, you want to use an adhesive that is very rigid when it cures. The solder joint is rigid, so you want to match the compliance with your support structure. RTV isn't going to do anything. Something like a 2 part epoxy would be better. Make sure whatever you use is compatible with the materials involved (PCB, wire insulation). I haven't looked at the wires closely, if they're Teflon then adhesion might be an issue (though probably not Teflon if the insulation is melting).

EDIT: sorry guys I misunderstood the problem. Thought the solder was failing. Disregard the above and see the following replies.

Frank, this page might be useful for you:
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-gui ... n-problems
 

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